Delaware Valley Tackle

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No one uses a loop knot on hard baits in place of the split ring?

Trimming the threads gives a cleaner look and a more comfortable grip allowing your finger to rest on the blank as opposed to the threads.

That's a no brainer

The Core is Great bang for the buck higher end reel.

The beauty of the old centrifugal brake system was the set it and forget it. An ultra adjustable cent brake is pointless to me. If you need more, dual breaking is a better system imo.

That could work but you have to tighten the hood all the way with no reel mounted to be sure you have enough threads to secure it.

That or just live with it. You could wrap tape or something in ftonnof the hood to smooth the transition and make it more comfortable

Looks like the seat is modified by trimming the threads. I do this all the time on customs. Never seen it on a factory rod though. Looks like they went a little too far. May have used a smaller reel foot as a reference point.

What exactly are you doing to your reels? Reels should be rinsed and dried immediately after saltwater exposure.

Those light weight reels are prone to some sound but far from grinding.

Adding those bearings will hardly be noticeable but it's your call. If they're important to you just buy the reel that has them.

Wd40 won't do anything for you. Email me for some suggestions if you'd like.

The rods guide train are mostly at fault here. Short of changing rods about all you can do is try the softest line you can and use heavier baits to keep the line tight

Jersey? Which exit?

Reels either cast well or not so well but not "far". Your stated budget will get you a quality reel from any of the big names. Proper setup, maintenance and practice will result in all the distance you need. Setup includes pairing with an appropriate rod and line.

Bigger companies look at certain number of replacements as a cost of doing business and chalk up the expense to customer relations. 90% of the rods replaced were not defective when delivered. I'd be shocked if they didn't do something for you. If you end up with possession of the broken rod look for a local builder to splice it for you or put it aside for parts. With that much tip off it the action is ruined.

That's a perfectly fish able reel. For bass, probably best suited to big swimbaits or A rigs and the like.

Feel free to call if you get stuck or just want reassurance.

That's right. A schematic is a parts list and doesn't necessarily show assembly order or part orientation. The internet is a tremendous resource but keep in mind it is not edited or filtered. Use common sense and your own judgement and logic to apply suggestions from the web. Don't expect to do this job in 20 minutes as a rookie. Be prepared to troubleshoot if all doesn't go according to plan.

Acetone won't hurt the AR but isn't mandatory.

You're welcome. Glad to help!

No fly reel I use is controlling any fish. I think it's just how they did it and we're desperate to assign deep logic to something I don't think got a lot of thought at all

The ratings are arbitrary so there's no formula or anything. Line weights like that I'd guess 1/4-3/4. You might be able to stretch it on either end. Probably a little light powered for pike and Muskie unless you're targeting smaller fish.

Make sure the yoke holding the pinion is right side up(beveled sides face down) and that the drag stack is correct and not slipping. Other than those things I'll need to see it.