Delaware Valley Tackle

Even with the chart it's a crap shoot due to manufacturing variables. Best bet is to dry fit the seat and grips and take measurements.

There's nothing special about "reel" oil. Marine grease on gears, 80-140 gear oil on level wind , non spool bearings and sliding parts, 3in1, Remoil or sewing machine oil for spool bearings.

If you palm a casting reel that's right at the fulcrum so I don't see much of any difference by using a heavier reel. I'm also not a proponent of adding weight especially to a Rod you paid extra for to get light weight. If you must, adding as little weight as you can get away with to the very end is the most efficient approach.

Ya you want to use the ultimate number of guides which may be more or less than something else. Spline is 1980's theory that has been largely replaced by straightest axis but it's all debatable . Overall it's nice to see the craft and advantages of custom rods being supported and presented to an audience like BassResource.com.

Replacing the felt drag washers with Carbontex often corrects wet weather binding. Drying and greasing the felt ones can be a short term fix.

When purchasing or building a Rod there are several tangle free guides to use but that doesn't help much in this case. A little heavier braid might help.

A quick dunk in relatively clear water shouldn't harm anything. Laying out to dry and oiling hinges etc should suffice. If symptoms arise or worsen a tear down and deep cleaning is in order.

Half and half. Ream more than foam but a tighter fit than cork. They'll stretch s little but you'll tear the skin off if you pull too hard.

Unless you need the extra power to deal with cover the MH should more than do it.

It's a great craft be it hobby or more! I clear something with every build and reading in between.

Talk to a custom builder(if you know one)?

Just because spinning reels are mechanical in their casting doesn't mean they are lacking in technology. There is a point of diminishing returns when purchasing any higher end item. The value depends totally on the purchaser and their priorities . JF had a great point regarding the complexity of some high end spinners.

The Winn grips are about as close as you'll find to those. They feel decent and have held up to this point.

Flip the ratchet over and look at the kick lever for wear

The heavier Rod would get by flipping and pitching but to load and cast those weights the Mh will likely work better

Right don't scrimp on the line.

Improved free spool won't cause the problems you describe. Something else is misassembled.

Usually the binding comes from the roller clutch not seated completely into the side plate. The sleeve being seized inside the roller is something else.

If the line is stacking it's an adjustment issue. Pull the spool off and add one the spare little plastic washers that came with it.

Of all the concerns related to fishing, braid bleed is somewhere below ankle/tube/or no socks.

How do you like that seat hood? Better than trimmed threads ?

Lubricants really just need to leave a micro layer on the parts where they mesh in order to prevent friction wear. The thickeners in grease don't lubricate anything rather are a medium to carry an oil and hold it in place. Over packing a reel with grease gives a false sense of smoothness that disappears rapidly with use. "Smooth" is another subjective term that gets bantered about with no way of being measured or qualified consistently. JF called it when he suggested deep cleaning and proper lubrication. IMO gear sets are over diagnosed as worn out.

Core all day every day.

X2. Even dry They're consistently smooth right from start up Lighten up on the drag and your reels will thank you. Personally I enjoy playing the fish a little. In the grand scheme bass don't fight all that hard and just horsing them in takes from the moment

Never open a reel without a schematic. Also keep in mind that they are primarily a parts list and don't necessarily show part orientation or assembly order. The camera is a good tip.