Delaware Valley Tackle

Don't mess the spool they're too delicate. You can try a real light drop of oil on the spool rim but I avoid that as it will almost always slow the spool down. Try some grease on the main shaft where the AR sleeve rides. Factories over lube to such a degree it's not uncommon for some sound to appear when they're cleaned out. I can't say if its normal or not without seeing it.

Without seeing it my guess would be that the grip is somewhat shorter than on a typical 7' so the "effective length " for lack of a better word is probably very close to a 7'. It should do about anything appropriate for the power and action. Close work with a 3/4 oz spinner or deep vertical jigging come to mind

What don't you like about what you have? What do you want to do with the rod?

I don't pay full retail for much of anything. The G wasn't the most refined version but still a good solid reel. Some sellers are funny. There was a citica D in a case at a Walmart for years and every time I tried to get it all they'd do 10% off msrp, as much as the current model. Hold out or look for good second hand ones.

It depends on how "heavy" the power is and the size of the baits. If the rod will load and cast well you're good.

Mechanically they're practically identical. Outside of the 70 throwing lighter baits more comfortably it's just preference.

If I remember that's a dry drag system. Id start there. The main drag washer is a white pressed material, yes? Sounds like the scuff marks are on the AR sleeve, a separate part from the AR bearing. Won't hurt to replace it. I'd put a revo Carbontex drag kit in instead of new OEM

Dry fitting is standard MO here too. Good luck with your build.

Probably 6-7" it's personal preference. I like to still have a little butt against my forearm.

I skip titanium unless exposure to saltwater is likely. I agree that they look rich though.

This isn't all that rare. It's not "right" per say but it doesn't necessarily warrant return. If the handle is turned in a positive manner as in normal fishing you probably won't experience any problem. If so return it then. After the first cleaning it will likely work better too.

That part would be used in place of the current one not over top. Best bet is a chair leg cap.

That's just a little over run on the epoxy. The guides will flex there a small amount. Nothing to worry about. If the epoxy gets moisture under it you can have it rewrapped in the meantime it's better left alone.

I suggest something with centrifugal brakes either stand alone or dual brakes. A second hand citica or revo S are affordable and will perform well as you become more proficient.

I like a fast or xf action except for crankbaits and extra heavy slop rods.

It's all good. Whatever puts a tug on the line any given time is my favorite (at thevtime).

The inference is toward Gloomis. They used to sell blanks. Mud hole was their biggest distributor and created MHX to fill the void left when Gloomis got out of the blank business.

The elite pro is a higher modulus. They are extra reinforced compared to the HM line. They're designed to withstand tournament use durability is non problem. Whether they're worth the extra $ is up to you. Myself I reserve HM blanks for finesse rods. The standards are no slouch especially for the price.

Cleaning the Eva with simple green or alcohol should bring them back. Light sanding is ok but 100 is way too course. 250 or 400 is a better choice.

A number of new reels have an artificially smooth feel out of the box from being so over lubricated. It's not all that unusual for a clean, freed up reel to have a little more sound. I can't tell from here if that's your case or not. Worn out gear sets are not all that common but anything is possible as evidenced by ww2farmers story.

I don't see any advantage in loading a reel with a lot of expensive line that will never see the light of day. I spool about 70 yards of braid , 2 long casts worth. Use small diameter backing and a slim knot you should be good.

$20 barely covers packing and postage. Whether it's built in or added on its reasonable.

What do you want to do with it? I'd suggest a med mod for cranks

Technically pitching is just a casting technique you can do with any rod nutcas with any cast the rod must load sufficiently to be effective. A typical MH work likely work better than the Hvy you mentioned. It depends on the jig.

I stand corrected. The $129 was likely a JM model. Point remains though the PQ is a value at list and even more so on sale.