cadman

I use gel super glue. Once the cryocyanate flashes there is no smell. Takes about 6 hours to fully harden in my opinion to be usable. I leave it for a 24 hour period.

Honestly, I see an accident waiting to happen. If someone bumps the table, lead will be all over the place. Also I would make sure that you have no children or pets running around. I have mine on a bench I made out of 2X4's and a 3/4" plywood top mtd. to my garage wall in the corner. Also my table top is about 40" tall. I prefer to stand when I pour so in case something does spill it isn't going to go all over my lap and burn through. But if that's all the room you have it will have to do. JMO

I use a heat gun as well, and you should always bake your jigs. The heat cross-links the polymers in the paint and makes the finish hard. This is especially true when you use more thn one color like in my avatar. PM sent

If you dip in a jar, after about 3 jigs you have to manually stir the paint to fluff it up again. If you don't and keep sticking a jig in a jar you will compact the powder therefore when the jig goes in it will have too much powder on it. making the paint run when you bake it. In the fluid bed, the air mixes the powder for you making it fluid, therefore you save time and the powder does not go on as thick because it is constantly moving.

Captain T, If you have powder dust floating around you have the air set too high. You should only get bubbling powder. You dip the hot jig quickly in the bubbling powder then pull it out and rack it. Hope this helps

Jeff, You have to do it in stages, usually bottom color first. My avatar has 6 colors of powder paint on it. PM sent.

Very interesting concept. I was going to mention the same thing J. Francho did, a miniature version of a cowgirl the musky and pike guys use. Let us know how you do with it down the road when you fish it.

Skeeterman is right on the money. I use the 31 count and split mine in half as well. I do not like a stiff weedguard in most situations. Since I sell jigs, I can add and delete fibers as needed to satisfy the customers needs. It works really well this way.

GMAN, Like I mentined above I would never go back to metal pins. It's easy for painting, but it's so much easier for pouring, especially when the pins stick to the lead. Now I don't have to fight with the pins anymore.

I had them custom made and I have them. PM sent.

I've always used the base hole pins that you mold them with. Nylon would be neat. The reason I went with nylon pins is twofold. #1 I use them for painting and #2 I use them for pouring. I got tired of trying to pull out metal pins out of jigs. Sometimes you have to really twist the metal pin out of the jigs weedguard hole after it is poured to get them out . Many times in doing this I would stab myself with the hook or if I used pliers the pliers would catch the hook tip possibly dulling it. So I said enough is enough and don't use the metal pull pins anymore. In painting I stick them in the weedguard hole prior to painting, heat jig with heat gun, put jig in powder paint, immediately pull out pull pin, and rack jig for baking. I don't have to drill ou any more weedguard holes, because paint will never get in there, and with a clean hole the weedguard fits in better, glue holds it better and I save a lot of time by not drilling out paint. I have never and will never go back to metal pins. These are easy to use, easy to take out and they can be used forever unless you lose them. I have 50 for pouring in jigs and 50 for painting. The ones for the pouring have to be kinked a little so they will hold in the mold cavity. But this is no big deal. On the ones for painting, when the pins are cool, I bend them slightly back and forth and the paint cracks and falls off ready for next times use. Just can't beat this system. Too bad I didn't know about this 6 years ago.

I'm also with everyone else. I glue my weedguards after baking. For painting pins I had nylon pins made. They go into the weedguard hole, paint jig, pull out nylon pins, and you never ever have to drill weedguard holes again. Simple, neat, clean and fast.

Gel Super glue or Devcon 2 Ton.

Allen, if you can swing the cash don't buy dremel bits, buy carbide ball end mills or regular carbide end mills they are virtually indestructable, and will outlast any bit you get from Dremel. Dremel bits are only good for wood and light duty work in my opinion Will they work in my Dremel and where can I get them? Allen Yes, they will work in your dremel on high speed, especially the ball end mill. There are many sizes and shank sizes. I do know that they make 1/8" dia. shank sizes. Here is a link take a look at it, read up on the different speeds and cutting materials. This may be a better alternative than what you are using. http://www.mcmaster.com/#ball-end-mills/=a3two2

Allen, if you can swing the cash don't buy dremel bits, buy carbide ball end mills or regular carbide end mills they are virtually indestructable, and will outlast any bit you get from Dremel. Dremel bits are only good for wood and light duty work in my opinion

You are going to have to be more specific. Head style, weight, regular or flat eye hooks. Are you referring to the hitch hiker type jigs, with or without trailer collar. There are many options. I buy all my molds from Zeiner's in Kansas , best prices on the web.

PM me your e-mail, and I can help you with everything you need. Including a list to make your own punch skirts and hand tying. I use thread.

Ranger, I can powder paint them similar to my avatar. If you're interested PM me.

GMan, I have a question for you. Why cut the weedguards on a jig when you can make them without the extra strands? Just curious. BTW don't feel bad, I too have about 150 Do-It molds, so the more the merrier, I think!

i just got the tutorial from cadman, besides the pump where did you get all of the supplies? I got all of my supplies from, Menards. You can try Lowe's or Home Depot as well, or maybe your local hardware store.

intheweeds, PM me your e-mail and I will help you get started and also get some info out to you.

Zbass, I like them all. The best one in my opinion is the blueback category. The one at the top with the stripes and all the colors. That is just awesome. Would love to have one of those as a show piece. Job well done

GMan, Yep, that is the mold I linked above also. If you use std hooks no prob. If you go heavier than only a slight mod to the hook eye and the hook shank, along with the belly.

Five Bass Limit, If you know what size head you are looking for, I can let you know what hooks will match up in there. The std hook that fits in that mold would be a aberdeen hook. Bu I know for a fact that you can go to a 90 degree Mustad, with a heavier hook. This way you would only have to modify the belly which would make life easier if that's what you want to do. Let me know if I can help.