George Welcome

If all you are looking for is local knowledge, go to a bait shop, don't hire a guide. If you are looking for an educational and productive trip then expect the guide to fish. That doesn't mean the you will be front boated as any guide that is worth anything is an expert at handling the boat to keep you in the zone. Also, bear in mind that not all fishing is the same. If I was taking a trip for trout I would expect to be shown productive eddies and such, not to have the guide ****** the trout that is sitting there. Trout and bass are nothing alike. If I was going muskie fishing I would expect the guide to be handling the boat, not grabbing the rod that gets hit. Muskies and bass are not the same. If I am going for saltwater fish such as reds I would expect the guide to be pointing out the reds to cast to, not catching them. Saltwater fish and bass are not the same. If I am on a bass trip I want the guide showing me that the fish are there, not just pointing a finger and telling me that they are. As for fishing by invitation: sounds to me like you are on your boat and not the guide's boat. Somewhere you got lost in who owns the boat and who is the guest. As a guide's client you hired his expertise, you didn't buy his boat. As a guide I run the show. I tell you when, where, and suggest how, which is what people pay me to do. If you don't want that kind of advice then it is probably best that you charter a boat. As I previously stated: talk with a guide about your expectations and desires. If your not in agreement than move on to someone that agrees with you. As someone said, bass fishing changes by hour, by day, and by week. If he isn't fishing than how is he going to know what is going on. Are some of you suggesting that he rely on your fishing skills? If that is what he is doing than you didn't need to hire him in the first place. To be disappointed in your decision to hire a guide if neither of you caught fish tells me that you haven't done much bass fishing. There will be those days, although rare and far between that the fish just won't cooperate no matter what. You may be disappointed, but probably not as much as any good guide is, but to blame him if he worked throughout the day is flat out rediculous. So, that's the philosophy of an extemely successful and busy guide. PS: Out of thousands of trips that I have done, I have only had one client ask me not to fish. After three hours of fairly non-productive fishing he asked that I show him that fish were in the area. We went on that day to catch in excess of 70 fish including his long sought after 10+ pound bass. We did that with the same bait, and never left the same area. He just needed some demonstrated coaching. Monkey see, monkey do is an outstanding way to learn.

The dam is off limits for safety reasons just like every other dam is just about anywhere. I would suggest that he is only one of probably many that fish the dam. Don't take it so personal. If he wants to risk endangering himself let him and the authorities worry about it. I doubt that the Military really cares, but rather has it posted for the same reasons as all dams are posted; Safety and lawyers. However, you might mention it to someone at the base if it has you really concerned.

Costas seem to costa lot but nothing compared to what it will costa you in loss of vision later in life from not protecting your eyes. If you want to protect your eyes, see into the water, and look stylish then the costa Costas will seem to costa you a small amount.

The assumption is being made in this thread that bass see what we do and have the ability to discriminate colors. It's too big of an assumption. Spend some time researching: Look to find out how many controlled research projects about bass eyesight have been done, and look closely to see if they were scientific or assumptive. Is it you that the bass sees, or is it your footfall and the consequential vibration of the ground that the bass feels that makes them run? Next time you have a bass in your hand, look at the pupil of the eye and with shading see if you can get the pupil to change. Someone could write a book about this sight stuff. Oh, I think someone already did, but you have to sort the truth from fiction, and once you do you will come to the conclusion: Bass do not have eyes that function as a human's eyes do. Wearing special clothing to fish is not going to change your productivity. Walking slowly and quietly will affect your productivity, as will casting skill and recognizing those shoreline areas likely to hold bass and casting to them before you are standing on them.

Carolina rig bite = plastics bite I see this question frequently and if is a common one asked by my clients. The C-Rig bite is the same as any other bite that comes with the use of plastics. There is the smash and run - There is the pick up and sit, (increased pressure) - There is the pick up and swim towards you, (suspicious but not sure). As with any method of of plastic fishing the simple rule is: If it feels different hit it. If you have fished plastics using any type of method, look for the same thing from the C-rig. The hits are going to be the same. Of course, key to this whole topic would be, are you using a C-rig, or someone's modified idea of a C-rig. For example: pre-packaged C-rig, (weight sliding a short distance on metal wire), aren't a C-rig at all. Weight crimped on the line is not a C-rig at all. A C-rig is comprised of: bait on hook, then leader, then swivel, then bead if you want, then some form of slip weight. Since the line moves through the weight freely if you stay in contact with the bottom with the weight, and stay in contact with your line as you move the bait, then you will feel the bait get picked up without a problem.

Let's get it straight: Senko - Kinami Only the packaging is different!

Tidal fishing: Yes, the moon affects the tides, but the tides relate to salt water access-egress. Lakes don't have tides. You can out-science yourself quite easily with this bass fishing thing.

