Delaware Valley Tackle

What you're seeing is likely just an optical illusion caused by slightly out of square machining of the drag star. The drag can protect more than the line. I'm not an advocate of running them on lock down but if you must, loosen it when done for the day.

If simple green etc won't get the stain try denatured or rubbing alcohol.

Lews are fine reels but I find the assertion that they have Shimano on the run kinda funny. You'll make yourself nuts trying to psycho analyze why corporations do what they do. Just jump on the best deal on the reel with the features you like.

There's nothing mechanically wrong with the t wing design. It works well but is not the game changer the marketing suggests. They're good reels at a good price

Micro is a term used to describe a range of sizes. A well tied Albright joining 50# braid and 14# mono will pass a size 4.5 guide with no problem.

I have no personal experience with that rod. What characteristics that set it apart are you looking to duplicate?

Can you elaborate on what you're trying to match? HM85 doesn't ring any bells initially. Is that an NFC reference? Can you elaborate on what you're trying to match? HM85 doesn't ring any bells initially. Is that an NFC reference?

Hopefully This spring I'll carve out a few minutes to build a spiral demo stand. You'd be amazed at how little weight it takes to twist the blank. Certainly not insurmountable in bass fishing but 99% of what we discuss is a game of inches. This just one more little tweak we can do. The public at large just can't get past the unconventional look I think is why you don't see production rods done this way.

That's putting it politely.

Guides are like blanks, reels or anything else as in there are diminishing returns as you approach the high end offerings. Whether or not Torzite, Sic or titanium are worth the cost depends on the budget and goals for the build. For a freshwater bass rod the compromise I've settled on is Fuji SS k frame with Alconite rings. Weight, durability and price are all good. Alps are a reasonable choice as well. Rare are the opportunities to do a build with zero constraints of budget, time, availability etc.

People that use it seem to like it once they get it dialed in. I'm just not into change for change sake. I realize the competitive nature of the industry requires this sort of thing and just deal with it. Lol

I liked the set it and forget it regular centrifugal brakes myself.

Fwiw the dial on the curado is not a mag brake, rather an extra adjustment for the centrifugal brake.

Thank you, I'm glad you're pleased with the results. A tuned and maintained reel is a pleasure to fish isn't it?

The T wing grooving issue has been addressed. That said, the T wing is kinda cool but not a game changer imo. The good casting of those reels can be attributed to basic Daiwa quality and unique brake design. There's a lot of competition between quality reels at each price point especially north of $100. I don't see any one brand having a lock on every level. I fish mostly Shimano and Daiwa but have Revos, pq, Pfluegers, Ambassaduers and others that I like as well.

Shimano often sends small hardware like that free of charge. Worst case I'd think $6 or so. If want me to fix it and go thru the whole thing it's $19.80 plus parts and shipping for members here.

Right, it's custom si get exactly what YOU want. Experimenting is half the fun. It'll be better than any over the counter rod and if it's not exactly what you're looking for you have an excuse for another build. If that doesn't excite you, you might in this for the wrong reason.

There's a plastic spacer, washer and e clip missing. Easy fix. Contact me if you need help.

Yes and that's arguably the hardest step to master.

Looks good. Trimming a blank from either end slows the action slightly. Trimming from the tip raises the low end of the lure weight range. I'd expect trimming from the butt to decrease deadlift capacity to some extent. The only way to quantify is to run CCS tests. Suffice it to say if it works it works call it UL, ML etc.

It's hard to tell without holding it. I'd check for any rub marks from rotor wobble. It's not uncommon that's why reels have counter balance weights in the rotor. If you plan on addressing it yourself start at the spool and take it down a piece at a time while checking for noise. If you want to send it in I'll look into it. Remember to provide your screen name to get the members discount. 10% off labor.

What I was trying to say is power ratings are even more subjective. Look at the lure weight ratings first. Find choices where the weight you cast most falls in the mid range. Ex 1/4-3/4 the sweet spot will be around 1/2oz. Give or take. This might be labeled M or MH. Then consider the cover and fish size. Thick brush or weeds pick the one with the most substantial backbone. In this example it would be the MH. You can't say which brands labels are most accurate because there is no industry standard for any of it. Posts and comments that refer to "true MH" etc are inaccurate. If anything "typical" could be substituted. Post with as much detail as possible what you want to do with a rod and take suggestions, compare and choose. At the end of the day only fishing it will tell the whole story.

one xf may not be all that much different from someone else's F. This is all so subjective don't lose too much sleep over it. What could be considered or labeled as xf make good rods for finesse fishing sluggish light biting fish , reel setting drop shot hooks, or inducing light action to jerkbaits if the tip is also soft.

Functionally it will be fine. If it drives you to distraction it's an easy fix for a local builder.

There should be zero lateral movement of the spool when properly adjusted. If not the reel is not right. If it's new enough, exchange it.