bx.versatile

Man, I remember paying $200 plus for that rudder. If you use code SAVINGS it'll take 40% off.

Milfoil weed edges, I do fine with 7-74MH with straight braid or with leader. Matted vegetation in shallow water, I would go with heavy straight braid. Rod recommendations- 7'2 MH Zodias, Expride, 7'3 MHRebellion - Zodias/Expride are more moderate-fast, Rebellion has a faster tip. All have carbon wrapping (Hi-power X, x45 Braiding-X) that provides more power than its rating. I've thrown 2oz glidebaits with zero issues for past 3 years on the 7'2 MH Zodias. Heavy Rods: 7'2 H Zodias or Expride - These rods balance well with high 6oz reels and lighter than most brands MH rods. 7'3 XH Phenix Feather - The best model in the Feather series IMO. It's a bit tip heavy, because it's the lightest rod at 3.8oz. More of heavy power with the moderate action, but I tend to throw frogs on it more, but can do other things well too, did I mention glides before?

I snatched one late last season, so maybe 1 or 2 days with it. First impressions, most compact DC reel ever! I hated how all the DC's were bulky 100-200 size type reels, because they couldn't fit the DC brake. Somehow to they managed it on the SLX DC XT. It looks/feels like a Curado I but much more narrow, like they removed the frame material to fit the MGL III's narrow spool. I think it's close to a 2020 Metanium in terms of palming. I don't have a Curado 70 to compare, but it feels great! Casting feels like any other DC reel I've used, great distance but ease of use. The lightest lure I tested was a Jackall Kaera (it's 3/8 oz, the package claimed 1/2 oz), which my larger frog reels struggles to cast. It casts it fairly well.

Just think of a Tokyo Rig as a short leader drop shot, but you can change weight faster and feel the bottom better. Like all the rigs that have the weight pointing down (Jika, FreeRig, DropShot) tends to drop at more vertical angle compared to using the traditional bullet style weights. Due to this, I feel the baits stays on the bottom better or you can get away with a step down in weight. I've had lot of success using the finesse Tokyo Rig with lighter worms or threading a swim bait through it. You can find couple videos from Wire2Fish with G-Man and Fieder using it.

Just got both my rods and man the rod is crazy light for a glass composite. Weighed on my scale shows 4.3oz. That's lighter than my buddy's NRX+ BJR. Threw an old SS SV on it and the balance point isn't the greatest, it's about 1 1/4 inch above lock nut. But this is the first rod I've felt all that balance point stuff didn't matter. The tip feels crazy light like it's floating. In the end, I'm holding the rod down, but what an under rated lineup and crazy deal on it.

Looks like it's coming. I called earlier, they sent it via a local courier with a weird shipping # and said should be here in a few days. I live like 40 minutes away, so I get it if they use that to reduce costs. Plus, I don't want to deal with more rod tubes lol. I'm in no rush, but just wanted to know if it was cancelled.

My Shop app says it's shipped, but the View Your Order status shows it's confirmed. I called earlier, sounded like they didn't know what the heck happened. Possible 1 rod wasn't in-stock, will get an update from shipping department tomorrow. I'm not optimistic about it and a bit tick I miss out on other rod deals, because I decided to go with these two instead.

Mine is stuck on shipped status with no shipping info. What was your status before it was cancelled?

I switched to using both two years ago and have no regrets. I've noticed I tend to need to adjust positioning and angle when I switch retrieves. Switching to left hand retrieve makes it easier for me to use rod dominant techniques like flipping and jerkbaits. I use right hand retrieve when I need more cranking power. Examples, horsing a fish out of grass mats on a long cast on frog or deep cranking. I do feel less fatigue throughout the day and haven't noticed any downsides besides figuring out if I need a LH/RH on my next bait caster purchase.

@SKFishing Let me help you pull the trigger. ThroneBros has the MH Rebellion for $100 shipped right now. Already picked up both graphite and glass models. Doorbuster! Daiwa Rebellion - Casting (thornebros.com)

Got mine on Monday and what I've been waiting for! A very compact DC reel. It's close to 2020 Metanium in terms of size, maybe a longer nose but width feels about the same.

I personally prefer shorter rods since I fish swimbaits around cover more. And my favorite baits the DRT Tiny Klash and Klash 9 works better with rod twitches. Doing that with a long rod wears me out quick. What I use is the Daiwa Blazon 611H/SB. Rated from 3/8 to 4oz. It's sweetspot are glides in the 2oz range. I've chugged 4oz Klash9 without issues. Here's a secret rod, the 7'2 MH Zodias has the same action and can handle same weights. Both are closer to fast action but I use stretchy mono to compensate. Another option, Shimano released new SLX swimbait rods. They have a 7'3 SB rod rated to 4oz. Looks nice with full grip. I've held the Tatula that's mention above it's light but super ugly. They put an ugly ass foregrip on it.

