cadman

First I have to say you guys paint some beautiful baits, and secondly it's nice to see that you list all your colors and step by step info on how you paint them. Outstanding information. I am slowly getting into air brushing and have been practicing my painting technique. I have a long way to go. The Natural.........very nice choice of colors. idlov2fish............very unique and different. I like the mesh inside the mesh. Thad...................that is really awsome. M & M.................another nice color combination I like. I'm going to guess that everyone listed above buys their cranks unpainted except idlove2fish correct? Where do you guys buy blank crankbaits? Lastly would any of you guys have a problem if I PM'ed you for more info on your crankbaits? PM me back if it's OK, I just don't want to bother anyone, or ask for any of your trade secrets. Thanks for all the detailed information.

BigMatt, tutorial sent via e-mail.

Danny, Try here http://www.crappie.com/crappie/jig-tying-jig-making-forum/

Tutorial sent via e-mail

basspro, If you are referring to putting a Mustad #3810945° flat eye hook into a Do-It (FBB-4H-AFM) and a (FBB-3M-AFM) 60° flat eye football mold, then the answer is yes. If you are looking at something different, then state hook brand and hook # and what mold and I can check it for you.

Big M, I have a question for you. I have been using D2T forever and I like it . I make a lots of leadhead jigs and spinnerbaits. With the D2T I brush it on, stand the jig up and the D2T self levels, but I sometimes get sag marks. I know about the drying wheel etc. My question is this if I used e-tex, brushed it on and then let it drip down, when it drips will it give an even coat, since it's so thin? I would then put another coat on after the first dries. I don't want to use a drying wheel, because at a couple hundred jigs, I can get a lot done faster my way. Just your thought on this if you don't mind................Thanks for your input. BTW I've never used e-tex before. You can PM me if you like as to not hijack this thread.

Fishwhittler, If you lived down the street from me (you probably don't) I can give and or make you a steel or stainless steel bolt. I would need length, and thread type and or a sample of the old bolt. But realistically it would be cheaper to buy another reel like J Fracho stated.

A fluid bed is a container that holds powder paint and then fluidizes powder paint by the use of forced air. So if you are painting lots of lead jigs, it will speed up the process for you, and will put on a thin even coat of paint.

I use a #4 for heavier applications and a #2 for lighter powder applications. The brushes I got are some cheap ones from China I got at Menards. About a $1 for six. Remember less powder paint is better.You can always add more, but once its on you can't take it off unless you strip it off.

I have been using that method for about 5 years with very good success. The only other choice would be paint by hand with Testor's paint, or air brush.

Jig Man is correct, don't waste your time. Plus you will never get a good paint job with the weedguard in place. Just my opinion. I use drill bits that fit in the weed guard hole. After pouring, you can open them up with a cordless drill, or you can paint them, bake them and then open them up with the correct size drill you want to use.

If you have a Lee IV bottom pour pot, then you should have it on no higher than 7-7.5 on the dial. If you are pouring soft lead, you should have no problems with your pours.

First of all there are a lot of questions that need to be answered. #1 What type of pot ( model # etc)? #2 Is the lead hard or soft? #3 What type of mold are you trying to pour into? #4 How hot is your pot? You can clean your lead and purify it some with bees wax then light the smoke. Purple lead usually means that the lead is too hot. All pots will drip. The yellowish stuf on top is from oxidized lead just carefully spoon it out............Here are some answers to your questions. I'm sure more will chime in.

They are very nice looking jigs indeed.

GMan is correct not all powder paints will work with all membrane media. You may have to try several different type of membrane material, and have several different cups dedicated for certain colors. Allergy pillow cases work also.

Cadman, this is where I get all my paint. http://www.csipaint.com/ Thanks for the info

GMAN, if that is powder paint on the white Poison Tail, can you tell me whose brand you use?. I'm looking for a different white....Thanks

You really don't want to dilute Devcon. I use it on my jigs and spinnerbaits as is, and it is fine and dries hard as a rock. The only time I would dilute it is when I'm making crankbaits and using it as a wood sealer. You can also dilute it with denatured alcohol. The reason I say not to dilute the devcon, is because I believe it compromises or weakens the epoxy.....This is just my opinion.

It is impossible to get water that high. (unless its under pressure) 212 deg F (100 Celcius) is the highest you can get pure water, after that its steam. Heat Gun will work, also a hair dryer works in a pinch. Heat it slowly and evenly until its soft all the way through, you don't want to get it too hot otherwise it results in what you have. You are absolutely correct, I don't know what I was thinking. I checked the thermometer at work, and it was 190 degrees. Thanks for the correction.

We put 90 degree bends in lexan(polycarbonate) at work all the time in a brake press. You can not use a lighter. Take the bill put it in water, and you need to get the water temp to 300-350 degrees no more. Keep it in there for about 10-20 minutes. Then take the piece out with gloves on, and bend it over a piece of pipe or whatever you have. You will not get any crack or fracture marks. You will get a crease if you bend it 90 degrees, but you are not bending it that much. Your leaxan will be crystall clear.

If you are going to put on a clear coat epoxy like Devcon 2 Ton, or E-tex, then all your baking should be done before the clear coat is put on.

Erik, Harshman kind of put it into perspective. I have some info you might be interested in. PM me your e-mail and I will forward a lot of info to you on getting started.

Bassman, I pour and paint a lot of jigs and spinnerbaits, and I have not found an easier method. I do the same thing you do. I tried sanding lead, too much airborne lead powder in the air. I tried a dremel, very hard to control. I found hand filing to be the best solution. This is just my opinion. I've also seen guys not file the cut sprue marks and then paint the jigs. I tell you what it looks terrible. You would never see that on one of my baits. Personally I feel if you can't do it right don't do it at all.

Whos brand of powder are you using and what temp are you curing your powder on and for how long.

BTW he is my source for a complete fluid bed that works excellent right out of the box. If you don't feel like making one contact Benjamin at Tj's, he also sells powder paint very reasonably priced.