SirSnookalot

Made in America may only mean assembled here, parts can come from any where. Anyone ever remember seeing this: Made in USA..........no not our U.S.A but USA, Japan from imports back in the 50's. It's all in the fine print.

Been wearing glasses most of my life and for the last 20 some odd years progressive lenses. Sometimes prescription glasses are not made quite right the first time, especially if one is delicate to the axis as I am. From experience buying on line is a choice I would never make again, your eyes need to be measured, pupil measurement, and then the frames adjusted properly. For fishing I wear cocoon flip ups, the fit-overs are good too, I'd put a lanyard on them. Polarizing is just a coating and it isn't good for everything, I can't see LCD displays in my car for example. For everyday non fishing use I either wear non polarized prescription sunglasses or transition lenses, which I really like.

His present outfit is certainly not conducive for bass fishing, it's more trouble than it's worth. Considering this is a beginner and who knows how long he will keep his interest I would start him real easy and the best way to get results. A Walmart spinning combo for 20-$30 pre-rigged with 8# mono, 2-3/0 worm hooks and a bag of senko type worms, no need for anything else to avoid any confusion. Show him how to tie a proper knot and when he gets the bite how to set the hook. I personally would take more time in giving some instruction rather than fishing myself, if you are not prepared to do that, don't get involved at all. I would avoid a b/c at all costs, teaching him how to get the backlashes out is going to take away from his learning experience.

One thing I'd like to see done here in my part of Florida is better traffic control. We have a lot of traffic lights and the wait time on the red is excessive IMO. A better system that allowed less idle time would probably save gasoline. We do have quite a bit of traffic, but measures could be easily put in place in non peak driving times, like night and early morning.

Just the way it is sometimes, I've been experiencing the very same thing for the last 2 weeks. I don't fish beds, don't use EWG hooks and as Oldplug said I know some of them have been gars. They are just not overly aggressively and have just been letting go of the bait. I'm not reading anymore into it than what it is, I can't fish exposed hooks and I do not care to worm fish. I'll deal with it, as with everything they will be back on again.

Short answer........NO. I own 3 supremes not the xt, 1 was used in saltwater for nearly 2 years no issues at all and all of them are about 4 years old and are perfect. I also own a medalist and an arbor strictly used in saltwater again with no issues and no Pflueger I have ever owned needed any kind of repair or service. I do own Daiwa, Abu, Shimano, Quantum and Penn all of them have seen the repair shop. I don't recommend or endorse anything, but this has been my track record.

It's all about one's own personal experiences. I fish braid almost exclusively in both fresh and saltwater, from shore, from boat and in all types of environments and I do it almost everyday. As Scott F says braid is not perfect and no line is, it's just my preference. IMO there are a lot of negatives to braid, none of them keep me from using it, I change it when needed and that's pretty often. Abrasion not being one of the negatives for me, I've had both braid and mono severed almost identically from cement pylons, barnacles, coral reefs, trim tabs, boat motors and toothy critters where steel won't get you too many bites. In freshwater I've been cut off on rocks, stumps, and floating debris, this is the price everyone pays to fish. What one uses is strictly a choice and use what works best for you.

In 50 years on the road there have been accidents, it's always worked pretty simple with no fault insurance. My insurance company paid my damage and if the other party was at fault my deductible was waived and the insurance company settled with the other insurance company. As far as a rental car, there are terms in my policy of what the insurance company will pay for, anything up and above that is up to me to cover the difference. Agents write a policy and can be helpful when submitting a claim, but they make no decisions, it's up to the adjuster and the terms of the policy, it's a contract.

I wouldn't accuse any one of lying, but I would say there is a lack of communication some place. Insurance companies due a lot of processing and Doctors handle a lot of patients, mistakes do happen. I have my own surgery planned in about 10 days, thought everything was ok, only to get a phone call saying it wasn't. Luckily the Dr's office cleared up the matter with a phone call to the insurance company, I then verified with both parties.

I posted my results a few days ago after about a months use and using it nearly every day. With all due respect opinions and reviews sometimes are given from limited use and may not tell all of the story. Loved the 20# on my 5000 spinning reel at first but as time went on I was getting a lot line twist, as I would with any other line. As the twist continued the coating was breaking off from the end up to about 2' or so, an ugly and uncomfortable feeling so it's been replaced. In fairness I'm using this line with a specific lure type, nothing anyone would use for bass fishing. The 12# supercast has been on a smaller spinning reel using primarily weightless flukes for about a month's use and also used mostly everyday. Taking extra in not allowing the fluke to turn over too much I've kept the twist down pretty good and the line has performed well. With some braids even on light spinning I've had a little bit of "dig in", nothing ever to be concerned about, but this line had no dig in at all. Would I buy the line again?.........I already did and I received some 20# yesterday which I will be using on another set up strictly for my other lure type for other species, but I know what to expect.

Exactly what it is, I use them quite a bit, in freshwter too. Popular ones are Mirrolure catch 2000 and Bomber boink a doink. i used the Mirror lure this morning.

Monster isn't the word for it, that's incredible. As a barracuda fisherman I have never seen anything remotely close to that in size, biggest I've seen here in Florida was 60", my 50" cuda I caught last month was about 35# and it was thick.

I'll go with the 97% of scientists and I do believe man has a lot to do with climate change. There are 2 issues, 1 being climate change and the other is protecting our resources. The scrap business, which I was in for 35 years is all about recycling, metals, plastics, papers. IMO disposable items need to be biodegradable at a faster rate. CAFE standards should be raised for better mileage, practical alternate energy solutions, an improved more efficient electrical grid. Carpooling is a good idea, if for no other reasons than to manage one's own personal expenses, with less wear and tear on your vehicle, less traffic, HOV lanes do get you to your destination faster in rush hour.

