Fishing Rhino

C'mon you guys from southeastern, eastern or anywhere else, we're only 12 days plus a bit from April 10. The fishing should be good, but even if it isn't, I'm looking forward to meeting other members from the forum. My buddy, who is a member says he can make it. There may be room for one more. The third spot is tentatively spoken for. Should know in the next couple of days.

In the top photo you seem blissfully unconcerned about JAWS swimming alongside.

Unless I'm mistaken, the large amp breakers are for the main wires which go to all the electrical/electronic systems of a boat. All secondary circuits need to be protected with the appropriate amp fuses or breakers for their purpose. For example, my Humminbird installation instructions say to use a three amp fuse in its circuit. Anything larger will void the warranty.

Hey you Old Crank, what's wrong with a little crank? ;D ;D ;D We all know there's only one "Old Cranky" on this forum. Anything else is a cheap imitation.

I was about to order a couple of the rings, then I thought about these. Save several bucks per ring, and they should do the job. Rubber grommet. The edge can be trimmed to reduce the outside diameter.

I bought a couple of these. They looked like a handy way to keep spools of line at the ready. They quickly became a nuisance. If you only left a short tag end sticking out of the hole, it would retreat when you opened the container. If you left enough so that it didn't do that, it would inevitably get pinched between something and line would get pulled out I tried toothpicks to peg the line and that worked but then you had them snap off when moving gear around. It got to the point where the only line I had ready to go was the 20 pound flouro I use for leaders. As I was organizing my boat before the season starts in earnest, it hit me. Bobber stops, one on the inside and one on the outside. Can leave less than an inch of line protruding, but it will not pull into the box when it's opened. The short length prevents it from getting pinched or somehow snagged. Finally, I'm totally at peace with that item.

I've been busy, prepping my Z7 for the Road Trip and another season. Been cleaning, vacuuming, waxing, etc. I've had the water pump checked and the motor started and given the once over. So, I finally get around to working on the bottom of the boat. I find the keel guard needs replacing. It has worn through where it sits on the concrete ramps. It hasn't reached the fiberglass, but the keel is clearly visible where the skin has worn off the guard. Another eighth of an inch of wear and it will be chewing on the fiberglass. In a week, a new keel guard will be installed. And, knowing what I know now, I will definitely pay attention when it is necessary to ground the boat on a ramp. I will definitely be extremely gentle in the future.

If you, and the other fishermen on that water, are lucky, it will swallow that chunk of plastic and it will block its intestines. You may have killed the beast without knowing it. On the other hand, it may look more like an injured bluegill and net you more fish. Paint its mouth red, and give it a try.

Mooring? Have you ever seen the size of the mooring blocks they use for small boats? They weigh several hundred pounds. Of course, they are designed to stay put in strong running currents/tides and storms. Years ago, some folks used old car engines for mooring anchors. While it's not likely you'll actually need such a secure mooring, you never know. Also, check with your insurance company. There may be something in the fine print about leaving the boat in the water. It all depends on how sheltered the water is at your camp site. If at all practical, I'd consider setting an anchor off the beach, and secure the boat bow to the anchor with another line securing the stern to a tree or secure post. Which type of anchor depends on the type of bottom. If you're trailering your boat, and have any doubts, why not put it on the trailer at the end of the day? Leave it in the water during the day, where you can keep an eye on it and the weather, and haul out each evening. I'd sleep better at night knowing my boat was secure.

I informed my wife that I would not be around the house on the 10th, so I'm planning to make it. I'll have one seat for sure, and two if my regular fishing buddy can't make it.

