spoonplugger1

Remember to use finish on your wraps, not an epoxy adhesive like you get in the stores, they are completely different compounds, I would rather use varnish or clear nail polish then epoxy adhesive. Varnish is what all the old rods you see used and they are still used being today by many. A small can of Varathane Triple Thick shouldn't be hard to find if you can't get thread wrap epoxy.

There is not now, nor has there ever been a reason to heat the wrap as noted above. Since hopefully this is a one shot deal you can just cut a V in a box to set the rod in and hand wrap the guides on, there is no need to put the thread on tight, just snug, multiple wraps over and over are your strength and stability. Remember to wash your hands well before handling the thread so there is not oils, or residue to fisheye your finish.

Multi-stepped, nothing smooth and comfortable, it's a train wreck IMO.

A Fuji or someone elses skeleton and a carbon sleeve from one of the new seats would be all you need to reproduce a cheap, practical but very uncomfortable copy. Carbon sleeve a Fuji HPS and pack it with eva would give a similar fore piece.

It would sure be uncomfortable.

The CC system was never designed to select blanks, it was designed to compare blanks. No more value than comparing two lengths of wood with a tape measure or comparing two objects by weight with a scale. You can build any blank profile of power and angle with wood, bamboo, glass, carbon, but if you don't have identical materials used the end result in use will always be different in use, I don't think I have ever seen a blank lose 6 inches still have such a steep action angle, usually the decreased length, decreases the droop distance used and significantly makes the AA less shallow when compared to the original blank.

It will make an excellent tomato plant stake, I's strip the guides and use it to repair or extend other blanks.

Tprocks2, it's a reel seat that sucks and is easily the most uncomfortable seat you could ever design.

The quality glass rod builders haven't built noodles in 40+ years. The Lamiglas MB series in E glass, or S glass, the St. Croix SC1 S glass, the Seeker BS and BC series in E glass, or S Glass, Sabre E and S glass.

If you want to go full old school, Schneder's has some of the old offset reel seats/grips kits in his Hot Specials section that were used back in the day of round reels and your spincast reel.

The REC 4 mm have been around a long time, I have them on a CTS spinning travel rod I built 16 years ago, I don't understand how that size guide is still an enigma as they have been around since WW II time period and many in the US have used them, I have since the early 80's. A guide is a guide, they all work the same way, I've used them to 2 mm with good success. Don't go into rod building looking for boundaries because they don't exist till you make them.

Later post said they were going to start making their most popular models first with this material, guess this model fits that bill. They just came out with the second blank in this material, a surf rod blank.

If you do the repair as per Ralph O'Quinn and Mick stated you will have good results, if you do it like Chris suggests, you will have problems, the first visual is Chris used a carbon sleeve, do not do that, it is quaranteed to produce a giant flat spot that will have more power than anything around it, there is a real chance of a stress failure at the ends again. Use glass, the lower modulus will insure the blank bends similar to both of the blank's ends. The larger diameter gives it the strength and durability to span the break reliably. Many times now days people really don't read and understand what is important to do, this is not a time to not read and understand Ralph's article if you really love this rod and want to continue enjoying it. Who is Ralph O'Quinn? The owner of U 40 rod building products and an aerospace engineer who developed the system used to hold the ceramic heat shield tiles on the space shuttle.

Where this originated in Japan they have always had both spinning and casting versions and they use them interchangibly as conditions warrant. This is stuff we were doing in the 80's, early 90's, we just didn't have the new reels, we had to modify reels ourselves. The blanks and components were always here.

It looks like any other rod, I could show any of them and you wouldn't be the wiser, the lighter the build the more you worry about component weight. It has 2 mm running guides, silk wraps and minimal permagloss finish.

A 12 rod is what I have used as a 8 to 12 lb test steelhead rod and it is 12 wt. tarpon fly rod.