I own 5 stx sorons, a 20, 2 40's and a 60. IPT is the amount of line being picked up per turn, but that number is not constant as it changes with the amount of line on the spool. Only speaking from the way I fish spinning gear, which is 100% of the time, my retrieves are not one steady speed. I'm always varying my retrieve depending on the kind of lure I'm using and my target species. I fish differently if it's an ambush fish, often times moving my rod to move the lure and the reel just picking up slack(that's how define finesse fishing). Fish that just swim looking for bait get a faster more steady retrieve, I fish this way more in saltwater as some of the nuances of fish are different. IPT and gear ratio, I pay little attention to it, the nature of the beast I'm hunting dictates the way I'm fishing. IMO your question has more to do with IPT than a specific reel, but I do really like all my Sorons. Built very solid, if I had one complaint I would have liked to see more line capacity on the 20 model, 8#/130 yds, 9.6 oz, 16# drag. I don't often use it in freshwater, it's mainly a light outfit I use in the ocean surf.

My trial is over. Been using the 20# on 5000 spinning reel for the last few weeks nearly everyday. At first I had minimal line twist using lures that constantly rotate and it casted well. As time went on the line got quite a bit of twist which I expected as with the nature of spinning reels and rotating lures, even though I was using BB and ball chain swivels. The line coating was breaking off from the end to about 2 feet, not sure if the line was weakened or not, but not willing to take the chance with a 45" fish. On this set up I just reloaded back to 14# silver thread, I actually loaded up about 100 yds that I had around and used some of the supercast as backing. I would have respooled anyway regardless what kind of line I was using, about a month is norm for me on this outfit with these lures. All in all the line performed good. I have about the same amount of time using the 12#, so far so good on a smaller spinning reel used in freshwater. I have used nothing but jerkbaits and mostly weightless flukes being extremely careful in not allowing my bait to turn over too much. Nothing over 5# caught but the slop is getting bad here and it's handled it well.

Whether it's mono or F/C there is a difference between mainline and leaders. Leaders are stiffer and cane be a bit more difficult to tie a good knot especially the thicker the diameter. I use 40# leaders and I may tie it a few times before I get it right. Mono or F/C mainline can be used as leader material, that's what I use for both freshwater and inshore fishing, I only use actual leader material in a few instances.

I shoot the bull with just about everyone, depending on their attitude my responses may vary. I was fishing from shore in Boca one day and was talking to 2 guys in a boat, they were looking for peacocks. They were friendly enough so I gave one of them a brand new lure still in the package, I said peacock guaranteed, I wasn't wrong, lol. On the hand this boated fisherman in my canal behind my home was bragging to me about how many fish he catches there, after he asks me what I'm using, I said you're catching so many why ask me, I'm just a bank fisherman. Don't assume just because someone is in a boat they know any more than you do.

I regressed, haven't used a b/c in over 40 years except offshore for pelagic fish and most of the time I'm using spinning. Of the 20+ combos I own I attribute the purchase of half of them to being brainwashed into believing I needed them. I probably use 1 spinning outfit a good 90% of the time in freshwater and mostly use 2-3 inshore outfits. I got a line on a rod and reel I've been thinking about at an excellent price yesterday, after mulling it over I thought I have too much already and the new addition is not going to catch me any more fish. I'm taking a pass, I'll buy it when I need it, I don't need it now.

For the last several weeks I'm using 1 outfit about 95% of the time for my Florida canal fishing, Med 7' 8/17 spinning rod with 12# Supercast line. It's been working well and with the water dropping weeds and slop are coming more into play. If the jig is not damaged I don't see any reason to discard it.

The trend seems to be a line to leader connection using a knot instead of a swivel. I'm not one to be jumping on that bandwagon, except once in awhile targeting certain species, none of which I find in freshwater. I prefer a leader at all times, if for no other reason (and there are others) than getting braided line tangled in a treble hook, a leader is much easier to unravel. I do not like a knot going thru my guides, even a thin profile knot like an alberto.

My first experience with a Pete Dye course was in palm Springs about 17 years ago, didn't realize there was nothing to stop or slow the ball down near those RR ties, first chip............plop into the drink, lol. Growing up in the 50's in Detroit we had a quite a few D.Ross courses, just love them.

Don't catch a fish for few days with an inline spinner, you'll have line twist.

He was wearing sunglasses, didn't protect his lip.

There is nothing wrong with a snap swivel, but there are just better options. Referencing Scott F's bottom picture, that being a duolock snap on a barrel swivel, not a crane or BB. I have seen the swivel itself pulled apart, guessing the fish may have 20-30 or more pounds, never having seen it, I personally would use a better quality swivel and just attach the duolock to it. For my freshwater fishing I may use a duolock at the end of my leader with no swivel attached, most of the time in saltwater I tie a loopknot, as we don't change lures nearly as much. I do not like crosslock snaps, just seem to be more difficult to change lures that the duolock style, just my preference. I've never had one fail fresh or salt and I but them off ebay in lots of 50 or 100, pretty cheap and they work just as well as ones I've bought in tackle stores.

When I see those bombers I gobble them up, I believe the MSRP is $2.99. I have caught countless numbers of bass and snook on them, just as many as xraps. The hooks are not the best, when they need replacement I only use a 4x treble, any brand as long as it's 4x. Some of my bombers are so banged up I don't even know what color they originally were, the fish don't seem to mind they don't look new anymore. I do miss the Renegade brand lures the Walmart used to sell.