I Love BassResource

I finished building a cranking stick a few weeks ago, using the blank below Castaway Blank 903 Details 7'6" Length Line # 8-17 Lure Oz. - 1 3/8 - 3/4 PWR - M Action - Mod Fst Butt Dia. - 0.515 Tip - 5.0 Wt. Oz. - 2.2 Price: $56.00 I used a 12 inch handle, burl cork, skeleton real seat, micros, etc... The finished product cost me about 70 bucks in materials, who knows how much in labor. I really love the final build, its one of the lightest and most sensitive crankin rods I've every used. I bet you could build the rod yourself, if you had the least bit of interest. I've found that building a nice looking, great performing rod isn't hard at all. The elite builders are the guys who can take the same great performing rod, and turn into some serious eye candy.

I vote the TR river. Erie is an incredible fishery, but the TR river consistently produces HUGE smallmouth.

Good Lord man, you forgot to list Jessico White He's WV in a nutshell...

I have a love/hate relationship with spots. I typically catch dink spots around here, but I did hook into a 3lb-/+ spot last summer that fought as hard as a 4-5lb smallie, which was a blast.

The badger flips over and you find a lamprey attached...

Dude, a carrot stick doesn't fully qualify as a real fishing stick. The loss would have been minimal.... Until Bootenrods.com gets going, im gonna have to settle for the E21's You know I'm joking, carrots are pretty nice. 8-)

Dude, a carrot stick doesn't fully qualify as a real fishing stick. The loss would have been minimal....

X2

I'm usually not that dangerous. Usually....

Alright, my form/money are in the mail. I'll be hooking up with SMfisher and driving down early that saturday. Should be a good time!

I like the rod as well

I typically use BYAG, but measuring the thes spool face diameter of the intended reel, should help answer your question. The rule of thumb is to use the smallest guide possible, that can/will perform the task that is being requested. I think your on the right track, just select your butt guide based on your spool face measurement, to start. After that, reduce/increase the size and check for line slap, moving the butt up and down the blank a small degree. For me, experimentation was key to both learning and understanding the interaction of the rod components.

Hey Man! My apologies, I must have skimmed over your comment/question about the turning squares. I have never used one, but my understanding is the same as what you now know. They seem to be more decorative than functional, and not something I've wanted to use as of late. Lance is a super guy and he'll go the extra yard to make sure your happy. Be sure to post pics!

I finish my wraps before ever applying any epoxy. I've never created the epoxy ramp and than wrapped on it/up to it. I created the ramp as part of the final finishing process.

I love split grips. I use skeleton reel seats, so the presence/absence of a foregrip is irrelevant to me as I palm the reel, placing my fingers directly on the blank. Its really personal preference, but IMHO the reduced weight translates into increased sensitivity. You can go to www.rodbuilding.org and do some reading. Lots of good information from people who have been building rods for a very very long time.

I typically place my blank on my drying motor and slowly apply the epoxy with a spatula. As the blank turns the epoxy will spread, and I add/remove as needed, until I have the ramp I desire. I continue to watch the area until the epoxy starts to settle.

Very nice. Now that's what I call custom!

www.swamplandtackle.com They carry batson micros and two piece skeleton reel seats. If you call you'll most likely speak with Lance and he can give you an expert opinion on any questions you may have on ordering. He's an incredible guy to do business with. I determine my butt guide/choke guides using the methods described in Tom Kirkmans book. I typically choose a butt guide thats about half the size of the spool of the reel I intend on using. Lately this has been either a 30 or a 25 at the smallest. I actually prefer the larger 30, I feel its more accomodating allowing smoother and longer casts. My runs usually go something like 30, 18, 12, 3, 3, 3, 3, tiptop If your using micros, the batson or fuji versions are just fine. Models made using titanium cost much more, and the weight savings is practically non existent. I never use a fore grip, for me they're just unecessary and add unwanted weight. Ocean rods are a different story. Be warned tho, the first time you look at the micros on a spinning rod, they do look kinda out of place. IMHO, its the only way to go as the end result is simply awesome. I'm by no means an expert as I'm learning as I go, but if I can be of any assistance, just let me know.

Lol, you'll have to fight AJ over Blaines back pocket

I've been using it for tubes, worms, senko's, etc.. and its pretty sweet.

Hands down, split grip. Weight reduction will typically result in increased sensitivity. There are other factors that may negate this (tip heavy rods, excess guides, poorly placed guides, excess epoxy, incorrect reel seat placement, etc.), but in my experience, reduced weight equates to an increase in sensitivity. Remember we're measuring weight reductions in grams and often ounces, so its subtle gains. A split grip, again in my experience, has little to do with casting distance. If i need to do a two handed launch of a deep diving crank, its just simple to accomplish using a split grip. If you take a rod, that was originally balanced using a full grip design, a direct conversion to split grip "should" require a readjustment of blank components (guides, reel seat, etc). For most folks, I believe its just a resistance to change. Use whatever works for you, because in the end the fish could care less.

I typically shoot for around 10 inches, but the caster above is at 8 inches. Its primarily a spinnerbait/Lipless crank rod, so the I liked the shorter handle for quick underhands, pitching, rollcats, etc.. Thanks Blaine, when I get settled you guys are gonna have to come down!

A few new rods I've put together over the winter. The spinning rods look at bit dirty, as I've been using them the past week. Feel free to send me any comments or suggestions! Thanks! 6'9 Castway XP3, One of my favorite blanks. Incredible light and sensitive. Micro's and Sprial wrapped. 3mm Batson Micro Guide, I tried to show scale. I use these on all rods, both spinning and casting. For spinning rods, I use traditional guides to my choke, and run micros from choke to tip. 7' Castaway XP3 blank. Swimbait or possible C rig rod. 6'6 Batson RX7 7' XP3 Shakey/Drop Shot rod. Very solid back bone on the bottom section of the blank, but lots of action in the tip. 6'6 All Star Blank

All my casting rods, even the 7'6 flippin sticks go 5 4 3's to the tip I've been experimenting with single vs double foot butt guides, and the single seems to works just as well as the double. My spinning rods have been using three transition guides, sizes based on path measurements, with 3m's running to the tip. I've had several people fishing these sets over the past couple of months, with positive results. I created a "traditional" cranking stick the other day that used all micros (3's) placed traditionally on top. While I still prefer a spiral wrap, this rod was remarkably light.

I dunno, I need to shack up with someone if I do. My relocation to Guntersville is still very probable, so if I do move I'm not sure what kind of leave I'll be able to take. I'd love to go though... I understand , i probably wouldnt want another beating from me neither lol nah, next time I'll scale down and catch 8 inch spots as well