Delaware Valley Tackle

I'd lean toward MH mod for the deep cranking Rod and Hvy or XH for the A rig Rod . Models are hard to speak to dye the subjective nature of ratings and labels.

I choose colors based on water conditions and keep it simple. White shad colors in clear, green pumpkins and watermelon in colored and black, blue or purple in dingy.

Not to change the topic, but have you all seen the new rid building sub forum? Not sure how long it's been on but I just saw it. This will undoubtedly be moved there shortly.

Full bodied jig, big worms, deep cranks.

He put a lot of work into that chart and deserves credit for sharing. Problem is, at the end of the day it's just one persons preference and opinion. At first glance it looks like a lot if not most of us would concur but you'll get more asking about each technique as you get ready to try it.

You're on point as far as sticking to brand names as ABEC ratings have been known to be counterfeited. You'll never get a true picture of what any bearing offers until stick bearings have been flushed and oiled properly. Buying performance parts on a price only basis just makes no sense

Same way you'd paint any metal. Sand it clean, prime, paint, clear coat. It'll be hard to match the factory color. Getting the color code from ABU and have a body shop shoot it might be the best if you're doing a refurb.

DC is another type of braking. Supposedly more progressive and requiring less user input(thumb control) making for longer backlash free casts. I don't think it's a cure all or a replacement for proper setup and casting technique though. It's also something different that tackle enthusiasts find appealing.

You might want at least a shock leader . I'm not sure how much to recommend for a given weight though.

What you're doing pretty much is a full super tune . Only thing I do differently is a progression of abrasives. Lots of new reels have a pretty good finish on them to begin with. If the reel has brass tension spacers polish those too.

There's so much value in the citica and up I can't see going below that. If the budget won't support that price point look at a PQ on sale.

It's an enthusiast/ tackle junkie thing. As an overall percentage of the fishing public BFS is small, but the ones serious about it tend to be willing to open their wallets.

Dave "Reel Mech" was good his passing is a loss to the industry. I'm proud to help fill his shoes and have helped a number of his former clients. Regards Mike

Nice , clean first build. I concur with Mick on the cp. the othe thing I picked up on was that epoxy is half done. If that means 1 coat am needs a 2nd ok. If only half the guides are done, you're working too slowly and fussing with the finish too much. Keep up the good work. "It's about progression not perfection"

Break a Bobby pin right at the bend. It will leave a little hook you can use as a puller. Sometimes you need to pull on it with a pair of pliers. Not uncommon at all. Perfectly safe for the bearing.

Leader length and type varies with application. 18" is about as short as I find useful.

Krylon spray and clear coat has been done on full rods. Should be fine I'm the butt area with little to no flex as pointed out. A short section like that wrapping is always an option as well.

Yup the bearing supported level wind makes a huge difference in what the c3 can handle. Under 3/8 is spinning territory for me usually anyway.

Those reels are built like a tank and will do anything a new low profile reel will do except for the lightest baits and of course the weight difference. I know a goodtournament fishermen that has nothing but c3 & c4 reels on deck

Look through the swimbait, musky and surf lineups of Rainshadow and MHX. Both have lots to choose from and good prices.

The deal is undeniable. However, as to the original question it will feel much different than the Rod you compare to. Most prefer a mod or mod fast for cranks but there are a handful that like fast actions. Give it a whirl and see what happens .

Those are just model designations. The key is on fujis site or just read the description on the sellers site. There are a number of systems for spinning guide size and placement. The Microwave kit is a no brainer. Simple and effective. I use it and Fujis kr concept. It's a little involved for here but is explained on Fujis site as well. Anglers resource.

Every reel requires some level of thumb control so the results will vary from user to user and reel to reel. I think it's perfectly legit to have a particular reel cast better for you. I just don't think you can say any one reel casts better across the board. The free spool on the Ambassador is actually limited by the non disengaging level wind. As a result they are a little less prone to backlash start up. You can get away with really chucking s cast with those. It's all for not out on the water anyway.

The only adjustment I'd recommend is on the step where you pull the main line, go extra easy with braid to avoid tightening a knot by accident. Other than that the same technique works fine.

Cold won't make grease drop off. All grease is, is a vehicle to hold oil in place to libricate the parts. A fishing reel is not a demanding application at all compared to others. Any more than a film does nothing for you. Any of the greases you mention will work. The key is to have a clean part to start with. Drag grease makes a good multipurpose lube but if you don't have any wet drags save that cost too. Super Lube or marine grease work well and are readily available. There's no magic to any of them .