What are you doing to get the boat ready that takes two hours? Other than charging the batteries, my boat is ready to go when it is backed into its spot in the garage. I check the trailer lights when I hook it up again. Turn on the four ways and the running lights. Get out and take a look. Takes all of a couple of minutes. The boat is one of the few things that I keep well organized. Before I get back to the ramp after fishing, all the gear is stowed in its place and buttoned up, ready for the next excursion. When the boat is backed in, I open the back hatch, and plug in the chargers, one for the trolling motor, and the other for the starting/electronics battery. I always feel the hubs when I arrive at the ramp, and again when I return to make sure they aren't running hot. At least once a month I'll pull the cap and check the wheel bearings. Plenty of grease, no water, put the cap back. When I do that, I also check the air pressure in the tires. I run them at 50 psi. I'll also check the wiring where it passes through the frame for chaffing. If I want to change line or whatever regarding the rods and reels, I'll do it at the first chance. Same with replacing any gear. I also wipe down the boat with a damp towel just before loading it at the ramp. If blood gets on the boat, I'll clean it as soon as I get done taking care of the fish. When I get up in the wee hours, I want to get on the road as quickly as possible. On average from the time I walk out the door of our home, 'til I hit the road takes an average of 15 minutes.

The speedometer is nothing more than a pressure gauge. Water enters the passage at the front edge of the lower unit. It's a hole about 1/16th inch in diameter, maybe a bit bigger. There is a passageway in the motor which connects to a tube which leads to your speedometer. Anything can plug that hole. To clean it, get a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the hole. Then using only your fingers, gently push the drill bit into the hole, twisting it with your fingers at the same time. Make sure you twist it the correct way. Twisting it the wrong way may work debris deeper into the hole. Twisting it the correct way, the drill becomes a small augur, trying to bring the debris out of the hole. If that doesn't work, a mechanic is your next step.

That's a real pizzer of a joke.

Congrats, and God bless.

I hate that term "crank". It's ambiguous. To some, it means the motor won't start. To others, it means the starter doesn't turn it. The term "crank" harkens back to the days when cars did not have battery powered starters, and you had to "crank" them by hand. Whether or not they started was another matter. Cranking them meant trying to start them by spinning the motor manually. On my boat, the motor will turn, but will not start when the safety switch is in th off position. If the starter doesn't spin the motor, it's possibly one of two things. Either the master power switch is off, or the motor is not in neutral. If the motor turns but does not start, remove the lanyard, jiggle the safety switch a few times, put in the run position and try it again. It could be, as suggested, a poor contact/faulty switch. There should be no way you damaged the motor by moving the switch to the stop position while it's running. It kills the ignition by breaking the circuit just like it does when the ignition key is turned off.

SULPHATION In the normal operation of a battery the plates are converted to lead sulphate each time it is discharged. The sulphate takes the form of fine crystals which are easily and completely dissipated on recharging. However, should the plates be allowed to remain in the sulphated condition for a long period, the "temporary sulphate" may be converted to "permanent sulphate" and become impossible to remove. The formation of permanent sulphate is accompanied by the growth of large crystals leading to uneven expansion of the plates and eventual buckling. Short circuits may result if the buckling causes wear and penetration of the separators. "Permanent" Sulphation is caused by: Operating a battery in a low state of charge for lengthy periods. Allowing a battery to stand in a discharged state for a long period. Leaving a charged battery for long periods without regular recharges. Possible Remedy: A sulphated battery may recover by charging at 1 amp for seven days or until specific gravities of the electrolyte have reached maximum and constant values. This state, then indicates the limit of recovery. Note: No benefit will be derived from the use of additives of dopes which neither prevent nor cure sulphation. Insufficient charging will cause permanent sulphation because the temporary sulphate is not completely removed from the plates during recharging allowing the remainder to convert to permanent sulphate. (See Sulphation). http://www.batterycentre.co.za/BatteryCare.htm

Looks like a small basking shark which is a filter feeder. Huge, but definitely not in the Mako, Great White, or Blue Shark category.

or a physical therapist I think a little strengthening would help.. Physical therapists do not diagnose, they treat diagnosed problems. And for the chiropractor, I know someone who was being treated, manipulated, stretched, and adjusted by a chiropractor. When that did no good, they went to a regular physician, who refered them to a specialist. After some tests, it turned out to be a kidney problem. See a regular physician. Let them rule out the serious possibilities first. Chiropractors may help, but they should never be the first option when dealing with undiagnosed back pain.

