Delaware Valley Tackle

We've all been there.

Same thing. That's a take away from the float and fly rig. Best in cold water for inactive suspended fish.

More often than not, it's not the clutch itself that accounts for backplay. It's the fit of the sleeve around the drive shaft and in the key washer. Not much that can be done about it. If the reel works well in regular use don't worry about it.

I'm pretty sure the TFO rods are just signature series and Gary had little to no input design wise. His new company is Northfork which makes blanks and had a rod line but may have recently quit rods.

Rods of the same power in the same lineup shouldn't vary depending on length, but it depends on the manufacturer. They can put any label they want on a rod. All you can do is handle one and see if it feels right then the proof will be in actual fishing

A wacky rigged what? A 5" senko is well within casting tackle capabilities. A 4" finesse worm is possibly ML spinning tackle in open water. Basically whatever tackle you'd fish other similar weighted baits with will work fine. The fact that it's wacky rigged as opposed to t rig or anything else is irrelevant.

I recommend a mod/fast graphite rod to my customers for shallow cranks. I find it easier to steer the bait through and around shoreline cover with a slightly crisper rod.

I keep colors of plastics for bass very simple: black/purple, green pumpkin, watermelon red, smoke/shad/white. Forage and water clarity determine which I throw.

Gary was long gone by the time nrx came around. He was a pioneer and still makes nice blanks but the offerings are somewhat limited and the prices are high.

Which of us is the arbiter of this? Until CCS or another definitive system is adopted by the industry there can be no standard barer or poster child.

Moving baits don't require anything special as far as a reel goes but they are more enjoyable on a smooth reel. The exceptions being extra heavy and high resistance baits where a low ratio/ipt reel comes in handy. Distance is affected by a variety of details but the reel is the least of it once properly setup and lubricated.

For non spool bearings and sliding parts any 80w-140 gear oil from the automotive section.

Contact Outdoor World directly. There usually very helpful

If the bearing is seated properly the screw should be tightened and won't interfere with the bearing or knob.

If the screw seats fully it will not interfere with the bearing. Gear oil is what I use on them. It soaks right in where as grease needs to be forced in.

Line weight ratings on flyvrods are as subjective as any lure weight or power ratings. Any rod with throw a length of line some distance. The only way to tell is to try it. I'm not familiar enough with that rod to definitively tell you to over or under line it.

If the knob feels that way I'd disassemble the entire handle and flush it all again. Only a grain or two can cause problems. I lube handles for smoothness rather than free spin.

If you'd like to contact me directly I'll be glad to do a quote for you. Mike

They're both built in the same factory and share tooling. It's a matter of features and deal. In general Lews pricing is lower on an apples to apples comparison

You have three things at work here: workhorse level reels less less than ideal service potentially unrealistic expectations if if you want to send them in I'll be glad to go through them. Also feel free to contact me directly for any assistance I can offer.

The type and size of leader depends on the reason for the leader.

Hold the handle and twist on the seat. If it gives on the blank have st croix swap it. If the seat is tight on the blank and reel it held securely you're good.

No

I'd transfer it to a spinning reel if it were mine. Barring that pull off a good amount of line and reel it back on normally. Use care chucking big baits and pull off some line after snags etc.

There's nothing more refined per say abut the STX. Compare features and decide from there. I'm not a fan of mag only brakes so I'd go S or STX