Fishing Rhino

Yes, I built them. This is the second incarnation. The first prototype was fine, but had some minor flaws. The spacing on the forward rack was not correct. Ditto for the larger rack for the butts. The cutouts were a little too close together. I used a piece of 1/2 inch plywood that was hanging around. The new version is made of cabinet grade birch plywood. 1/2" is nine ply. Seven core layers and two veneer layers. Much nicer for this type of job. The other rack could hold eight rods, and the paddle in the center of them. The old forward rack had a straight top, the new version is crowned. It's a cheat to provide a longer surface than straight. It allows for a bit more space between the tips that way. Esthetically it is more pleasing, to me anyway. Took more pains. Used a drill press and a jig to hold the rack so all the dowels lined up nicely. The prototype was done with a hand drill. Looked like it needed an orthodontist. But it worked. The best part is the white cushion for the butts. It is weatherstripping. But it is neat, clean, tough and durable. Got it at Home Depot. It's Frost King EPDM Rubber Weatherseal. 5/8" wide by 5/16" thick. Its ribbed. Will not harden, crack or freeze and retains its shape in sub-zero temps. It's a lot like a gasket on a fridge. Self stick. Peel the tape off the back as you go. I've given it a pretty good tug, and it does not separate from the wood. In fact, when applying it, if it touched a surface it wanted to stay. Several coats of marine polyurethane on the pieces. That way, it cannot absorb moisture which could get to the weatherseal, and perhaps ruin the bond. To protect the rod tips, I used a piece of 3/8" clear plastic tubing. I made a cut lengthwise so it could be slipped over the pegs. Then I marked where each peg was, drilled at the marks, then slipped the tubing over the pegs. A couple of pan head phillips stainless steel screws at each end secured it nicely. Between that screw and the peg on each end, I put another screw, leaving 1/4" between the head and the plastic tubing. Hook a canopy bungee cord on that screw, stretch it across the rods and hook it over the screw on the other end. When transporting the canoe, it prevents them from bouncing out or chattering and getting scuffed. Just prior to launch, I remove the bungee. At the butt end, I have a dowel between and below each rod that is angled downward at the tip. When fishing, I hook a bungee at each end and across the rods. If I tip, it will keep them with the canoe. When traveling, I hook the bungee over every other rod. Makes them very snug in the rack. What might not show in that photo is the cord that goes to the tackle box under the front seat. I use it to pull the tackle box to me, then use the paddle to slide it back. It's the perfect height to stow under the seat, and slide beneath the center thwart. One other thing. What is the front seat as I use it, is really the rear seat. It balances better because the front seat is closer to the center of the canoe. The canoe is pretty near symetrical so it handles just as well. The canoe in that video is 6 to 8 inches wider than the Old Town I have. I capsized mine once last summer. Stupid me, I was poking at something with the paddle and I stretched out over the side of the canoe. Splash. When I fell out, it righted itself, but I had to gather a couple of the tackle boxes, the paddle, and the landing net. Fortunately I was only in about four feet of water. I bailed it out, walked it to shore, got everything organized, boarded it, and continued fishing. That will not happen again.

I have this version. http://www.oldtowncanoe.com/canoes/generalFamily/camper_15.html I really like it, but it does have its limitations. Canoes are best on calm days or in gentle breezes. The wind raises Cain with them. I fish in one. Some like kayaks better, but I prefer the canoe. You can carry more gear and goods. Don't advise standing in it. Nine rods, three tackle boxes, a fish finder, a five gallon bucket to use as a wind anchor, and another holding a ten pound mushroom anchor. The paddle stows to my right, and the landing net to my left. I can do everything without leaving my seat, while I am on the water. As rigged, it's a one man boat. I can remove the rod holders, making it usable for two in a matter of a few minutes. Can't take as many rods then. Great on small bodies of water or fishing sheltered coves and shores of larger ponds and lakes.

OK, I think I've got it. I hope I've got it. I pray I've got it. YES!!!

Great info. Just what I was looking for. Thanks.

A few months ago I posted about my "fishing machine". I had modified my canoe to keep everything instantly accessible from my seat. While the prototype worked well, and exceeded my expectations, there were things about it that could be improved. The spacing on the original rod tip holder was not quite right. The "pockets" on the midship holder for the butts were a little too deep, and a bit too close together. Here is the finished, refined product. http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/?action=view&current=DSC03363.jpg http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/?action=view&current=DSC03362.jpg http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/?action=view&current=DSC03361.jpg http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/?action=view&current=DSC03360.jpg http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/?action=view&current=DSC03359.jpg http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/?action=view&current=DSC03358.jpg

