Delaware Valley Tackle

Random is the understatement of the year so far. Lol

I fish the lightest I can get away with in a given circumstance. This applies to braid as well. When I say lightest I'm talking diameter not breaking strength.

Zebra mussels cut braid like nothing. Fluoro or a co poly is my choice for them either as a long leader or main line. Each has its place and arguments for both have merit. If you want to experiment go ahead. If that's not your thing stick with what works for you.

As long as the guide passes the knot there's no problem.

Try not filling the spool quite as full, closing the bail manually and give the line a tug, line conditioner (LCD l&l) and consider 15-20# braid.

Whatever the topic, don't try to be convinced if you aren't. Read and listen with an open mind then make your own decision factoring in your own experience. So many times evidence offered is anecdotal with correlation but not necessarily causation. Arguably the most important aspect is confidence in what you're doing rather than the details.

Look at the pin on the spool and see if it's bent. If you want to send it in I'll be glad to look into it.

I also prefer the 2500/3000 size reels for bass fishing. Mono/ Fluoro above 8# is easier to handle on the bigger spool but like Jfranco I'd go to braid.

My guess is that oil or grease has migrated into the drag. Upgrade to carbontex is only $8-10

There are any number of solvents that will work. I'm. It familiar with that particular one. Don't over think it. I use the process in my original post every day with good results.

The drag may not be designed to lock down but it seems a little weak in the vid. Hard to say from a distance. If you want to send it in I'll be happy to take a look. Fwiw I recently tried to contact them about another customers reel and 8 messages over two weeks went unanswered.

If you're using backing the joining knot can catch and cause uneven loading.

I agree that the flipping switch is am unnecessary weak link.

It may be ascent simple as something not seated fully. First step is to loosen the cast cap, and take off the palm side cover and spool. Replace them and see if that does it.

Not only is it ok, it's a good idea. Thevrod doesn't know if your in salt water or not.

No it goes at the base of the threads on the side plate and the cap snugs up against it.

Go to the hardware store and grab a rubber o ring to fit the threads the cast control goes on. That should keep the cap adjustment from moving. There was probably one there at some point.

A logical case can be made for several lines for the same application. For me, braid offers the no stretch sensitivity and line management I want. I'll occasionally add a leader for certain conditions. I see the logic in using the stiff Fluoro for semi slack presentations but in my experience I don't think I'm missing out by not going that route.

Line weight markings on reels are just a reference point for spool capacity. Not recommendations per say.

1. PQ 2. Aird 3. Lews laser mg even at $99 the pq is the best value on a feature for feature benefit. I give a nod to the Aird for Daiwa braking.

I would reconsider the split seat on your first attempt. Placement and alignment are extra considerations you may not want to deal with. Ck out AmTacks Aero seat.

You can write anything you want on a rod. Many if not most rods are happiest in a small range like that in actual use. Likewise thevtidcin question will surely cast weights on either or both sides of the posted numbers.

Reels don't cast, rods do. Low quality reels can impede casting though. Braking systems and your preference for one or another make a difference too

Just saw your email. I'll have something for you later this afternoon.

Buy with confidence. Same platform as lews, revos, pq, johnny Morris and others.