SirSnookalot

Nice snapper ! For some of the landlocked fishermen, fall storms push the mutton snapper inshore, they can be caught off jetties and piers then.

There are a number of on line sites that can be used to post pictures. When I sign in to Tiny Pic the edit feature doesn't seem to be there anymore, the mobile app no longer works to upload from your phone and I can only upload from file not a url. Tiny Pic used to be my favorite and it worked great. I do believe they are owned and operated by Photobucket now. I have switched over to IMGUR, does all of the functions that I can't do with Tiny Pic anymore, Photobucket is full function too, I'm sure there others that work as well that I haven't tried. On BR there is always the option of attaching a pic from your PC, you may have to resize it.

I ran into some one yesterday with a brand new HTC one m8, the picture quality and display blew me a way. Galaxy 5 is pretty darn nice too.

Don't know about Miami but the peacock bite seems to be slowing down. Have only spotted a few and couldn't coax a strike over the last week. Caught 3 nice snook yesterday morning.

Freshwater fish hit saltwater lures and saltwater fish hit freshwater lures. There is major difference in the way the lures are made, saltwater are built more durable have have stronger hooks that won't corrode as fast. As far as catching fish it doesn't make a difference. I have caught snook on just about every freshwater presentation including senkos.

Probably true. One would think the more they spend the better the rod should be and should last longer. IMO if a company does not warrant a rod for life they don't have that much faith in it either, why should I? Question is, how have the rods broken? A rod shouldn't break due to catching a fish, they can break by lifting too big a fish out of the water, which is user error, which I've done myself. I have never broken a rod with a fish on the line, I've caught 150# fish on a 25 lb rod which cost me 60 bucks ( Penn Pursuit) had that rod for a few years until I gave it to a friend. That rod would have broken without using the drag properly which brings user error into play again. Personally I don't care how sensitive a rod is or how much it cost, if it breaks with a fish on with no mishandling, that rod really is a piece of..............I'll be nice and just say it's something I wouldn't buy.

My printers which aren't used too often seem to last me about 2 years, have tried several brands. The printer I have now works just fine except it always losing it's wireless network connection. Changed the ip address, gateway, fix didn't last long. Spent 2 hours with customer service, problem fixed.............for a while, lol. What I have to do is turn off the printer then turn it back on, that seems to reset the network ip.

What I said was I can and do throw lures where my rod is underloaded, but not for distance. On that rod with the low end being 3/8 I've used 1/8 and 1/4 many times but I only cast along a sea wall or 20' or so into the swash. On the opposite end I toss 1 ounce or 1.25, that rod is rated a max of 3/4, this is a med spinning rod. The fish in my avatar was caught on it, at the time I was using a 1 ounce metal swim jig. I've had this rod and 4 others in various lengths and powers for 8-10 years, they are as perfect as the day I bought them and they all cast beautifully. In a previous post on this thread it was stated light lures are for light fish, oh really? My most used bucktail jigs are 1/4 and 1/2 oz, not only do I catch snook and tarpon on them but I have caught many very sizable bass on the same exact ones I use in saltwater. It isn't always the weight of the lure, it's the profile. I'm making my own 1/8 oz jigs for peacock bass, some are about 4" in length others are much shorter.

I see Walmart snap swivels and barrel swivels used all the time down here, most of the time the people aren't casting lures, I have no explanation as why they use a snap swivel. I have seen 1 break in all the time I've been down here, someone using a small one for small fish and gets hit by a good sized tarpon. I do use a snap swivel in only one presentation, not even closely related to bass or even inshore fishing, 45# sampo with a crosslock snap, it has never failed for my barracuda fishing, only used with surgical tubes. For typical cast and retrieve a snap swivel or even just a duolock on occasion get tangled on the lure, they can pick up vegetation and muck, just not a clean set up. I use the loopknot for all lures except jig heads and jigs which I use an ordinary clinch. I don't ever worry about knot failure, that doesn't mean it doesn't happen once in a while.

As many here my dad taught me how to fish when I was little shaver. We went every weekend, even the the times when he went with some of his buddies on charter I always went along. He actually is the person that taught me to saltwater fish, irony was he never fished saltwater except on vacation on charter. He just knew how to catch fish. There isn't a day that goes by that I don't think of him when I'm fishing. When I have a fish on the line I keep hearing the same words he used to say " that one gave ya great fight", at the time it was probably a bluegill, lol. He passed away in 1992, @77 years old.

There are ball bearing ones made which are better quality, even the cheap ones with a barrel swivel probably won't break, but they are cumbersome. Only fishing with or without the hardware will give an answer if there is a strike difference, my opinion is probably not. I personally tie a loopknot for lures.

Not trying to convince anyone, just saying why I much prefer spinning. I am glad of this, I don't deal with backlashes, line digging in, or setting brakes.

IMO you do not want to cast on top or them, the lure needs to be casted away from them and reeled back into the zone. All kinds of fish get spooked when a lure plops on the water, one reason fly fisherman are sometimes very successful. A problem using live bait like worms is the bluegill will peck you to death. The mentioned inline spinner is a very good option.

You will never convince a b/c user that spinning isn't as good if not better, conversely you won't convince me that a b/c is better. I use nothing but spinning. These words finesse and power are not in my fishing vocabulary, I put a lure on and work it the way I want to. With a spinning set up the rod dictates the lure weight, with most b/c enough weight is needed to cast, line just comes off a fixed spool on the spinner, it can't be easier. Spinning gives me versatility, I can both underload or overload my rod and be effective. Just an example of 1 set up which is one of my most used, a med spinning rod I can and do throw 1/8 bucktails, the objective is only to cast 20 feet or so because that's where I'm looking for the fish. When I need distance I can and do overload to an ounce or more and get plenty of distance. In the middle I can and do throw weightless flukes. This set up enables me to catch 1 # fish or 30# fish, I've done both. In the event where I'm dealing with some heavier vegetation I may jump up to a mh spinning rod but my lures are not changing. I do not have to change hands after my cast, my hand is always on the foregrip giving me both more hooksetting leverage as well as more leverage handling the fish. I can cast with 2 hands or 1, underhand, side arm, pitch under docks, that pretty much covers it for me. Last but not least I'm always working the lure with my power arm, spinning is a total win for me, wouldn't even consider using a b/c.

