Delaware Valley Tackle

Where's the study claiming reel noise is transmitted to the water via line? Even if it did it wouldn't come near what a crank bait puts out not to mention trolling motors, radios, impact with structure etc. not that a level of stealth isn't prudent, but we're way over thinking this one.

I can tell you for certain that there is no magic when it comes to lubricants. The key is to use quality products in the appropriate application applied to clean parts. There is no forever lube or any that "molecularly bond " to surfaces beyond what any others do. Super Lube, marine grease or drag grease all work fine on reel gears.

I've used the TM1 for repairs and what I noticed is it shrinks a lot so you have to over lap the end of the wraps. That may be why the moisture got in.

A faster action fly rod is probably easier to learn on. In fly fishing you're casting the line as opposed to the bait so don't cheap out on flyline. Cortland and scientific angler have some good reasonable priced lines. I'd start with a weight forward floating line. You can add a split shot and lengthen the leader for sub surface fishing. The leader or tippet is tapered and sized to match the fly size so it turns over correctly and lays the fly down softly. A reel with interchangeable cassettes is nice for later on but beside that it only holds the line so don't go nuts on the reel.

I'd look long term to move the lathe out of the wrapping area. The dust is just too hard to stay On top of

A reel is a mechanical tool with moving parts. Some being more refined, will be quieter but none should be expected to be completely silent, especially if setup for peak performance.

Check out the Rod Choice Basics thread pinned at the top of this forum.

If it's not into the paint you can sand it lightly with 400 or finer before recoating just don't go deeper than the clear.

Yes, epoxy as mr. Hovanec stated will repair and protect.

Likewise.

You don't need the highest modulus , sensitive rod for frogging but you need a good blend of power and still enough tip to cast well. I wouldn't "cheap out" per say but no need to go overboard.

You have a new "Like" Cameron.

What are the build specs & components?

Some of them get a little "geary" feeling with use. Shouldn't affect performance just depends how fussy you are.

The E series shimanos have a big following for good reason. The 200 has plenty of line capacity for bass fishing but the 300 may suit you better.

Remember that guy at Christmas, that's a deal

St Croix seems to use a shorter grip than others lending itself to the "tip heavy" feel. I like the extra "effective rod length" (from seat to tip) but if you want a special seat and grip, St Croix sells blanks that can be built up to suit.

Thank you. I had made these observations. Does the Rainshadow philosopy allow for the broader choices in action and power or that just a business decision? Are there any inherent advantages or limitations between the two philosophies in your opinion? Or is it just two ways to skin the same cat?

Kevin VanDam and the production Rod makers do not drive custom builder innovation. Quite the opposite. The appropriate guide for any build is the smallest, lightest THAT WiIl DO The JOB which includes passing knots and connections. Micro guides are not a cure all any more than anything else. Please don't project the misapplied theory and exaggerated claims of mass producers and their pitchmen onto true custom rod builders. The lightest possible guide train on a rod helps retain the blanks inherent properties resulting in a crisp and sensitive Rod. Also, "micro" covers a range of sizes and I shy away from the term and just choose by application. For reference a 4.5 size guide will pass an Albright knot joining 50# PP & 15# fluoro no problem. Some off the shelf rods are using as small as 3s I believe. The advantages of properly applied micro guides are subtle but real much like higher modulus blanks etc

Everything in the pic goes perfectly right down to the bait! Kudos

A spinning rod guide train based on the New Guide Concept consits of: 1. Stripper Guide - first closest to the reel 2. Reduction Guides - next 2-3 gradually decreasing in size 3. Choke Guide - First running guide of smallest in the train. There are several theories regarding the optimal placement for the choke. The "Straight Edge" as decribed above is one, "27X" (27 times the spool diameter measured from the spool face in the foremost oscillation point) is another and the newest used by custom builders is Fuji's KR Rapid Choke Concept which uses smaller rings on high frame "Match Guides" and a closer choke point. The result is a better casting, lighter and crisper finished rod. 4. Running guides - out to the tip 5. Tip Top - same ring size as running guides The idea is to tame the coils as they are pulled off the reel resulting in better casting. Ring size and height of the stripper and taming guides is another major component of any of the afore mentioned systems. As a starting point looking at producrion rods, pick one with a stripper guide about 1/2 the diameter of the spool you'll use. Then sight down through the guides: ideally they will form a "Bullseye" between the stripper and choke. Better yet: contact me or another reputable builder and have a rod done right from scratch without having to co-mingle theories and handle dozens of factory rods just to end up in a compromise anyway. Ps "Line slap" typically refers to casting. Incidental contact between the line and blank during retrieve is inconsequential in anything but a heavy saltwater rod where heat may be generated during a long run by big fish.

You've got plenty of budget for something custom. You can have the exact grip shape and size you want- no compromising.

There is no right or wrong in the "balance" debate. As a rod builder, I'm convinced that any added weight regardless of position is a negative with very few specific exceptions. Obviously custom builds give you more fexibility to achieve the feel you want through other means, but it's still all personal preference. I'd be more inclined to change rods than to add weight, but if you've done it and are pleased with the results, the BPS kit is a reasonable way to do it.

A mh/f I'm the MHx line is a good general purpose casting Rod. The rain shadow power ratings are heavier. I'd go with a m/f in that line.