I got my Mass license at the town hall today. They did say this might be the last year they handle them. It seems the state wants to cut out the middle man. Some towns, as I surmised, quit issuing them since the dollar doesn't cover their costs. They add a dollar to the cost of the license, as permitted by state statute, which does not really cover their cost. Don't know if BPS or anywhere else will be able to issue them. I have got all my out of state licenses on line, and I do believe they all charged a convenience fee, or some such thing.

Whenever anyone tells me they have chronic pain, my standard reply is, "Have you seen a doctor?" Back pain is not always related to the spine. Most of our innards do not have nerves which feel pain, so they "refer" the pain message to nerves which can transmit pain. Neck pain, or pain shooting down an arm can be a symptom of a heart attack. It's not always chest pain. So many things can cause back pain. Poor posture, poor foot support, poor body mechanics, arthritis, disc problems, weak muscles that hold the spine in alignment, etc., etc. If your pain is chronic, and you have not discussed it with a doctor, it's time to get an exam, and find out for sure what is going on.

Stripers can be very finicky indeed. Back around 1970 when we lived on Cape Cod, I was striper fishing in Pleasant Bay (Chatham/Orleans). I was catching one now and again, but one fellow was slaying them. I worked my way closer to get a glimpse of what he was using. When he unhooked one, I got a good look at his bait. It was like nothing I had ever seen before. It was about six inches long, and had a tail which curled up in a "J". I've always remembered that. When I took up fresh water fishing again in 2008, I saw something that looked exactly like what he was using. A Mister Twister. A google search turned up the info that it was in that era that Mister Twister came into the marketplace. I also looked at the website Crestliner recommended. Some of those "eels" bear an amazing resemblance to the Rage Tail Anacondas. One of the common baits around here was sea worms. Most came from Maine, and back then, it was not uncommon to get sea worms that were over a foot long. Bass loved them, but so did a lot of the bait stealers. Eel skins, rigged over an Atom plug were one of the mainstays of the Cuttyhunk charter boats. They'd drill a hole in the front of the plug, remove the hooks, cut a groove around the plug just behind its head, pull the eel skin over the plug, secure it with wire at the groove, put the hooks back on, and they were ready to be trolled behind the boat. The hole in the head of the plug allowed water to pass through and fill the skin. They kept them in jars of brine, so they wouldn't spoil. Several bass could be caught on the same skin.

I'm taking a bit of license here, and going back to my lobstering days. We hauled up all manner of odd things, among them, about six anchors, one very large one, several basking sharks, railings from sunken vessels, countless sinkers, jigs, and assorted fishing rigs when lobstering in areas where the party boats fished. But the winner, which falls into the "What are the odds category?", was a mainsail from a 34 foor Hinkley sailboat. Three days later, when hauling the same gear, in the same area, the sail bag for the sail came up, wrapped around the ground line.

It does seem odd that Nissan would do this, but you apparently heard correctly. This might help. http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/T43605-xterra-wiring.html

I had a similar problem. All the lights on the truck worked, running, brake, 4 way flasher, and turn signals. But one of them did not work on the trailer. Changed bulbs, still did not work. It appears your truck was factory wired for a trailer. If so, it is possible that the trailer lights are on separate circuits, and fused separately. Check your owners manual for the fuses. If the trailer wiring is isolated from the trucks lighting, you should be able to see it in the owner's manual. If you don't have the manual, pull the cover from the fuse box, there is probably a printed diagram indicating which fuse is for what. Look for trailer tail light. That was the problem with my rig.

Some swear by Bow to Stern. It's supposed to be easier, quicker, and better than the traditional cleaners and waxes. Whichever way you go, wash the boat thoroughly to remove any grit and accumulated grime that could damage the finish when you rub/apply whatever product you use. Here's what I use on fiberglass. After washing, I use a cleaner/glaze. It will clean, and also fill any swirl marks. Then I apply a liquid wax, followed by a carnauba paste wax. While the carnauba doesn't make a noticable difference in the luster of the finish, it has a very high UV blocking ability. UV rays can damage unprotected fiberglass gel coats. I've looked at the info on the Bow to Stern, and if memory serves, it also fills minor swirls and protects agains UV rays.