Yankee_Bassman

What about one of those digital thermometers that you can get at a cooking store? They have a probe on a long cable, and some have a magnet on the back...don't know if they read that low or not, but they're pretty cheap....

I can't imagine that I would take a regular bass boat any shallower than I took my Nitro F/S last summer....I had it in places where I had to hold the trolling motor up so high I was getting splashed by its prop...the biggest adjustment I had to make was learning to steer it....after years of owning v-hulls, the first several times I docked were downright embarassing ......they just don't turn at low speed like a v-hull....

Ez-actly.....the only time I throw overhand is if the water is so clear that I need to get a topwater way out from the boat, and I'm not trying to get close to a specific target....otherwise, it's sidearm or rollcasts for me....

Welcome to the forum, James.....everything you've been told so far makes a lot of sense, but it's not quite the buzzkill it sounds like...you mentioned you were a member of a bass club......I'll bet if you're willing to listen, and ask an older experienced boater for help, you can find someone who will check out a used boat or two for you......first, you need to solve the storage problem....Madhouse is right...those storage places can cost as much as the boat loan....how did you arrive at $15,000 total? Do you know the bank will finance 10K for you? Does the note leave you enough for the little extras like eating, clothes, and a date every once in awhile? If all those answers are yes, start by checking prices in your area for what you want to buy.....once you know the going prices, you'll be able to spot a great deal, a square deal, and a rip-off...be patient.....I got a good deal on my used boat by waiting until the right deal came along.....in the meanwhile, I got around in a 12 ft V hull with a 9.9 HP....the bass fought just as hard......good luck.

That's a really nice job, Mike...that accessory on the back deck in the last picture is going to need higher maintenance and become more expensive to own every year, though......

I bought a pair of Sammy's last Spring, figuring that at that price, they had to be outstanding....on the very first cast with one, I had a huge blow-up and hookset....then I saw a fat pickerel come half way out of the water, then I felt the line go slack.....no more Sammy.....I cruised for half an hour hoping it would float up....uh-uh.... I soon discovered after using the other one that I actually like the Zara Spook better....and it's a lot more affordable to lose......I've had no luck with my Live Pointer, but have caught them after switching from the Pointer to a suspending Rapala..... sickest feeling, I think, is one of those break-offs that occurs on the cast, and the lure sails high into the woods along the shore....happens to me mostly with jigs, it seems, and always one that's been catching, and is the last I have of it's type.

Bassin' is the favorite, Bassmaster mag is second for Bass fishing tips. I also like a couple of local mags, The Fisherman and On the Water magazine, a weekly and monthly which cover fishing in New England, with more emphasis on salt water than fresh.....

My "new-to-me-last-year" bass rig is a fish 'n'ski, and all I know is, it beats the heck out of the 12' Gamefisher I was using before......

I'd be there with you, but I'm still freezing my tail off in Madhouse's driveway, waiting for the lobster and beers........

From the New Hampshire 2006 fishing regs: "Snagging fish in freshwaters is prohibited. Any fish accidentally snagged must be immediately released to the water." Definition: "Snagging, snatching, or lifting: The taking or attempting to take of any fish by foul hooking;that is, hooking the fish in any part of the body other than inside the mouth. " My abstract of Mass laws says snagging is prohibited, but this short version of key laes doesn't have any definitions. I'm guessing it's pretty close to NH's law, though. A big "Attaboy" to Kid with a Rapala, though, for knowing instinctively that it wasn't fair, even if legal, and passing that info on to a young fisherman.

Let us know if that solves the problem.....

