Delaware Valley Tackle

Spinning a handle isn't a normal fishing motion and really doesn't tell you much if anything. See how the reel feels and performs in actual fishing and base opinions on that. Reels have a lot of moving parts so some sound can be expected. Often, they feel artificially smooth and quiet when new due to over lubrication.

Not being able to strip line by hand yet slipping on a mild hook set don't jive with one another. I'll have a look at it if you want. Or you can call or email to troubleshoot in more detail

Reminds me of that silly gear box to demonstrate oil that you see on the counter in auto parts stores.

Cheap cast aluminum can be pretty porous and not all that strong. There are all different carbon fiber and graphite materials too . Long story short, material alone doesn't tell the whole story.

Closing the bail by hand is good practice. Make sure the line roller is right on top if you want the bail trip to work smoothly. What's likely happening is the trip lever is too close to the ramp and binds a bit initially

Any blank will bend into the handle of enough force is applied. A "parabolic " blank is slower than slow.

I tend to agree here.

Casting distance has much less to do with the reel than you think, especially when comparing reels of somewhat similar quality.

A Fuji BLAG 5.5 flowers by size 3 or 4 micros to the tip.

http://www.mudhole.com//Fuji-ACS-Trigger-Reel-Seat

The mag taper has a beefier butt section. The action and tip power are very close.

Exposed blank seats are pre sized to fit the blank where you want it. Otherwise use a foam arbor.

The ml MHX is a nice blank if used within its limits. I do the same except in a spinning design.

The spinnerbait comment is what got my eye. They're sold by weight of the head so by the time you add wire, blades, skirt and trailer the weight is way more. The heavy hook needs some power to set too.

You may find that ml blank under powered for some of the applications you listed.

The reel seat has no affect on the BFS application of the Rod one way or the other. The minima seat is a love it or hate it proposition. If you've never used one i wouldn't gamble on a custom build. I'd go with an exposed blank seat with threads trimmed flush to the hood with a reel mounted.

You could but you'll get more backbone by using a 7'6" or extending a 7'.

There are varying versions of popping blanks. Some are fast action with a soft tip, others more of a mod fast or mod. I think a popping Rod is a better choice for the chatter bait as it will get to the backbone quicker than a traditional cranking blank. Given what and where you fish I'd lean toward the heavier power in a 7'6". There are lots of good blanks that fit the bill. I'll be doing some shopping later and will flag a couple.

The term "custom" gets thrown around in some pretty loose ways. My philosophy is that form follows function so all builds focus on performance and comfort first and bling to whatever level circumstance and budget allow is second.

Not at all. I find myself leaning more and more toward ML power for spinning applications.

The pin Rod works well for float-n-fly presentation too.

My understanding is that fly rods are not allowed under the new rules either.

Not to complicate matters but the true measure of a reels retrieve speed is IPT inches per turn of the handle. A 5:1 or 24 ipt < reel has a mechanical advantage retrieving deep cranks (15'>). Other applications of ratio are personal preference.

I concur. I'd approach it the same way. Cost wise , it wouldn't break the bank but shipping adds up and might be a deal breaker

Ipt is measured at full spool so, no changing spools won't affect ipt