Did you leave the nap on the edges. If so, what gap did you have between panels? My compartment lids are measured out to be approx. 1/8-1/4 inch below the carpeted deck. After I wrap the comp. lids I'll shave the underside right down to a nub. If I leave the pile as it is, the compartment won't close down all the way and it will also be uneven with the deck surface. In any boat recarpet job, if you use 20oz and especially 24 oz, you may find it difficult to open compartment lids due to the pile thickness. This can also be aleviated by shaving the sides of the compartments carpet. Great, that answers my questions. Thanks But it brings up another regarding the carpet. Is heavier always better? Is the carpet on the rolls at Home Depot or Lowes satisfactory, or is there something better? I don't mind paying more as long as the value in durability and quality is worth the extra. What about color? Most of the boats I have seen use gray. I know lighter colors will reflect more glare, and show dirt quickly, but will absorb less radiant heat. Vice versa for dark colors. I'm guessing that medium colors such as gray strike a happy compromise.

Did you leave the nap on the edges. If so, what gap did you have between panels?

I am able to vacuum bag. Have done it on some small parts. Have also done some laminating to foam w/o bagging and haven't had a problem. But, I'm glad you brought it up. Could also use balsa core. The main problem with either is their tendency to wick away the resin, leaving gaps. I've found that rolling on a generous coat of resin prior to applying the mat eliminates that problem. If you lay out the material and wet it thoroughly without regard to the wicking, it will present the problem you mentioned. It will be wet with no visible voids, but those voids will appear during the cure because some of the resin is absorbed into the foam leaving the laminate resin starved. When I first worked with foam, I thought that would not be a problem because it is a closed cell foam. Wrong. I certainly don't want to go through the bagging process. I've got the nylon separation cloth and the material to absorb the excess, but it can be a pain. Thanks for the heads up.

Depends on the weight of the carpet. 16,20 or 24oz carpet has varying thicknesses depending on the manufacturer. You can always use a razor or a set of electric hair trimmers to trim the fabric down to a stub. I've alotted 1/4" on my deck insert carpet redo project. You are quite likely correct about the weight. But, I am going to use a foam core construction with minimum material except in the high wear areas, and where extra strength is needed. Batteries, and other "permanent" equipment such as pumps would mean more weight. The stock car bodies I make weigh in at around 60 pounds, bumper to bumper. If it requires a trailer, that's fine. I suspect the decking would be the bugaboo regarding weight. However, my fiberglass vendor has honeycomb resin panels up to an inch thick that are very light, and as stiff as plywood. They have the added benefit of not absorbing water. I have not used them in my work, and it is possible the cost would be prohibitive. As much as I like the idea of a platform boat, I may be better with a standard configuration with pedestal seats and a carpeted bottom. A question on the carpet to make sure I'm understanding correctly. When the carpet is installed on a panel, the nap on the edges is shaved or trimmed close to the backing. Is that right? I appreciate your input, it has given me much food for thought.

The first order of business for me is to catch fish. I got hooked as a kid with a bamboo pole, no reel, just a line, bobber, hook, and a can of worms. Catching small paddies (bluegill, sunfish, etc.), yellow perch, hornpout or horned pout, was a big deal to a young lad, and a great way to while away the afternoon. My experience on the pond I fish most often is that the dinks will not bother with a 4" Storm Wild Eye or similar swim bait. The same with a chatterfrog, and spinnerbait with a larger trailer such as the five inch Mister Twister grub. Only occasionally do I use the larger size spinnerbaits, opting for the medium size with a larger trailer. Even Mepps number 4 Black Furies seem to reduce the numbers of dinks. Even the number 3 is ok, but anything smaller and the dinks are the order of the day. I would make one suggestion, since there are times when smaller seems better. If there are a few fish within range of your lure, the smaller ones seem to beat the larger fish to the bait. If you haul in a dink, make a few more casts to the same area. Clear the dinks out and who knows, you may find a goodun on the business end of your line. How many times have you seen on a fishing show that a hooked fish is often followed to the boat by a larger one.

Looks like you did a fine job. And that's along the idea of what I want for a deck, except for the open area. I plan to make a hatch that will provide the leg access you have, but will cover it when fishing. I'm likely to stumble into any open compartment. Falling over the side, except in cold weather, doesn't concern me, but taking a header into a recess does. One question. How much of a gap is required to accomodate rolling the carpet over the edges of deck components?