Makes sense to me. I don't use b/c but I did put a 4000 handle on a 2000 spinning reel. The extra leverage has been very beneficial especially handling these 15# fish. Took my reel from being nice reel to elevating to a great reel.

Wouldn't own a rod without a foregrip.

Never saw that before. That does look like a moc to me.

After being bored out of my mind reading about the merits and disadvantages of F/C line which I don't use any way, I decided to read some reel reviews. Reviews are very mixed, one reason I normally pay little attention to them. One person loves the battle, another says they corrode while a third says they have corrected that issue. I read a review by a charter captain that swears the conflict is the best reel Penn makes. You are going to read reviews declaring nothing better than a Shimano spheros or Quantum boca in this price range, I've owned most of them and I'm confused just typing this out. Any time I see the word "best" that's a review I find suspect, I don't think best exists. If you want technical info ask 0119, he has a good handle on that stuff, me I just catch fish. I don't recommend specifics, I could come up with reels not even mentioned that are very good too. Your money your decision.

Don't know why I'd want to, that would be limiting myself. Even if I only targeted 1 species on one body of water, the vegetation isn't the same ever day. I'll play along and this I have done quite a few times. Fishing a mh 7' spinning rod with a 4000 reel using 20# braid and 1/2 oz hair jig I'll start off fishing a sea wall for snook and juvenile tarpon. At sunrise move over to the beach and fish for jack crevelles and bluefish. Leave the ocean and head inland, stop by a pond and do some peacock fishing, then hit a canal for LMB. I actually did all of that this morning, but I had 3 rods and changed lures.

IMO can't go wrong with Penn. Not sure what size you are looking for but I would try and match it to the rod, match the rod to the most common place you'll be fishing. Maybe a heavy for a pier, fishing closer to the water maybe a mh. I happen have a conquer myself, nice reel in the $200 range.

If the improved clinch hasn't failed until now it sounds like it's a line issue, I've used slick with the improved clinch without incident. This is what I do, I actually saw it on a saltwater fishing show and it worked to perfection. I tie my improved clinch with 7 wraps the feed it thru the large loop, before cinching it I wrap thru the loop a second time then cinch it down. My 20# braid has landed many fish upwards of 50# or more without slipping ever, I use the knot the same way for freshwater. I probably have not used the palomar more than 5 times in the last 10 years.

This is a b/c not spinning, not a reel to use unless one is proficient in using a reel without a level wind or brake adjustment. They are popular but not a reel for a novice. The poster is looking to spend a top price of $150, yet suggestions are made for Cabos, Van Staals and Saltists. With all due respect to the poster if he were more experienced he wouldn't have to ask what to buy, he'd already know, IMO the Battle isn't a bad choice. I'm not a part time saltwater fisherman, I fish the salt 7 days a week 12 months of the year. As I mentioned on another thread about this same topic I'd get some local knowledge first. Not only am I member here but I'm a member of saltwater forums as well. On one my boards there have been a grand total of 3 posts about tackle in the last few weeks, they pertained to rod building not purchasing anything. On another large forum once again it's about rod building and reel repair, not so much purchasing. I don't know if the saltwater angler is too stupid or doesn't care about equipment or they are already smart enough to know what they want. But I do know this, I have seldom had anyone come up to me to check out my gear or even ask me what kind of line I'm using. We have people fishing the most top of the line equipment along side the Battle and Ugly Stick users) probably the most common set up here), they all catch fish. I do feel equipment should be suited for the environment, in this case a reel designed for saltwater use, that doesn't mean a high price tag is needed.

I must not be a serious fishermen then, I don't carry a scale for any kind of fishing. I do fish everyday, make my own lures for some of my target species, fish inshore salt and offshore ocean, then do bass fishing in the afternoons. Am I curious sometimes, you bet and if a scale happens to be around I may have a fish weighed, it sure won't be a 25" fish. I've posted my fair share of pictures, in reality it's a small fraction of what I catch. Many of my fish are caught early morning with no one around to snap a photo, in the case of a 40" tarpon for example it's illegal to take them out of the water even for a photo op. Just because I don't carry a scale, tripod for a camera, log every 15" fish I catch doesn't diminish my seriousness in catching fish. It's a matter of personal priorities not level of seriousness, I don't care if a fish weighed 9.9 or 10.001, it's just a number. Milestones and PB mean very little to me, all that matters to me is the thrill at that moment, and I'm serious about that.

When we had the 23" a couple of the ponds over filled across streets into some of the homes, I was on high ground so I was fine, but I couldn't drive out of the community. Some of the nearby communities had water so high it was up to the door handles of cars, my friend had her car totaled out by the insurance co. I hope people have flood insurance, homeowners may not cover it. I would suggest getting a mold inspection. Last Sept. my water tank ruptured, not being an act of god insurance paid the claim which was about 25k. I was amazed how much water gets soaked up into the drywall, it's like a sponge. The water had spread to areas where the floor was not flooded. That nightmare took 3 months of restoration.

Is it possible to agree 10,000%? This distance thing is really whacked out of shape. Sure there are fish that are in constant movement following bait and distance is a benefit, bass are not one of them. Your target spot is what matters. I've never been convinced using F/C catches more fish, if it's a matter or stealth or abrasion I would go the leader route.