The reason the GPS vid doesn't cover static testing is because once you have the reduction guides figured out the rest is the very same guide as the choke guide and the rules apply to all rods no matter the length, reel, power, or species. The info you seek is on the Fuji site under Static Load Testing. Hit the menu top right and look for it. There are a bunch of ways to spiral wrap, some real simple, some much more involved, just read an article on a "new" system that sounded like the 40+ year old one developed by Ralph O'Quinn, the guy took 9 pages to explain what Ralph did in 5 minutes, including a demonstration from bare rod, first time a rodbuilding article tryed to put me to sleep before finishing, way to much bla, bla, bla and back patting for my taste. In the end he named it after himself, the Roberts Wrap fiasco all over again.

Don't know about every seat made, but if you think about it why would you change the threaded portion on reel seats? They are every bit as well thought design as the other parts of the seat, they are a certain pitch and a bit sloppy when not in use on purpose, the pitch (angle) along with the looseness jam the threads when turned tight and than twist and ride up a bit on the threads further jamming the nut. By the way, I have taken a nut off another company's nut before and swapped it on Fuji, or other seats, guess they didn't want to reinvent the wheel either. Some have taken the Aero style seat, turned it upside down and used it on flipping sticks before, others have used the Pac Bay Minima spinning seat upside down for the same type rod.

That wasn't much info really and not the SJR700S specifically, I bought mine for $60 back close to 40 years ago an IM6, high tech back then. There was a trick caster, tournament angler, author of many books and articles everywhere, international bass ambassador, and in the Hall of Fame, by the name of Stan Fagerstrom, it was his all time favorite rod. I've caught LMB, SMB, trout of all sizes and species, panfish, bonefish, crappie (an awesome deepwater crappie rod), walleye, speckled trout, shad, steelhead, pink salmon, and just about anything under 15 lbs. I've extended blanks to 6 1/2 ft with great success. A very neat rod, don't think anyone has ever replicated it. I think it could have been called a BFS rod decades before anyone knew what one was. I built a casting version back in the 80's for a retired gentleman who fished the water hazards on the golf course he lived on in Florida, using the first ultralight casting reel I'm aware of, the Shimano Bantam 100EX, he loved that rod combo.

I agree with Havonac, I can't stand the spinning version period, and since I played around with this in the early 90's till now, anything under 12 mm in blank size is very uncomfortable, the fatter the better.

SK type skeleton seats, no matter who makes them, are much more picky about proper installation, if your ducks are not in a row the failure rate is demonstratively higher that the ECS type seats mentioned above, the decreased bonding surface area is the reason, along with the additional strength given by the strap of material under the reel tying all the parts together.

Everyone makes a seat like the Fuji ECS, they all work just as well also.

The grip length you selected is in the range of what you would find on steelhead and salmon rods that are 8 to 13 ft. long, but you would only know that if you were fishing these species. I would never have gone over 11 inches. Think about it, no matter the grip length once you are at 9 inches, that hand, wrist, and forearm are a pretty substantial structure that no fish is going to move, the bones from wrist to elbow are one structure and immovable, let your casting and presentation dictate what works, as will rain gear and other interferences. People spend way to much time trying to get definite, engraved in stone answers, how much will the length of the grip help if it's anchored on your forearm at 11 inches over 13 when both are in essence immovable? Length in front of your hand is also an advantage in casting distance, the longer the lever you push at the same stroke speed increases tip speed, which increases lure speed.

When you are fishing oyster beds in the salt, saying so on a bass site just might get you better answers. Just an observation. I have a river I fish littered with clam shells for walleye, SMB, catfish, salmon, steelhead, and white sturgeon in it, I can't imagine needing that heavy a leader on a rod that has the same power as a lighter powered 5 wt trout fly rod. I fish Sea Run Cutthroat trout over commercial oyster beds with 8 - 10 lb leaders and have for 50 years.

I have never had the problem of not feeling the branch, bottom, lure wobble, or lack of, etc. on a tight line. I cut my teeth on learning to recognize minor changes on slack, or near slack line presentations on fish who take offerings much lighter than an old bucket mouth does, and old E glass rods were all there was back than, tight line presentations are just like falling off a log after that, the only thing easier then tight line fishing is floats, or seeing them take the offering. As we know if you are reeling in a bait at, or near dead on down the line like we do many times, the rod really isn't even in the mix, it's a straight on line to reel connection more than anything else.