Marty

I can't really tell from the pictures, but they seem like nice pickerel. If you don't want to carry a scale, I'd recommend at least a tape measure. I never fish without one.

These baits can be fished in a variety of ways. My personal preference is to fish them like I do a spinnerbait, fairly high in the water column and over and through weeds.

Can you explain why so much line? I like to use alot less, but I have no knowledge of any of the principals behind anchor usage.thanks. "Tests have shown that the correct size anchor of any reputable design pulled horizontally, is more likely to hold than an oversize anchor pulled upwards." Read more here: http://www.anchorbuddy.co.nz/anchoring.html

You can also check with your DNR and/or cooperative extension to see if there is a guide to Kansas fishes which you could take with you. We have such a guide for New York, but I learned to ID many years ago. Another thing you can do (I just did this last year, but for aquatic vegetation) is to print out the pictures and descriptions of the common fish and put together your own little field guide.

Hopefully, you'll be able to stand as time passes. In the meantime, I would think you'll improve your sitting results with each successive outing. Good luck.

Does the plastic bag remove any of the protective slime? Or do you wet the bag?

For 5" Senkos and clones, I use a 4/0 extra-wide-gap. My general rule of thumb is to use a hook with a gap of at least double the diameter of the plastic. That way, when it's rigged, there is enough remaining gap to get through the plastic and into the fish.

I agree with the above except that the label position is meaningless, because they vary. The supply spool should be on the floor such that the line comes off counterclockwise. Your line goes on the reel clockwise and each time it does it puts a clockwise twist into the line. You want the line coming off the supply spool the opposite way to partially offset the clockwise twists. I say partially, because you can't completely offset it because of the difference in spool sizes.

As previously stated, the charts can be very inaccurate for a variety of reasons. Nevertheless, I use them for the majority of my fish because I only weigh the big ones and don't need exactness on the others. These are New York's charts. http://www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/9222.html

http://bplures.com/gogo.html

That's one of the possibilities I've looked at, although I don't know if I could get away with the 1.5# or if I'd need the 3#. Are they good for soft bottoms?

Thanks for the replies. I don't know what sash weights are.

I don't believe it matters. If you get on a huge fish that runs out all your line down to the spool, that line's gonna break regardless of knot. I think your winging it is just fine.

Is the Fireline tied directly to the reel spool? Many superlines slip on a spool and cause problems that seem like faulty drags. If it is directly tied, attach some mono backing to the spool and attach the Fireline to the mono and see if that solves the problem.

I don't know what a "spin bell type reel" is, spinning or spincast. But your subject line is "Small crankbait" and small is a relative term. Is it 1/16 oz? 1/4 oz? How heavy is your rod? What kind of 10# line, relatively small or large diameter? All these factors can influence casting distance, as well as the aerodynamic characteristics of the lures. In general, I'd use 4# line for 1/16 oz. lures, 6# or 8# for 1/8 oz. and 10# for 3/16+. But there's lots of overlap. With all due respect to Deuceu72, I don't understand how a baitcast can help, since spin gear generally handles light lures better.

I can't answer your questions and I've never attempted to measure the actual diameter of Power Pro or any other line. But the literature packed with PP line says that 20# is the diameter of 6# mono and has an actual diameter of .009". Trilene XL in 6# has a diameter of .009 and Stren is .010. So I guess the answer must be that PP is "inaccurate" in the stated diameters of their line. I just started using PP this year in 15# test (supposedly 4# mono equivalent), but just added about 50 yards to mono backing so I don't know anything about the spool capacity issue.

Ugly Stiks are indestructible rods, but some people don't care for them because they think they're too heavy, not sensitive enough and have an action that's too slow.

What is a recommended weight and style of anchor for a canoe? Mud bottoms, water generally less than 10' and moderate winds, generally less than 15.

You could use the New York charts, but keep in mind that these can be off significantly depending on time of year and other factors. http://www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/9222.html I wouldn't count a PB unless it was weighed, but it's a personal thing. If you're comfortable with it, go for it.

Agree with the above, but I use a 4/0 extra wide gap. I also love to fish them in weed beds, retrieving them over, around and through the weeds, letting them sink into holes in the weeds and at the edges.

Agree with ghoti. All other things equal, a larger spool offers better line performance.

http://www.stltoday.com/stltoday/news/stories.nsf/missouristatenews/story/B2C935529160A78D862572D90015B9F8?OpenDocument

I use thin-walled tubes in 3.5" and 4". I use extra-wide-gap hooks, 3/0 for the former and 4/0 for the latter.

There is an alternative which I use and many others do as well. That is to take off just enough of the old line so there's room to put on 50-60 yards of new line. It's more economical and you generally don't need more line for bass fishing. The line that stays on the reel is called "backing." I tie the new line to the backing with a uni-to-uni knot.

As has been said, everybody loses fish on crankbaits. Double -check that your hooks are needle sharp.