Delaware Valley Tackle

The spring washers could weaken some over the off season and soft washers like the Dartanium stuff Shimano uses can get sticky and mushed if left on lock-down. It's not a bad practice for those that back it off, but it's nothing to stay awake nights over. Between trips, don't worry about it at all.

Save your money. Flush and oil the stock bearings and you'll be more than satisfied.

I concur, polishing will do little except in the case of removing a burr. Keep it clean, use light, supple line and an appropriate weight to load the rod. If you're still dissatisfied look for something with a better guide train layout.

Most have s matte finish but either way i don't see them significantly more prone to damage. Anything that will harm the fibers won't be stopped by paint

I agree on the spinning guides. The casting guides are going to be a tough sell to me though.

Weight savings is the advertised reason but in reality modern quality finishes don't add enough weight to notice. In aid level blank it's a style and cost consideration more than anything.

Cleaning is $22 by itself and is included in the Super Tune @ $34. Members here get 20% off those prices. Carnontex drags for those are $8 if you want to do that to. It's a nice upgrade for these reels. Feel free to email or call if you have any questions.

Tru-Oil is better described as an alternative to U40 rather than a substitute as they are different materials as Scott pointed out. I've heard of candle wax dbeing used too but I'm not up on the application process.

All the "Ceramic" bearings we refer to are hybrids (steel cage & ceramic balls). A full ceramic bearing is crazy expensive. The ABEC rating drives the price more than the ball material. That, and the relatively low sustained speeds of a reel are why anything above ABEC5 is overkill.

Here are a couple tips for learning to cast a baitcaster: Practice with relatively heavy weights (3/4 oz is a good start) Set the cast control and brakes and make nice easy sidearm and roll casts. Keep a thumb on the spool at all times. Don't go for distance. Don't cast overhead. Pull off a long cast worth of line plus some (100 ft) and put a strip of electrical tape around the spool. This will keep baclashes from getting too deep. Learn the "Thumb trick" for removing backlashes. Don't pull hard the line tightening the knots. Think of casting throwing : Accuracy is about the release point. Watch the target not the spool and clamp your thumb down before the bait hits the water or ground. Be patient but persistent and it will all come together. Enjoy the learning process, it's all part of the fun.

The answer to the OP's questions lies in expectation, and current condition. If you have had the reel deep cleaned and bearings flushed and lubricated properly, the difference new bearings will make is minimal. The reels in question are also candidates for Super Tuning. Cleaning and Tuning are both better bangs for the buck and should be the first steps in improving reel casting. Increased distance is secondary to the improved accuracy that results from improved free-spool due to the ease of casting. An ABEC 5 ceramic hybrid run dry gives the best performance. Anything else is overkill or counter.

If the spacers are intact and the cap fits you should be good.

When you say "Turning the pawl.." I asume you mean tightening the pawl cap as the pawl itself doen't turn. The cap should always be snug, it's not an adjustment like the spool tension cap. If the cap was loose that's your problem and you should be fine.

It really depends on the blanks you expect to use. If you're really going cheap out of the gate you can use rat tail files from your garage.

You can get by with a flippin' stick, but some of them don't have the tip to cast well enough to make them the "perfect" frog rod. Without getting into brand wars, look for a Hvy/fast with enough tip to load and cast the bait distances and enough reserve power in the butt to haul them out. These things are hard to know for sure, but if you handle something you think will work and post someone can likely confirm or denie.

The microwave system works as advertised. I've used them on several builds. They are especially good when the reel and line to be used are unknown or will change from time to time. Similar performance can be obtained with Fujis KR concept ( high framed smaller ringed guides ) but with some limits on reel/line choices. The microwave sets weights the same or less than standard guide trains.

I'd swap out the hooks before changing rods. If you want a dedicated rod for this application, I'd lean toward a spinnerbait/jig rod. Fast, but not too fast of an action and not pool cue powerful tip.

The main thing is to keep the drum (or other friction surface) clean. A swab with some denatured alcohol works well. If you want to put a thin film of light oil on the drum it won't hurt, and will quiet the brakes if they start to squeal. This is common in the new Curado.

That's right. The fiber washers are what's replaced by Carbontex drags. They are especially good when replacing the Dartanium washers in Shiamno's. Even some reels with stock carbon drags benefit from the Carbontex's tighter weave and surface texture. A drag upgrade is a better bang for the buck performance upgrade than spool bearings in most cases.

It won't hurt to open a bearing and run it that way, but it's not really necessary either to clean them. A couple soak/swish/rinse cycles in an appropriate solvent will clean them right out. I don't recommend messing with pressed in shields. The c clip ones are enough of a pain.

Let me clarify: Once a season for complete teardown, deep cleaning and lube. Interim service including oil of spool bearings, brushing off and possible oiling of worm gear, general look over should be done every 6 trips or so depending on use. Keep the reel clean and dry after use / prior to storage.

If it holds long term, cosider yourself lucky. Once the flange is compromised they're prone to continuing problems.

Inserts are not replaceable. The whole guide needs to be replaced. If this is the tip top there are kits available or a good tackleshop should be able to help or atleast point you to a local builder.

PB Blaster, WD40, Reel Magic .... all contain petroleum distillates that make them sprayable. Those additives do disssolve grease and oil. None of these things have any business near the internals of a reel. The solvents are likely evaporated now so you could get away with just adding a drop of 3-in-1, Remoil, Bantam Lube, even sewing machine oil and you'll be ok until the next service. A properly cleaned and lubricated reel should be fine for the season unless conditions and use are unusually harsh.

Wipe them off and lay out yo dry and you'll be fine. Just don't lock th in a box or reel cover left wet.