John G

Does a short rod help in skipping?

FWC agrees with you RW!http://myfwc.com/fishing/freshwater/sites-forecast/ne/farm-13-stick-marsh/

According to Bantam 1, this is not likely. There are still plenty of 50 size Shimano's' out there and I plan on getting another Scorpion XT1000 before they are gone.This is what Bantam 1 said about the 50

I would still get the Citica 200E.

That is good to hear!

A combo that I own is a Loomis MBR844IMX and Shimano Antares HG for T-Rigged worms and craws. A combo that I want is either a NRX854 or MBR844GLX and an Antares HG for T-Rigs.

How would you rate the quality of the cork on your new 844GLX?

There is just something about the Classic look of the Loomis MBR and CR series that I like. Whether it be GLX or IMX, I like the way they look and feel in my hands. One of my latest acquisitions was Loomis MBR843 IMX w/a Weibe reel seat that IIRC, I paid $220.00 on ebay. Sure, I paid a little more than I had to but I don't think the rod was ever used. I think that I got a good deal and I am thrilled. As far as other Loomis models go, I just got a Bronzeback Topwater rod. I got used in new condition but it is a rod that I would have paid full price for. My first Loomis was a CR723 GL3. While it's a nice rod, it was overpriced. Others may have passed the IMX by in performance, but when I buy a rod, aesthetics play a big part. I will take my lowly IMX's over most new rods that to me, are not as aesthetically pleasing, any day of the week.

x2

Mark me down as another buyer of Shimano rods if they go back to cork.

Whatever floats your boat!

I am under the impression that the Mosseyback is in between the GL3 and the IMX.

Yes because it sank so fast. Here is a good Bass Resource video with Aaron Martens talking about knots.

I thought it did. It sank a lot faster than it does with braid or mono.

I may be wrong but isn't the Duncan Knot the same as a Uni Knot? The Pitzen Knot looks like a completely different knot than the Uni. To the OP...Tatsu and a Uni Knot. Wet the knot and slide it down first before you tighten. The last time that I fished a Senko on Fluorocarbon, 15# Tatsu, the Senko sank like a rock! Senkos' will be fished on braid from now on.

I apologize for coming off as finding your situation amusing. As others have already posted, you just got keep cutting line and pulling it out......sometimes little piece by little piece. The best advice that I can someone who is new to casting baitcasters is start off with a heavier weight, like at least 1/2oz heavy. That would also depend on how well your rod loads with a 1/2oz. You may need more. I am not familiar with your reel but in the beginning, adjust your brakes or magnets and your cast control knob to slow your spool down considerably. In the beginning, you need to concern yourself more with your rod motion and release point instead of distance.

I am amused because your posts reads like you are blaming the reel and it can't be your fault because you studied for weeks before attempting to use it.

LMAOWhen you cut the line out, be careful not to scratch up your spool!

DVT is a Site Sponsor and he does a great job for next to nothing IMHO!

Looks like you are having more fun than a human being should be allowed to have!

You might end up as Gator bait if you put on your waders and get into the water in Fl.

Yes

Mike is the man!

If you are able, remove the braid that is on this reel now by using another reel to real it off. Then tighten the drag a little bit on the reel that has the braid and run the braid through the guides on the rod that you want it to be on, and then reel it back on the reel that you want it on. This gets the braid on your real very tight. I usually never have a problem with braid when I do it this way.

There is a not so old saying in the world of archery in regards to carbon arrows, 'if it ain't straight, it's broke? Don't think that that applies here but it sounds good. LOL If I had rods that were 'bent', I would send them back.