Everybody should take a moment to say hi to Avid because his path that he follows when there is a storm is what kills people here in Florida every year. He could definitely be the next statistic we have down here. It should be real easy for everyone on this subject.

Backing up Glenn's response: Structure is impenetrable. Cover is penetrable

From the bottom: Kreatures make excellent C-rig bait. The lindy makes an excellent weight especially in heavier greass. Depending on cover you are fishing the bait can be Texposed or hook buried. The action and coverage makes the rig an excellent search rig, and once the fish are found a deadly presentation. Move the bait with the rod, not the reel. Put the c-rig into a swimming pool with some items that create obstructions for your weight and watch the action. Simple physics make this bait a large are coverage bait. (physics: action-reaction)

Secondary points are all points in coves and inlets. Any point is a restriction of the water, which will accelerate water movement: (Bernouli principle) when it is present, whether by wind or current. Increased current equals a great place to hang. As previously noted, add cover and you have an almost irresistible place for the bass to hang with their mouths open.

Pay to fish lakes have been around a long time. It was not uncommon at all back in the 60-70's. The owner of the property kept the place stocked and most areas were catch and release. It was far more common with trout locations than any other. Places such as Bienville Plantation do quite well in this day and age, specializing and bass. They off package deals such as lodging, food, and fishing.

another: www.micromunchtackle.com

Beautiful place, beautiful fish.

Where is the lake?

Pre-rigs: the package may call them a pre-rigged Carolina rig, but they are not. A Carolina rig is comprised of a hook, leader, swivel, (bead if you want), and a free running weight. On the pre-rigs the weight is not free running. The pre-rigs are a gimmic that is not as called. The bead came into being because the lead weight tends to close up with the beating that it takes when being dragged. As the lead became out of round the hole would close and the edges would get sharp with the warpage. The lead would then have a tendency to cut the line at the knot, hence the bead. It is also used to add color, and some believe noise. With the brass weights and the Tungsten weights, you will not have any warpage of the hole. How many of those fish that you think you missed where actually holding onto the weight and beads? I consider the hardware an attractant so my rig is set up: #10 swivel and Tungsten or brass weight with no bead.

Star Brite Hull cleaner and a tooth brush will take care of it if the rust is light. If there is visible pitting then get rid of them.

Where are you looking for a map of?

There is no question that the trap can be one of the best producer during these hot times. The bass are feeding in the AM and in the PM on shad. If the shad don't hit the surface they will be just below and the bass know it.

One of the good things to know would be where you are fishing. However, the more than likely is the deeper and the shaded. Down sizing could make the difference, but I would think slower would be the more correct solution. Also, search that deeper water for some form of cover and fish the opposite side of the sun. I am assuming that you are fishing from a boat. Dock pilings make perfect areas of shelter from the sun, so when you are targeting those docks get in tight to the pilings.

My location gives me access to both salt and fresh water, and if we do salt water fishing, the circle hook is the only way. Unfortunately with the larger golden shiners the circle hook doesn't work as well. However, for the smaller baits such as minnows they would definitely be the way to go.

Doing it better: Here's a few tips - 1. Hooking - very important for what you want to have the shiner do. If you want surface activity the hooks should be placed just before or aft of the dorsal fin. Be careful not to go too deep. Before the fin pulls the shiner upward as they swim away, and aft the fin will pull them up even quicker. If you want the shiner to swim normal hook them through the bottom lip and out one of the nostrils. If you want the shiner to swim down and forward hook them just aft of the anal fin and forward of the anal opening. Unless you are in heavy weeded areas or very woody areas get rid of the float and fish them free-lined. If there is current present, (an ideal situation), consider adding a split weight or even Carolina rig them to keep them down in the column. Hooking: There always has to be the tough part to any technique and with shiners this is definitely the hard part. You must have a straight line between you and the fish. Any bow or loose line will translate to a miss. Sometimes you get lucky and the bass will accomodate this by swimming directly away, but this doesn't occur always. Many times they will swim back towards you and when this happens you have to reel to the fish. You cannot sneak up on a bass Any nudge before the hookset and the bass will spit the bait. If you have to reel, reel quickly until you have that straight line and then set. (This timing takes practise) The other key to successful shiner fishing is to be patience. Whether using a float or free-lined remember that the bass has to actually have the shiner positioned so that your hookset is made when the hook is in their mouth. Just because the float goes down, or the shiner starts getting pulling doesn't mean this is so. Give the bass a chance to position the bait properly and even then take your time. Use the proper hook for the shiner size: Kahle hooks work best and result in the least gut hooks. Learn to remove hooks if they do get gut hooked through the gills!!!!!

