Delaware Valley Tackle

I agree with accuracy being the biggest advantage of improved free spool but there are other equally effective methods beside bearings to accomplish that

I agree with getting a rod with a little more power. Problem is mh is subjective and varies between brands. You want a stout mh like a st croix or a hvy from another line. Look for a lure rating of 3/8-1oz or there about

Can you share any details on the reel and what led up to this problem?

On some reels the nose piece blocks the pawl cap so you may have to open the reel to even do that. Service is <$20 for members. Shipping and parts are extra. There are videos on you tube etc but take each with a grain of salt. Trial and error are a big part of learning reels.

You pretty much answered your own question. The LH feels better and more natural ho for it.

Flipping switches are a useless feature and mechanical weak point imo.

The drag should be set to a level that will protect the line, rod and reel regardless of technique or tackle style.

If you really want to test the waters wrap one on a cardboard box with v grooves and babysit the epoxy turning by hand. It's a little tedious but gives a good insight into how epoxy behaves.

I agree with accuracy being paramount but have no issues at all with spinning tackle in that regard.

He did you clean and lube the anti reverse? It's either dirty, over lubed or worn out

Whether it's on a reel or a filler spool, line comes off the bottom when spooling a spinning reel and off the top filling a casting reel.

Reels don't require anything special other than on greased drags andvdrsg grease works fine on gears. If you need drag grease marine grease or superlube work well. Gear oil on sliding parts, level wind and non spool bearings. Remoil or other light oil on spool bearings.

Have a helper hold the casting rod upside down so the line comes off the bottom of the spool. This helps keep the line from twisting.

OP is it safe to assume you're single? My wife is cool but she'd beat me like a rented mule if she came home to that.

The exposed nature of the level wind contributes to potential for wear but I'd concentrate on maintenance rather than stockpiling parts.

I saw the Stradic listed as a "budget "reel and couldn't go any further.

Power is the rods resistance to flex (stiffness). Action is simply where the rod initially flexes as load is applied.

Action has nothing to do with the stiffness or lack there if of the tip. There may or may not be a correlation in a given line. It's up to the maker.

The rule of thumb is to set drag pressure at 2/3 of line test. With braid go by mono diameter equivalent. I don't advise locking it down for any application. Hitting the spool release with pressure on the line is abusing your reel and asking for trouble. Specifically pinion gears and spool drive pins.

Mine wore through from dragging yo launch. Fiberglass patch is the way to go.

Nothing special needed there.

Baits are sold by the weight of the lead head not total weight. Skirts, wires, blades, trailers all add to that.

A slower rod will not necessarily load better. A fast tip can be soft and a mod tip can be stiff.

Don't expect the lews to be significantly different from the corresponding revo. Flipping only requires a sturdy frame and good drag.

On paper the Lews/ABU design is inferior in that the pionion gear is unsupported by any bearing. In use I don't see that it hampers performance though. I don't care for the skimpy hardware Shimano and others are using. Only time will tell when it comes to longevity. Each brand and model has unique features and flaws. If you had the tooling to blend them all into an ultimate reel they'd all have something to offer. I don't think any one brand has a monopoly on quality across the board.