DawsonH

I think its safe from the damage you are describing, I didn't find any evidence of water in the oil when I drained it originally, and it was run at a pretty high rpm in reverse. If I don't take it apart any further than it already is, then the only tool I will need will be the one to put the detent balls and spring back in.

The scaring is not around the bearings, its around where the pinion and forward gear sat, it was caused by some of the chunks wedging and rubbing. Ill get a pic if I can.

I have an update. I will start with the minimal amount of good news and proceed from there. I only had to spend about seven dollars on a puller, I was able to rig one out of a simple gear puller and two three inch bolts. I found a decent pair of snap ring pliers for twenty dollars, and a pair of long handled needle nose pliers for seven. That totals to 34 plus the repair manual at 42 for a grand total of $76. Now for the bad news. The forward gear, pinion gear, forward bearing, and pinion thrust washers are all damaged. The forward gear and pinion are destroyed, lower unit was full of chunks once I pulled the gears and could see in there. Now I know what you guys mean when you say chunks. Also, this may be the worst part, there are a couple scars that I can see on the actual gear case housing. So having said all that, my rough estimate for the gears and seals etc. is $550, however, this is if you guys think it is safe to fix it with some scars on the housing. If not, then it looks like I need to find another lower unit. Thoughts? Forgot to mention, also some minor scaring on the outside of the clutch dog, but it doesn't look really bad, probably fixable with some sandpaper. My estimate did include replacement for that.

ok, thanks alot.

Hey it has one of those omc trolling motors like I used to have. It was a nice tm till the cable broke on it. Nice boat!

I'm working on taking apart my johnson 30 hp's lower unit. This is the 1993 model. Right now I am at the stage where I need to take the prop shaft bearing housing off, and I do not have the puller that the service mannual calls for to do so. Is there some other way to remove this part without buying a $75 dollar tool?

Yes, unfortunately there are those out there who intentionally try to irritate fisherman. However, I have heard stories of fisherman fighting back with there rods and lures.

You said you fish rivers and want to fish creeks: One word for that desire: Aluminum. If you fish river and creek long enough you will hit something, its as simple as that. You can jump logs in aluminum if your careful, in fiberglass I wouldn't do it.

Dude, that sucks about California.

Hey Catt, a little off topic, but a question about the sabine river: What does it look like below tbend as far as depth, riffles, and such?

I am interested in this topic also, I will be looking at buying a new boat in the next six months and I fish mostly rivers. As the one before me stated, when the river is low I have to get out and push, and every once and a while I have to jump logs that are just under the surface. I was originally considering a jet drive, but was suspicious of running it around pea gravel and sand. Looks like I got the part about running it around sand and gravel answered, but I want to see more peoples opinions and information on this topic. I also want something that I can load up with camping gear for 2-3 people/ 5 days or more. Would a 18'6 or a 20 be big enough to hold this much stuff plus fishing gear and still be able to run shallow water? I was thinking something along the lines of an 18'6 or a 20' center console with a tunnel, hydraulic jack plate, and around a 60 hp prop. Would this work? I don't need to go break neck fast, these rivers around here twist and turn a lot.

1. Shoot it 2. Burn it 3. Fry it 4. Stomp on it 5. Throw it in air and allow to fall to ground 6. Grab tail with towel and slam on rock 7. Chop off head 8. Crush with sledge hammer 9. Bite the jugular 10. Run over it with truck 11. Throw into fan 12. Throw in front of moving vehicle 13. Leave it on bank all day and night 14. Place in bathtub along with hairdryer 15. Add seasonings and wrap in foil alive and hole, then cook on open flam.

1. Draw imaginary line between eyes 2. From center of this line follow head back until you are between gills 3. Use nail, pellet gun, or other object. Should get the brain and spinal cord 4. If still alive keep looking poking along that line, all the nerves are along it

canned sweet corn and a small bait holder hook, number 4 or 6. Throw a couple handfuls of the corn out there, put about three kernels on your hook and put it in the same place as the bait you threw out. Make sure you have your drag set lite and plenty of line on your reel because you are going to be in for the fight of your life if you get a hold of that thing. Reason for light drag and small hook is the fact that they do not have any bones in there mouth and if you are not careful you can pull the hook out.

x2 on something being funny about no plates. If there was not title its probably hot.

Take the advice of those people saying that there is nothing wrong with the motor, it costs nothing to get a straight answer on it, and it may have nothing more than $10 worth of materials needed to fix it.

Try the clear bubble slip bobbers along with small flies on light spinning gear if you do not wish to go with a fly rod. Works for me as well as rooster tails like others have mentioned. Try fishing something that looks like a pellet.

seafoam is the $h@t!

Learning to do it with a bc at night is better than going to spinning gear imo. If you go to spinning gear you are going to cut out some of the best night time baits such as large spinners, buzzbaits, big topwaters, and 10-12'' worms. Practice doing it without looking in the daylight where you have more confidence, then when you get ready to try at night it will already be ingrained in your head and you will not need to think about it.

Dynamite ftw!

and seafoam is recommended by service centers. And you can use it for other stuff too. Like your other small engines to clean them and to get coleman lanterns working again. Great stuff.

You seem to me to be more interested in people telling you its ok than you are people giving you good advice. Here are several reasons why it is a bad idea and you should look into other options: a. Over the weight limits b. The Difficulty of fishing that close to another angler c. Not to insult, but you seem inexperienced on water: bad combo with a small boat because small is not equal to easy in this case d. There are other options such as the portable boats listed on this website e. I have a 12X32 and thats not an easy one to deal with, two foot shorter would be worse I would really suggest you weigh other options. If you plan on putting this boat in the back of a truck or something you would be fine with a longer boat than a 10'. Give us some info on why you are set on that length.

Let me drop a couple updates here: I drained the lower unit oil per another person's suggestion on a different board. It did not appear to be full of shavings but it smelled BURNT. I changed it this spring before I got to bass fishing much, so it hasn't been in there an ungodly amount of time. Also spoke with service manager at a shop by phone today, told him same thing I put here and he said sounded like lower unit. I figure the estimate was going to be high to tear into a lower unit, and considering I'm thinking about looking for a new boat anyway it looks like I'm gonna let it go. The dudes reaction was " There is no telling what that is gonna be to fix" So, next question: I know this motor is probably not worth $200 dollars now, and the transom is showing signs of rot. What do you guys think would be a fair asking price to sell this boat, or would it be worth my time to try and fix the transom and then sell it? This is an aluminum boat with a metal wood sandwich transom. It still performs fine with the smaller outboard. Anyway, any advice is appreciated. I know my baby is about to be dead, I just hope its worth something of a down payment. :'(

Was working on a 20 mile run monday and the motor started making a noise like something was inside with the prop causing it to try to stall. Only does this in forwards, had to use reverse to get back. Passing angler said it was probably clutch pin. Model year of motor is 1993. Questions: 1. Is this person correct based on the presented info? 2. Is a clutch pin something that can be fixed by someone with some patience and time? 3. If answer to 1 or 2 is no, how expensive to fix? 4. Is it worth fixing?

If your fishing from the bank for a fish against the bank make a cast 10-20 feet beyond the fish your looking at, to a spot that will all you to bring the bait back towards the fish's face, but without touching it with your line. Just use some small and light weight, like a weightless plastic stick bait or a 1/0 worm hook and a grub. Something subtle like that is a good bet for that situation. If that doesn't work throw a brick at it and try to knock it out, then go grab it! Works every time for me! ;D