Here's the deal regarding the boat running OK with low compression.....say the compression was low, but just above the lowest limit where poor performance would be easily noticeable....you could still accelerate, and still run at high speeds, but it might last a week, a year, or....the better news is, if it was way below necessary compression in even one cylinder, that cylinder would most likely be "dropping", and you'd notice it on acceleration and at top end......she'd sputter or hesitate on acceleration, for example....way below minimum necessary spec on two or more, and it would be most likely be hard-starting, and you'd have real ragged acceleration and top end. I'd still be concerned about being told the compression "is 105"....that answer doesn't make sense. If you're getting a good deal on the boat, and the boat itself is sound, and the motor does quit, you might be able to repair or repower and still be around the resale value....just keep in mind an old boat isn't like an old car....even if you can do the work yourself, it's almost impossible to completely do over a boat, motor, and accessories and stay below or even at the actual value of the boat, unless you're getting it for next to nothing, and even then, maybe not.....the woods are full of boats somebody got fro free, then turned into planters when they found out how much coin was going to have to go into their bargain to make it seaworthy.....on the other hand, a little patience, and you might find a good deal on a boat with no problems and a warranty of some kind, and not have to worry about the extra expense and lost time due to repairs. Up here, a rebuild job is going to cost you the better part if not all of the season. If your in love, and this is the only one for you, consider this.....Madhouse is right on about the dealer probably wanting to sell the owner a new boat, and the sale may be conditional on selling the old for a certain minimum price....the dealer may be willing to gamble on no problems showing up for say 7 days, and may give you that much warranty. Let him think you're dumb to settle for a 7 day warranty, who cares? If he's dumb enough to give it to you, head right down the road and get it gone over completely. Let us know how you make out....I saw your post in the other thread, and I know you're rightfully excited and proud, and I hope it all works out OK for you.

TL: There is a compression measurement for each cylinder....One will usually be lower than the others, but there shouldn't be more than a 15% difference from the lowest to the highest figure; Saying "the compression is 105" on a multi-cylinder motor is BS......that should be the first warning bell......checking cold vs. warmed up has no particular value, either....it is usually tested "dry", and if a problem is found, oil is squirted into the cylinder that's low, to help diagnose the reason for the low compression (commonly called "wet testing").....that's the second warning bell.....you didn't say the make and horsepower of the motor, but off the top of my head, compression of 105 in any cylinder sounds very low for what I assume is at least a 115 HP if it's on a Stratos....you can find out the specs on compression for that motor easily...ask the dealer to show you a shop manual for the motor; that will list the optimal compression....it will be a little lower no doubt, given 10 years of wear and tear, but again, it shouldn't be much lower, and the cylinders should be very close, with one having a 10-15% drop. Buying a boat on consignment is no different than buying it straight from the owner, except the dealer will pocket around 30% of the sale, as an educated guess...you won't gain any extra protection....I'd look around for used boat from a dealer who will give at least a limited warranty, unless he's giving the boat away....also check the NADA website for an idea of book value....around my area, NADA prices tend to be below market, but you at least get an idea of the ballpark you should be in.... Good luck.

What kind of warranty are they offering? Even a short warranty affords you the chance to drive straight from the selling dealer to a reputable boat tech in the area, and get the boat surveyed. I assume you didn't witness the compression test, so you have only the dealer's word on it.....If the tech finds troubles, get a work proposal written up, take it back to the dealer, and let the games begin.....even better is if you can hire a tech to go with you on a test drive with the dealer.....around here, marine surveyors are easy to come by. A few hundred dollars invested in their time to be sure the boat is sound can save thousands.

If that's the case, that would drive me nuts......I'd sure keep a close eye on the holes so they don't get out of round and oversized, and on the pin condition....

My 95 Nitro is up the cottage....I was going up Sunday to check on the place, but we're about to get clobbered with a snow storm Saturday afternoon thru Sunday evening. I wouldn't even try to guess at size; I called Nitro last fall to see about new decals, and you're right, they don't have that style anymore. They referred me to my local Nitro dealer when I asked if they new of aftermarket suppliers, and the local guy didn't. Custom must be the only way to go....if you don't get the info you need, I'll measure them next weekend for you if you let me know.