I mentioned some time ago that I was considering building a jon boat out of fiberglass during the offseason. I know the hull will be heavier, and it will cost more than buying an aluminum version. But the finished product may not be much heavier than if I started with an aluminum, new or used. And, I can build it to my precise specs. Starting with a blank sheet will make many things possible. Anyway, here's my thoughts to date. I want a full platform rail to rail, bow to stern, with no obstructions save for motor power outboard and/or trolling motor. A "foot well" with a hinged lid would allow the operator to sit on the deck while controlling a small outboard at the stern. While fishing, the hatch would be closed and flush with the rest of the deck. One or two rod compartments to accomodate rods of 8(?) feet. A live well/bait well somewhere amidships. Compartments for tackle, foul weather gear, cooler, battery(ies), fuel tank, electronics, etc., must be taken into account. I want to build it with the maximum beam that will fit between the wheel wells of a standard pickup truck. Length of twelve feet. Can be slightly longer, if necessary. The hull will be compartmented by stringers and bulkheads with no need for framing. The current plan is to laminate fiberglass mat to both sides of 1/4" foam in 4 by 8 foot sheets. These can be cut to fit the hull and the top edges will support the deck. This, along with the foam core should make for a reasonably light, yet stiff hull. The plan is to use the minimum amount of fiberglass for the hull with extra layers at the chimes, corners, runners on the bottom, and anywhere else that is subject to abuse. Since I work with fiberglass, repairs will be a simple matter. I have a roll of kevlar left over from the race car body business, and I can incorporate that into the hull for extra strength. Two pedestal seats, and flush mount pole holders with covers need to be placed in the platform. Basically, I want it to be a floating raft for fishing, with everything stowed below the deck, but remaining easily accessible. I know several members have modified jon boats into bass boats, and would appreciate input as to sizes for compartments, things to avoid, and ways to streamline and simplify plumbing and wiring. My canoe is great for fishing alone, and in it's place cannot be beat. But I want something that allows me to bring a guest with room for all the gear and equipment, and that can be used on larger water and windier conditions. The canoe is moved around by the wind like a hot air balloon. Regards, Tom

Tom Liggin 67 Westport, MA My favorite, and most productive (makes sense, right?) hole is a private pond in Westport, MA. I have unlimited access and permission to bring a friend whenever I'd like. This pond is what I will gladly share with other members. Great bass fishing. Want panfish to eat. The pond is loaded with white perch, many of them over a pound. Great pickerel fishing at times, with huge pickerel, 30" or larger. That's Devol Pond roughly a quarter mile across and just over a half mile long. Other ponds I fish are Sawdy, just a few hundred yards west of Devol on the Westport/Tiverton border. MA or RI license is legal. Stafford Pond in Tiverton, not ten minutes from Sawdy. Cook Pond in Fall River. South Watuppa with access to the south end of the pond via a friend's property. That's the end most boats run to when there is a tournament. Lake Noquochoke in Dartmouth. Like to meet new folks, try new places, learn new things, and share my experiences with others. 16 foot Old Town canoe. Paddle power. Will throw anything that will catch fish. Favorites include Mepps Black Fury spinners sizes 3 and 4 with red or chartreuse polka dots. Mepps fire tiger with yellow/chartreuse bucktail 3 and 4. Spinnerbaits, Chatterfrogs, Storm swimbaits, Senkos and other plastics, Heddon Zara Super Spook Jr. topwater black. Need to learn Jigs and Crankbaits. Tried 'em, never got a bite. Never done any night fishing on freshwater. Like to try that. Semi-retired. Easy going. Can pretty much accomodate any schedule. Been a foreman in a production woodworking shop, a commercial lobsterman for more than twenty years, and since '95 made fiberglass race car bodies. I generally fish 3 - 5 hours, but can handle longer or shorter excursions. Would like to do some home and home deals. Contact me with a private message or email.

Here's an interesting possibility no one has suggested.. Talk to a lawyer. If you and others have had access to the pond for years, you may have a legal right to continued access. A change of ownership does not necessarily eliminate that right. There are countless stories of folks who have bought waterfront property only to find that because a prior owner granted access, they are powerless to prevent folks from using that access. I'm not sure of the legal term, but for sure it exists. Laws vary from one locale to another, but you may have the legal right to continue accessing the pond.

I got out today, but could only fish close to the north shore. The wind was howling. Caught two decent bass, one went about 4 pounds. Both on Chatterfrogs. But, they were both lethargic, no fight at all. The four pounder took the lure right at the boat. I lifted its head out of the water, and all it did was wiggle a bit. We've had cool weather and a lot of wind so no doubt the water in the shallows had cooled a few degrees. Didn't have the fish finder in the water, so I don't know how much the water temp had dropped. Only fished an hour and a half, or so. Tomorrow is supposed to be a bluebird day with light winds. Winds westerly at six knots or less.

I live in Westport, Mass. They were still biting on Monday. Hope to find out if they still are tomorrow. By the way, I fish a very small pond, one quarter mile at its widest, and just over a half mile long. It's also shallow. Except for three small holes, maybe springs, it's only six to six and a half feet deep. I'm still catching them right along the shore and in water that's three to four feet deep. Most of them have been close to the weed line along the shore, or in what's left of the lily pad beds. In the past week, I've also caught some lunker pickerel about 30 inches in length. My best in this pond was when I was a kid. Pulled a 36 inch pickerel from its depths or shallows. Then put it back after admiring it for a few seconds. That was about forty years ago. Most of the recent fish I have caught have been on a Chatterfrog.

