airborne_angler

I learned the hard way to never anchor off the stern. I did once with a jon boat and the anchor got stuck, I pulled and pulled and pulled, each time the corner would dip into the water. Eventually the boat got swamped and I had to swim to shore. I salvaged it but I also lost/damaged a lot of equipment. Years ago there were some college athletes in the Gulf of Mexico iirc. The anchor off the bow got stuck. They turned the boat to hook the anchor line to the stern so they could use the engine of the boat to pull the anchor free. That method pulled the stern of the down and swamped it and iirc there was only one survivor.

So I just swapped the battery for a 27DC (101amp hours, 180 reserve capacity) manufactured 12/12. As far as size goes...its the ONLY deep cycle they had...everything else was Dual Purpose...do this is what I have to work with...hope its adequate...

There are some days where I barely limp into the boat ramp. I stay out all day but the lake is windy on a regular basis, so I gotta factor all that in. I'm only really on the motor a lot when I'm trying to get back to the ramp.Otherwise I'm just making minor adjustments. So...its my understanding that: This battery is incorrect for my application. I want a straight "Deep Cycle" battery. The one I have is a dual purpose and is used for starting a gas engine and can be used for trolling purposes but won't be optimum in my application. This battery I have purchased is over a year old so I may not get the full life expectancy out of it. Since it was already 1/2 discharged on the shelf, it likely won't last very long. I should look for something no older than 3 months old Did I understand all this correctly? Did I miss anything What group size is recommended for my application? Should I just get the largest deep cycle available?

So what battery do you suggest? Group size and such

I have a 12 ft jon boat with a 50# trolling motor which this battery is being used for.

So lets say that my charger says the battery is 100% and the only thing I have done is charge it, should I now take it back to where I bought it and have it tested to see just where it stands? Will a place that tests car batteries like Autozone (where I bought the battery) be able to do the test? Is the test procedure the same on deep cycle batteries as it is on automotive batteries or is the load test on a deep cycle a specific special test?

I've got a Schumacher Ship N Shore "smart" charger with auto shut off when full charged.. Its got a volt meter/capacity indicator built in. When I hooked the charger up, it read 50% . I've currently got it on the charger running at 10amps and its taking forever. Its been charging for like 4 hours and its up to 86%.

So the battery I just bought is a group size 29 (dual purpose) with a date tag of 2/12 on it. So its safe to say its been sitting on the shelf for a bit. Its brand new so I should just be able to put it in and go...right? I would like to put a charger on it just to make sure its at its absolute max charge. I have a smart charger with settings for small, medium and large batteries and 15amp, 10amp and 2amp settings. I've heard if you charge one of these batteries incorrectly, it can ruin the integrity of the battery and its ability to hold a charge...true or false? To bring it up to max charge right now (top it off) what amp setting should I use? And also after a long day at the lake, what setting should I use to bring it back up to a full recharge.

Wondering about putting a jig trailer combo together. The jig is a 1/4oz Strike King Bitsy Bug in a eith a dark brown skirt. It looks black but in the light it appears more dark chocolate brown(for arguments sake well say the skirt is black.) I'd like to pair this with a Green Pumpkin Baby Rage Craw. As far as natural goes, would it be safe to say these colors compliment each other? Would the Baby Rage Craw be too large an offering on this jig, should I trim it down?

I have a 12 ft jon boat I fish out of. I need to purchase a battery. Found a Marine Dual Purpose with a reserve capacity of 210... it was the biggest battery available. Is this battery adequate for a 50# thrust TM. What does the dual purpose mean?

So it would appear that the Wiggle Wart I picked up is an original as it says "Wiggle Wart" on the underside of the lip...cool.Thanks for the info everyone.

I mean also think of it this way. Perhaps an angler has a specific bait he used coming up but it has been discontinued. Now the company puts it back on the market and he wants to use his old "Go To". Manns Jelly worm comes to mind...

You sure?...not trying to start a p*ssing contest...

