Delaware Valley Tackle

Deep cleaning and lubrication will likely help those used reels.

In all but the heaviest applications braid test is all about handling. 50# works fine for me as an all around size. 30 casts a hair better if max distance is required and thinner will dive better if cranking with it.

Warm gently with a hair dryer. No hotter than you can handle bare handed. Use a razor on top of the foot to get the threads loose. As you unwind the thread it should peel off most of the epoxy. Warm and scrape remaining epoxy with a plastic tool or thumb nail. If you're careful you can use a razor blade but only perpendicular to the Rod

100%. Communication is key.

Lews contracts with the same factory but they are separate business entities. ABU has been good with my dealings with them. even though the reel in question is an entry level reel, the likelihood of three lemons to the same consumer seems unlikely. Is it possible that that they are working but just not what you're used to?

I agree , rewrapping is the "right " way to fix them but if appearance is of little concern you might be able to peel off the old stuff especially if it's separated already. Gentle heat and a thumbnail is all I'd use.

You could pull them and measure to be sure.

The Carbontex drag is arguably the biggest bang for the buck upgrade for most reels.

The Calcutta 200TE kit fits the Core mg7 if that helps.

It's not rocket science, but it's not for everyone either. I'm here if/when needed.

lighter than listed baits won't hurt anything other than performance. Over loading a Rod can break the tip if you're not careful. Lobbing a bait a size or two over the listed max should be safe. 1/2 to 3/4 is a 50% jump. The Rod would feel mushy working the bait in addition

Good advice so far. Feel free to contact me with any model specific questions

Use the proper orientation: () nothing to be gained switching them.

Mine are custom of course, but they are med or mh with a fast but soft action. These are sometimes referred to as popping blanks.

Mick, IMO the main advantage of Super Tuning (or other steps to improve free spool) is that the easier startup leads to better accuracy. In some instances there can be distance improvement as well but that's icing on the cake. Some shops charge to tune free floating spool models (Daiwa, Revos etc) but there's nothing to be gained there as the friction points are taken out of play. When done properly the reel is actually easier to control as it requires less applied force to get started. A lot of the things we discuss on the forum could be, and often are, seen as frivolous but it's fun and just needs to be kept in perspective. I see a lot of people blowing the advantages of Super Tuning way out of proportion. I don't want to be "that guy" I'm glad to speak with anyone about their specific circumstances and goals and offer recommendations based on that . PM, email and calls are all welcomed.

It depends on the models being compared. The internals are identical for the most part. Handles will interchange, spools will not for the most part due to the full floating design in most ABUs

I use that Kigan keeper a lot. I've used Rec fly guides as keepers on cranking rods and guys like them.

When building a custom Rod physical stature is taken into consideration as far as handle design (length and diameter) but overall length is dictated by application. A 5' lady can fish a 9' fly rod and a 6'5 guy may want a 6' shooter for skipping under docks

All we would change is two spool bearings and even then, I'll clean and spin test the stockers to see what's to be gained. My suggestion would be to first invest the extra money in Super Tuning - $34 vs $22 for just a cleaning. Members get 10% off labor.

To me, changing colors (and some other details ) "correlation without causation ". There's no way to know if you would have caught the fish or not if you hadn't changed.

Fwiw the reel you junked can be fixed for about $8 DIY

Soaking the line is meant to be done to the filler spool to get better line lay and less twist. Reels are tolerant of exposure to water but are not meant to be dunked or submerged.

The fix is to drill two 5/32 holes in the seat and inject a fluid epoxy adhesive. The second hole lets the air out so the epoxy gets in. I've done a number this way and so far have held up. Otherwise split the seat to remove and install a new one from the back end.

What braid? In what conditions ? Modern braid and guides should be compatible for the most part. It's actually the debris picked up by the line that's abrasive.

Trimming a blank from either end slows the action. To what degree it's affected depends on all the variables between blanks. The only way to really measure it is with the Common Cents System but you're getting into real Rod building geek territory. Try it out and see what happens.