Delaware Valley Tackle

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Performance wise, little if at all

Don't pay for Super Tuning on full floating spool designs. The friction points typically polished are taken out of play by the design.

I just had a similar question from a customer. Exceptionally heavy baits may not be "stopped" by the cast control, and don't need to be.

Sounds like either the rubber O ring or a spacer is missing. Check it against a schematic or send it in and I'll look into it.

I'd use something from their popping blank line or a Rod geeks xs. Both have fast actions but a soft tip. The Rod geeks blank is also a very good worm Rod.

There's nothing in there to required disassembly for cleaning going forward. Syncing the dial and mags can be a pain. If you want to email or call I'll try to help you or you can send it in and I'll take care of it.

Seems to me a golf grip would get a lot more stress than a Rod grip. Only time will tell.

There's no conversion because there's no standard. Different lines of the same #test can have different diameters. Suffice to say if you go up significantly in diameter you can expect significantly less capacity. For bass fishing line capacity isn't that big a concern usually.

The Winn grips are so plush they may give the mis impression of being non durable. I haven't had any complaints of such as of yet.

Braids small diameter will get you a little more depth in addition to the lack of stretch. That said I run 10# mono on a glass Rod (Lamiglas sr765) and can feel baits vibrate. If you have to contend with zebra mussels braid will need a leader.

You're focusing too much on the one aspect of the line. The Rod length, power, action, lure weight, reel, line, conditions and more all factor in. Trial and error is the only way to arrive at the best mix to accomplish the goal.

The Winn grips are nice but they require a little extra care when installing. They need to be reamed closer to size than EVA and you have to be sure to not twist the skin off.

A slower action doesn't necessarily cast farther. Loading more of a wimpy Rod won't do anything for you for example. The most important thing is to select a Rod with proper lure weight range. The sweet spot is usually in the upper mid range. Quality braid that is spooled correctly will not adversely affect casting in most cases.

A faster action doesn't necessarily equal a stiffer tip. I use popping blanks and other fast yet soft tip blanks for top water, jerkbaits and flukes. Weightless worm will fish well enough on either.

A double foot 6, 20" from the reel, then either 4.5 or 5.5 to the tip. Forget charts and static test for placement.

Whether braid or mono, a supple line is one key. The Rod you're using is on the heavy side for those baits. For max distance choose a Rod where the bait weight is a little over the mid range of the listing. You'll have to experiment to find the sweet spot. Flush and oil the spool bearings and wipe any grease or oil from the spool shaft and frame. Going forward , for raw distance an appropriate spinning rig can't be beat.

Technique specific Rod labels are just suggestions. Don't be afraid to experiment.

Buy a Daiwa and mod it yourself. Megabass doesn't have any magic.

I have a client fishing Mexican big bass lakes with that blank. He loves it. I'd like to see a lighter power in that line.

The same people that switch hands crank spinners with their left lots of times. For me holding the Rod with my dominant hand is more comfortable. There's no right or wrong.

Both are well built reels. Features wise the Pflueger spinners are hard to beat on a bang for the buck basis.

The rule of thumb is to set drag at 1/3 of #test (for braid #test diameter equivalent). Ex: 4# of drag on 12# line. You can check it with a spring scale but feel is fine.

Metal ferrules to keep a two piece . If it were me, I'd do a splice. Use scrap from a glass blank and for that section I'd do an insert and a thin sleeve.

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