I wouldn't. I use it on a chatterfrog and other lures. It does not stain or discolor the skirt which may be silicone, but it does stain the frog legs. The lure comes with two trailers. One is chartreuse with glitter, and the other is chartreuse in the body, but the legs are solid green. After a half dozen or so spritzes, the once chartreuse legs take on a golden/orangy hue. It actually seems to fish better when the color changes. It may be the color, or a saturation of the scent. Unless you are willing to risk a color change, don't do it. By the way, at least some if not all of those garlic dyes, dips contain acetone. Prolonged exposure to the acetone might cause the plastic to deteriorate.

What? I was thinking more along the lines of a 14 surfcasting rod with dental floss.

I had been looking for some time to find a tackle box that would slide beneath the seats and center thwart of my canoe. I had been carrying my big Plano box, but that necessitated me having to lean forward out of my seat to access its contents. I looked at all the Planos, and other brands, but found nothing that met my requirements until I spied this tackle box at, of all places, WalMart. It's not made in China, Taiwan, or Indonesia. It is made in Israel by Keter Plastics. The brand name is Bait Box, but I could not find it anywhere on the web. The model is Pro Tackle Case. There is another name, ForTools Fishing, also on the label. No luck finding it on the web either. This box sells for just under twenty dollars. It exceeds what I had hoped for as far as capacity and organization. It has a spinnerbait compartment in the bottom, which actually is easy to use. It is an appropriate size compared to others I have seen. You can hang a spinnerbait in every slot without having to finagle things into place. The large compartment on top can hold a reel if so desired, but is large enough to hold a small first aid kit, forceps, knives, pliers, scale, hook extractors, and anything else you are likely to want quick access to. To the side of this compartment is another section that can hold several lures, jigs, of varying sizes. The amber transparent top has ridges which prevent the surface from getting marred when it is slid under snug places. The bottom compartment houses the aforementioned spinnerbait compartment, and three organizers which can be configured to suit just about any purpose. There is a space for a fourth organizer, but it is also large enough to hold an ample assortment of plastic worms, grubs, creature baits, etc. The carrying handle is on the front, and the back has four "feet" so it can be transported or stored on the back side. It seems to be sturdier than the Planos or Flambeaus. Time will tell. Take a look, see what you think. Keep in mind, $20.00 http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/fishing/Picture077.jpg http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/fishing/Picture076.jpg http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/fishing/Picture078.jpg http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/fishing/Picture079.jpg edit: It's size is 20 x 10 x 10, approx.

That's exactly how I like my women. Dumb and easy to catch. LOL. Reminds me of the story about a beautiful woman and her husband who thought she was dumb. He asked her, if God doesn't make a mistake, why would he make a woman as beautiful as she was, so dumb? The answer, she said, was easy. God made her beautiful so he could love her, and God made her dumb so she could love him.

Can anyone top this? I have caught many of these on a line. I did not then, nor do I now have a scale with the capacity to weigh one of these. http://forgetomori.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/09/baskingsharkpseudoplesiosaur32qhgjksa.jpg

You are right, what with Christmas and the holidays right around the corner. Maybe someone's LED visor will blow into it for lighting.

I've been using the Chatterfrog quite a bit lately. I've had no trouble with the hooks. The snap is another matter. It will open from time to time. Whether it happens when it snags a rock, or catches a fish, I'm not sure. But I started looking at the snap after every few casts. In three hours of fishing, it opened somehow, three times. The fix was easy. I bent the catch over with needle nose pliers so it could not open. I did lose one lure when the baitcaster backlashed. The line stopped, the lure kept going. When I cleared the tangle and reeled the line in, the snap was still there, open and bent straight. Since the snap is not used for changing lures, I have taken the precaution of bending the end over. No more snap problems. All that being said, I am partial to Strike King products. I will have to check out the "pure poison".

Are you fishing it in the shallows along the shore or weed line, or in deeper water. What type of bottom are you running it over, rocky, grassy, combination, etc. Do you use it for most of your fishing, or do you work with other baits as well? My favorite for the present is a Chatterfrog, followed by a spinnerbait, then a Mepps spinner. I do mix it up, just in case. One constant, I spritz 'em all with the Yum LPT crawfish scented/flavored attractant. I tried it, and had good success. I don't know if I would have caught the same w/o it, but don't want to take the gamble. Maybe it's superstition as much as anything. If you always seem to catch 'em when you wear a red plaid shirt, guess what? Chances are you won't leave home w/o your red plaid shirt.