Sure, like a football jig and swim jig are still jigs. Both excel at different things though. Love fishing the rig off-shore and snapping it hard to lift the plastic off the ground to create the free unweighted fall. I tend to use a lighter wire hook and plastics that have a very slow fall like ribbed baits or hard kicking ones.

It looks like a stupid bait, but the Yozuri Knuckle Ball skips amazing well with a swimbait on it. I've caught plenty fish on it and pick up when I want different look from a vibrating jig and spinner bait. The biggest advantage it has over those two is that it casts a lot further.

It looks like what IKE does on this video, but I don't use the bobber stopper to hold. I just hook it to the plastic to hold it.

Been fishing it more like floating worm with fluorocarbon. I cut off that knot protector tip and use an twistlock weightless hook for better durability. Either I add a nail weight or a treble hook on my twistlock hook and let suspend/slow sink/ and walk it 1-2 feet. It likes lighter twitches on your rod, if you pull too hard it'll just move foward has no walking action.

I have the Gamakatsu Gika Rig in 3/8 it's thin, but a lot longer then expected. It's still great for quick clip on and a little cheaper then tungsten. I've tried the tied on tungsten pencil weight, but find it to break especially with Pikes.

I have the 6'11 MH Posion Adrena Spinning, but no input on the NRX 803s. Its named Power Finesse for a reason. I use it with heavier braid line then traditional spinning setups. I put 30lb braid and have more than enough line on a Tatula 3000 spool. I think the sweet spot is 1/4 - 1/2 ounce for this rod, as it's pretty stiff with a lot of backbone. For techniques I like to use it for. Pretty much all bass finesse style rigs, but heavier weights and regular gauge hooks. Jig worms in Minnesota, we use expose jig heads and run bigger worms like 5inch Senkos. The jig worm is fished on weed edges to be ripped to trigger strikes. I like running heavier drop shots, like 1/4 and 3/8 oz tungsten and tied to Texas rig worms and fish it like a Carolina rig. I feel like traditional drop shot rods are too light for this. Those rods are bending when I'm dragging the bait and it feels under power with all the resistance. It exceeds as a Dark Sleeper rod, my prefer weight is 1/2 oz for Darksleepers. Great dock skipping rod, don't ever need to worry about backlashes, but can skip a 3/8 oz jig or 1/2 oz Dark Sleepers with power to hookset and pull fish away from cover. The best way to describe the action, I'de say it's like a Medium+ fast casting rod bend, but they made it for spinning reels. If you want a softer tip, the Expride 7'2 MH has decent backbone and soft tip like an 872s NRX.

I prefer swim jigs that have a bullet shape and expose 30-45 degree line tie. My personal favorite is the Omega Custom Tackle signature series. I feel it's even more weedless than a Texas rig. Texas rigs tend to un-texpose when you rip the bait out of grass. I found out this year I can fish it like a horny toad, use it for topwater, drop it down on holes and swim through it.

I use the Mustad Fastach on the split ring to quickly change weights or add a wire leader for a dropshot/tokyo rig.

It's the Zillion with AMO spool. I used a borrowed Zillion spool on SS SV like couple months and loved it. It was definitely more versatile and didn't feel choked like the stock spool. For finesse, I've only thrown 1/16 nail with 6" trick worm and throws it pretty well. I decided to get the AMO for SS SV, but it was too wild for my taste. Found a good deal on the Zillion to swap spools around and hoping the Zillion had more powerful magnets. It paid off, though now there's a new finesse reel that was just announced that I want - Alphas SV TW, :x

Nice, I also got the Zillion recently, put the spool on the SS SV and AMO on the Zillion. Casts 1/8 Neko + Z-Man TRD and Hula sticks freaking far. Like further than my 7'6 902 Conquest spinning setup and this is on a 6'8 M Cumara rod.

Same running braid on majority of setups. I find braid minimize the mistakes, since I'm not a statue I can have poor position on footing or angle. You don't need to set has hard to get a hook penetration compare to the clear lines. Plus, like the above MLF video, you can downsize your gear. I don't believe in rods longer than 7'4 now. Most rods over that length are way heavier or tip-heavy even when it's lightweight.

I run 50lb Maxcuatro which is +/- 40lb 4-strand thinness. I have no trouble with line capacity, tried it throwing close to 3/4 oz frogs and it casted very far. Since braid diameter varies from brand, strands, material used (Dyneema(Izanas), Spectra),etc. I think a 30lb braid any strand and brand and you'll be fine. I have the JDM model, but I don't think the spool is different.

Yep, for sure not Ray's spool. Casting 1/32 with Ned Rig casts effortless, but still need to max out brakes and spool tension to drop the bait. I think my brake adjustments were off. I noticed the set plate moved and took apart the brake side plate. It appears the brass screw holder was held by threads on the plastic hole on the side plate. Kind of poor design to hold this. I glued to hopefully hold it, but now I'm not sure how its set from factory. You guys have a pictures of the position of the set plate or #10? It's the white plastic piece that holds the brake rings and clips on to the frame. Maybe even pictures on where the brakes or #11 are suppose to set at 0 on the dial.