Picked up what I'm assuming to be an older model Quantum Iron IR400CX. There's little info on specifications for this reel online. Anyone know anything about this model(specification wise, year of manufacture) and its strong and weak points?

So I went to the swap meet today and came across some assorted crankbaits. One of em was a Storm Wiggle Wart. It looked vintage (chrome hooks) and just general appearance made it look like it had been riding in a tacklebox for many moons.Was in great overall condition just needs a cleaning from minor rust stains. Paid $2 for it. How can you tell the difference between the originals (pre Rapala) and the current versions? Also picked up a Storm Thinfin Hot and Tot...I always thought the Thin Fin and Hot and Tot were 2 seperate lures...

So you always hear about KVD, IKE, SWINDLE and all the others plugging thier sponsors. This makes me wonder...if a professional angler is sponsored by lets say Strike King...like KVD...is he obligated to only fish products from Strike King? For instance KVD is throwing a Strike King bait and hears IKE is tearing em up on a Scatter Rap by Rapala...can KVD fish a Rapala bait even though he's not sponsored by them?

I fished an XRap I picked up on clearance a few summers ago. Air temp was at least 100 and water in this pond was crazy muddy. I tore up some fish on that bait that summer including at least 2 fish that went 4#s. Haven't been able to get back into it though.Love how the fish just latch on when the bait is paused and you really never know it until you begin your retrieve again.

Looks like puddle jumper

Years ago I turned my nose up at these. I had a bunch and sold them on Ebay.Even picked some up on clearance for next to nothing not too long ago and sold them too. Now I really wish I hadnt. I recently discovered a youtube video where a guy modified these. Haven't tried it yet but looks promising. I have some of the large sized versions of these made by Madman. Today I tested it out on a Neko Rig. I screwed a weight into the flat spot on the tail and skin hooked the body. This bait rigged like this will hold a defensive posture(claws up) as long as you maintain tension on the line. Very little movement on the line will make the antennae and claws quiver. It appears to always run true rigged like this. On the fall it doesn't appear too realistic, but once on the bottom, GAME ON!!!(or so it appeared in my 55 gal fish tank)

I heard that Ike made his start fishing tourneys out of a jon boat, look where hes at now......

Sam, what you are describing sounds like a dropshot, which I love to use...now if I use the Shakeyhead jighead as my sinker...I may just be on to something...thanks for enlightening me and giving food for thought...

I absolutely love to throw a dropshot...so shakey head should be a great alternative

I have a 7' Shimano Medium action rod but for some reason the rod by itself feels like it weighs a ton...

So I have rediscovered a box of vintage baits I had stashed away with some baits that would likely be killer for a shakeyhead. I'm wanting to put together a combo to learn on. Is there a bare minimum length rod and type reel I should use? I've got a bunch of different combos I can mix and match components with. The current shakey head combo I have rigged up is a 6' medium action spinning rod with a "4-6-8-10" rated 200 series Shimano reel...spooled with 15# braid and an 8# FC leader with a 3/16oz Strike King Shakeyhead To get me started with this technique would this combo be adequate or should the rod be longer?

I TOTALLY get it now. I continued to mess with the Manns Jelly Worms snd others in this box (Original Fliptail, HOBO, and Fintail, Rebel ring style straight tail worms) All the worms mentioned look AWESOME on a 3/16 Strike King Shakey Head, so much action with very little effort.. I have a juvenile Green Sunfish in the tank and he showed approval by taking a hold of the tail of a Fintail worm and swimming off with it when I rigged it on a dropshot and let it just suspend in the water with minor twitches imparted with my fingers. I think I may have just found a Treasure Trove of baits. I paid very little for this box of worms and it was advertized as "Leftovers" .When I first got these I wrote them off too, just like the previous owner did..These must be old...they stink like an old musty attic. Wonder if the fish would care about the musty scent...my Green Sunfish didn't seem to mind, but this is a Green Sunfish were talking about...Megastrike or JJ's might be in order.