I'm bad; it only comes out if it needs to. makes the water stains harder to remove in the fall, but I find that pool liner cleaner does a good job. Growth isn't much of a problem on the lake; nothing like the salt water stuff.

I've got some nice pictures on my office wall. In addition to the show off factor, which is not insignificant, by the way, they get me through annoying days at work... when I look at them, I picture myself out on the lake.....usually, I picture myself fishing with the particular employee causing me stress at the moment....we always have the lake completely to ourselves, with only the Osprey and Hawks, and the occasional deer drinking at the shore....we have a great day on the water, catching huge bass after huge bass. As the day ends, and he or she leans over to pull the trolling motor, I wrap the anchor chain around their neck, a quick hip into their butt, hit the throttle, and go.....I always feel better..... Oh yeah, to mount or not...nah, I'd rather release the real thing, and I'm way too cheap to spend the $$$$$ for a replica......

The trailer might have an adjustable axle; sounds like your axle might be too far forward, placing too much weight at the rear of the trailer. Talk to the dealer, and see if it's adjustable. I'll bet it is. That "jerking up and down" is unweighting the rear end of your vehicle. Besides beating your shocks and springs to death, it can mess up your braking, especially ABS braking, in an emergency stop. You want to be at a balance point where you can easily lift the trailer, but it won't be weighted so far back that it bounces like it's doing.

Two reasons I know of to keep the motor in the down position when parked: 1.) If in an area where freezing can occur, water can collect in the prop shaft housing area, freeze, and crack the housing if the motor is tilted up. 2.) Some motors, especially older motors, continue to pull fuel through the carbs when the carbs are tipped forward; this wastes fuel, and can cause flooding of the carbs, which leads to harder starting. You might be getting some flooding when trailering to the ramp, leading to the hard start. You might want to try cranking without priming and see if starts quicker when you first launch. You could also try disconnecting the fuel line if it's an accessible quick attachment, before you tilt the motor up. Just remember to reattach before you launch, after you've tilted the motor down. (Been there, done that, heard the hooting from the shore....). These tricks might save tearing the carbs down to replace floats and/or needles and seats. BUT ....4-5 cranks, unless each one is really long, is pretty darn good for a twenty-year-old motor.....

I've got one of those big round oil collection containers from Wal-Mart that has a dished surface. I put it under my motor and slowly lower the motor done over it. (Remeber to remove the plug that covers the collection hole.) Loosen the top hole screws, then remove the screw in the drain hole, then remove the top screws. Little muss, little fuss. Have some paper towels handy to wipe off excess old and new oil. You're in business.

If you don't have a manual, email Minn Kota and see if you can get one. It sounds to me like there's an overheat protector in the motor that's kicking out, then resetting when the motor cools. If that's the case, either something like fishing line as mentioned above, or defective/corroded/undersized wiring, or bad connection is causing problem. Doubt it's a breaker, as that should stay tripped until manually reset or replaced.

Hmmmpppffff...looks like the bait LBH and I use up here in New England livelining for Smallies..... Seriously, there's no way I could get a bass like that in the boat....I'd have a freaking heart attack when I saw it as I went went to lip it, fall out of the boat, and drown. What's the weight on that puppy?

This is more fodder for the PETA people. A friend of mine was fishing on El Salto in Mexico when JH was filming there; he told me JH would hold up a 3-4 lb. bass, and tell the camera it was 8-9 lbs. He said all the guides made fun of him. I was skeptical, until I realized that watching the Bassmaster shows on TV, I'm often way off on the size of the fish when they first boat them, especially those above three lbs. I guess he could get away with it. What a "sportsman"......

The motor will "work" on about anything; the question is, what are looking to do with it? It isn't going very fast no matter what you put it on. If you're a big guy, it's going even slower. If you're not overly large, I'd think it would do OK on a 15' fiberglass, my buddy has a 9.9 on a 12' fiberglass Sears Gamefisher jon-style boat. Just don't try to take it the length of Sam Rayburn or across Champlain, and you'll do OK.