BriBass

What is the demonstration that you do to "see" it work? I love my megastrike just curious

Hey RW... it seems many memebers are new or not familiar with jerkbait fishing. Could you possibly share with all your experience what is the "best" way to go about using and fishing a jerkbait? As well as depth/temp Thatd be great and huge help to many i would guess! o ya and some colors!!

thanks for your help guys! What are your thoughts on a Duckett Micro 7.6" MH - cranking rod?

I need a little bit of help... I need a deep cranking rod for baits going about 10 foot - 20 foot diving. I use a different set up for shallow cranks. Price range will be about $100-200 My question is do you want a "MH" cranking rod for deeper depths? I see some companies have cranking rods called MH. For example the Denali series has a M and a MH specifically for cranking. Anyways what do you all use when throwing a diver from 10" - 20" situations? Thanks for any help! Brian

when u guys say on a jig.. do you mean jig head or like a footballhead... i thought i remember reading some members use them on a football head jig. Thats sounds so interesting and different. Can anyone elaborate?

looks awesome!

Tackle warehouse?

Thanks for the tip above! good idea!

love them also! they dont get hung up too much either!

http://bizzbaits.com/pad-daddy-bait

that is a great idea.... and great advice its a very expensive hobby but this will sure help! btw.. whats your ebay name?? :eyebrows: only kidding LOL

Thanks for sharing the video!! nice one and looks good

yup, oil to make them.. and it takes oil to transport them

Ive never seen falcon lake craw in person... its not a laminate right? its a solid color isnt it?

Awesome thank you for the sale!

Wow. Thats crazy, this could change the market big time.. once one state does it ... many will follow i would presume

And you must STIR!!!! dont just throw it in and cook for 3 min... you will scortch it and the fumes are toxic. heat for 1 min then stir, heat for 1 min and stir, repeat... and it will be comes thick and keep repeating the process... after the thick stage it will start to become liquid and ready to go! *** this is fresh plastisol though.. not if your just reheating old worms

^^^ this...

the toads sink the spacemonkeys are awesome baits! Tx rig works great!

Theres alot that goes into a "senko" shape to make it wiggle the way its suppose to.. not many out there even do it, the shape is FAR from actually allows it wiggle with the desired effect you want

Awesome Stuff! Always have it on!

I know you said not plastic frogs bc they dont right and you are correct but check out the Bizz Baits pad daddy! Most realistic soft body frog and it always runs correctly! (belly down) It has a rounded belly and the way the hook slot is on the back it always stays belly down no matter what it hits! Hook ups for a topwater bait like this go through the roof bc your hook is always up correctly! you wont be disappointed As for hollow body, ive always used spro

tungsten is VERY dense and just smoothing it down wont fix the problem! It will still cut your line... most of the great tungsten weights actually have a coating on the inside of the weight before it is painted... no an insert though!

yup! ull find the same feeling when u have unique favorite colors

I think you may have that backwards. Inserts do tend to cut the line. Removing inserts from a inserted weight may also as the surface finish might not be as smooth as non-insert weights. Non-inserted is the way to go, no risk in fraying the line. EXACTLY! If it has an insert it WILL cut your line eventually. Also, most inserts suck to begin with so if they crack or break the tungsten beneath it is NOT smooth or coated at all and will slice your line immediately on your next hookset! Ive done alot of research with inserts vs non-inserts and trust me... i will never even look at a tungsten weight that is not smooth finshed/polished and coated. For example tru-tungsten but there are many good ones out there now