Since you have a chart, looking for structure has been solved. Follow the basic steps and look for a pattern by answering the following: How does the season affect bass where you will be fishing. What is the weather pattern where will you be fishing and what effect could you expect this pattern to have at this time. What other factors could affect the above factors? One that occurs on most lakes was given and that is that early AM shallow water bite. Another item given which can alter the above factors is areas of inflow. A lake in a mountainous region can be affected at inflow areas for days after a period of heavy rain. Once you have determined where and the prescence of fish try to determine the pattern within the pattern. For example on a main lake point did you find the fish on the lee or windward side of the point. Also look for a pattern of technique. Work through your various baits slowly to determine if there is a preference there. If you have been successful with finding the pattern and the fish then look for the identical scenerio to occur when all things are identical. Same structure, same depth, etc.

The way you worded these questions is probably the best way I have ever seen it asked. The question is so good that I think it justifies a complete response so without writing a book this is still going to get lengthy. If one enters this profession with the intent of getting paid to fish they will only be around for a brief period of time. Intrinsic to the reasons for becoming a guide has to be the love of fishing, the desire to share knowledge, and the true enjoyment of meeting and interacting with people. The money, although absolutely needed to sustain ourselves, is secondary to the profession. The second part of the question is directed to requirements needed to keep the people coming back. I answered a post on another page that asked the question: "what does it mean when someone says that to be successful you need to have paid your dues?" Suffice it to say that most people that try this profession fail because they simply have not learned to fish yet or as stated, "Paid their dues". People hire a guide with every expectation of catching more and bigger fish then if they were to go it alone. In order to produce the guide needs to excel in all areas of expertise required to come in first place in the catching of their chosen quarry. It is not sufficient to own a boat and to have fished the lake a few times. Being intimate with the lake is but a small part of the equation and of far less importance than simply truly knowing how to fish. For edification purposes I am enclosing my response to the "dues" question. You know you have paid your dues when you can honestly say that you have learned all the mechanical skills with the tackle of your choice. Most people settle for learning only a few. You know you have paid your dues when you can honestly say you understand all the mechanical skills of the operation of your boat and its associated equipment. You know you have paid your dues when you can honestly say that you can look at your electronic equipment and with a glance can tell exactly what it is telling you. You know you have paid your dues when you can honestly say that you understand and can use all of the various bait presentation techniques and the proper baits associated with them. You know you have paid your dues when you can honestly say that you are completely aware of the happenings that are taking place around you at all times. You know you have paid your dues when you can honestly say that you ask, (where, how, why, when) on each and every fish that you catch. You know you have paid your dues when you can honestly say that you know what member of fish the bass belongs to, and based on that you have an understanding of its probable actions throughout the various seasons that you fish in. You know you have paid your dues when you can honestly say at the end of a fishing day that you put forth your absolute best effort all the time that you were on the water, prior to going on the water with preparation, and after you have left the water with review. What's the most difficult single item in any of the above? You know you have paid your dues when you can honestly say that you have been completely honest with yourself in your evaluation of your fishing skills. You know you have paid your dues when your mindset is such that you never stop learning. The day you stop learning is the day that you begin to fail. Without meeting the above criteria you cannot and will not succeed in this business, or in the business of tournament fishing. It is foremost and the most critical of all aspects of making a living in the fishing industry. In addition to meeting the fishing skills criteria, a successful guide needs to have an understanding of the business world and how it rotates. A guide needs to do far more than cast baits to the water. The day starts well before the actual launch of the boat and well after the boat has been trailered and the customer has gone home. As with any day of fishing for anyone, preparation is essential to a successful day. Obviously the mechanical preparations must be filled: ice, gas, and so on, but in addition weather, the day's techniques, and baits to be used must all be paid attention to. Typically, we start at about 3:00 AM for a 6:00 AM launch to take care of these items. Once home at fishing times close, we now have to attend to the business end of this endeavor, and boat cleanup for the next trip. On the business end there is accounting, (the tax man wants his share). Communication needs such as answering e-mail has to be attended to, fishing reports filed, fishing logs completed. We file fishing reports on many pages and this alone takes as much as 1-2 hours almost daily. My day typically ends upon the completion of all this at about 7:00 PM. In between all the above is the attending to maintaining your name in front of the public. Again this is a constant chore and includes participating in forums such as this, writing of articles for various media, and so on. Last but not least is attending to family needs and obligations. It takes an understanding spouse and family to allow one to pursue a path such as this. Both my wife, (all our children are grown and have given us 7 grand-kids), and Scott's family understand our love for what we are doing and our dedication. This is a simple overview of all that is involved. The involvement is intense, but the enjoyment and satisfaction far outweighs any aspect of guiding that could be considered work.

Scott and I will book in excess of 300 full day trips this year. This year is off a bit, probably due to a compilation of effects from 9/11, hurricanes, and gas prices. On average we book in excess of 400 trips per year. Actual days on the water for both of us will be in excess of 320 days.