Delaware Valley Tackle

1 is fine if it provides the braking you want. If using more than 1 I suggest spacing them opposite one another. It's not hyper critical though.

I find it awkward to hold the button down and thumb the spool. I suppose you'd get used to it but just never saw the need. Mechanically, they are a weak link and require repair or service more frequently than other designs.

I set drags the same as if I were fishing mono. More to protect the rod and reel from unnecessary stress than anything else. I use sharp hooks and a moderate hook set and don't too often rip holes in fish's lips.

Performance wise I haven't seen any significant differences between JDM and USDM products. JDM stuff used to be cool because it was rare and hard to get comparatively. Making JDM versions more readily available should water down the value. Side by side on the same shelf it's harder to justify the price difference.

No, I never cast ahead of the 3 & 9 o'clock positions without express permission. My point was just that right on the bank isn't the only place to get bites. Communication is key as is mutual respect. I respect the boater, his equipment and hospitality but I expect nothing less in return. This goes for all aspects of life for me. Sounds like we get along just fine!

I haven't fished one but the one's I've held felt good. Not as powerful as a St Croix but certainly not a noodle. The fit and finish were exceptional for a production rod.

Don't be afraid to fish off the deep side of the boat if the boater is beating the bank and not leaving many targets. You can get a couple of big bites this way. Also perfect your back hand pitch. I can't count the number of fish I've caught off the back side of cover as the boat passed. You have to be watching and sometimes wait to get the angle on a good target. If he's really cruising down the bank you'll need to throw a heavier bait for a quick in and out reaction bite. Lastly, if you're going to net for the boater ask him his preferred style. Some want to lead the fish into the net and get Po'ed if you stab at them and others expect you to practically go swimming for them.

I'd go with a pair of breathable waders, stocking foot & wading shoes. Buy big enough to insulate as needed when the weather changes. Wading presents certain dangers, among them is the possibility of getting stuck in muck bottoms especially in ponds. Be aware of your footing and where you step.

You've got the right idea, but I'd look for better water until this one recovers a little more. A fingerling hasn't grown enough in one year to be worth pursuing. There is a fairly new pond near me that I go to occasionally but fish it with an ultra light and pick up 8" ers here and there among the sunnies. This one has a few breeders to though. I don't know how long it will take those to mature in your lake's climate, but your DEC should be able to tell you.

A single color double foot wrap and finish should be <$10

Sport anglers are a vastly diverse group. Tackle, target species, location, socioeconomic position, age, gender and motivation... just scratching the surface. Add to this the advancements in technology, materials and techniques, and you have to come to the conclusion that 90% of the time there is no "right" or "wrong" answer to most fishing related questions. Sure there are situations where biology, physics or mechanics can give us concrete answers but for the most part everything boils down to personal preference and what's right for you. As a reel tech and rod builder I obviously like to tinker and experiment. I'm always looking for a better, or even different way to fish. That's just me. If some else enjoys just quiet time on the water with modest equipment, I'll be the last one to judge, ridicule or try to "fix" them.

Thank you for reminding me to speak in "layman's" terms. Glad I could shed some light.

The line leaves a spinning reel in coils as it's pulled off the spool. Efficiently taming these coils all but eliminates the oscillation of the line allowing it to flow more smoothly through rest of the guides. The Stripper guide is the one nearest the reel. It should be of sufficient size and height to collect the coiled line and start taming it without choking it too tightly causing it to back up and slap on the blank. A ring diameter of 1/2 the spool lip diameter placed 18-20" ahead of the spool is a common starting point. The next guide or two are the Reduction Guides. They gradually reduce in size with each successive guide further taming the line. The next guide is referred to as the Choke Guide. It is the first of the running guides which will all be the same size out to the tip. If done correctly, the line will be shooting straight and smoothly through these guides with minimal distance robbing friction. This guide layout practice is referred to as New Concept or 27X among rod builders. The 27x refers to the distance from the spool face to the choke guide which is optimally 27x the spool diameter. Manufacturers have their own recipes but the best performing rods will fall somewhere close to these parameters. Here is a link showing the line flow and an alternative guide system. http://www.americantackle.us/microwave_guides.html Here is a Rod Building Forum if you'd like to research anything related: http://rodbuilding.org/list.php?2 Feel free to contact me with any questions via, post, pm, email or phone

The benefits of smaller guides are the same regardless of the type of line used or whether it's spinning or casting. Less weight, especially on the tip, the better the blank will perform sensitivity and crispness wise. How this translates to each individual varies of course. For example, some don't see any difference between a Berkley Cherrywood and a St Croix LTE. The chances of that individual being impressed my employing micro guides is slim to none.

The key to casting performance of a spinning rod lies in the reduction train: Stripper, reduction and choke guides and their relation to reel size and placement. By the time line reaches the running guides, regardless of guide size If the line has not been tamed efficiently casting performance will suffer.

Just my best guess. I haven't seen any personally with this particular problem.

Competition with real forage can be a challenge that needs to be overcome. More often though, signs of forage species is a benefit by helping you identify productive spots. Look for ambush points near where you see bait fish. This could be a weedline, wood, rock, depth change etc. Fish various baits that mimic the size, profile and maybe color of the bait (match the hatch). Of course, all this is predicated on the idea that the lake has been restocked and populations are fishable.

The key is definitely to put your own catching aside, especially in the beginning. Keep trips short and in prime locations at prime times. Fish for some panfish so they at least get a tug on the line and transition into bigger bites as the novelty wears off. Teach new anglers how and where to cast and why. Pounding the water with random casts can get old even for seasoned anglers.

From what I've seen in reels through here, it seems a little over blown. If you already have one, let ABU know if it acts up and I'm sure they'll cover it. If you're considering one, just check the tabs to be sure they click in place positively before purchase or upon receipt.

"Micro" is a term used to describe a range of guide sizes, typically 5.5<. When choosing guides you need to consider line and connections but to summarily reject all guides referred to as "Micro" because you'll use a leader is a mistake. A size 4 guide (4mm ring) will easily pass an Albright knot joining 50# braid and 15# fluoro. In conditions of filamentous algae or icing, "Micros" may not be the best choice. Outside of that, the smallest, lightest guides you can use preserve the blank's inherent qualities and help maximize sensitivity, recovery speed, and balance if applied properly.

Any thing with a metal frame, decent drag and good free-spool will serve you well. Pretty much any of major brand's offerings starting at around the $100 retail mark. Avoid flipping switches and "insta-gage" setups. With few exceptions they are clumsy to use a weak link mechanically. The SX is a good pitching reel. The mag only brake setup is more conducive to pitching than bombing long casts for most users.

Ya, shipping is often a deal breaker when it come to rod repairs. Wrapping a guide isn't hard per say, but if this is an aesthetic repair leave it to a pro. Nice tight wraps and clean epoxy finishing takes some practice.

The dog & ratchet is referred to as a redundant AR. It's a nice added feature but is not critical to the reels performance or longevity. Should the AR roller clutch fail completely, I would expect other problems and to see signs of less than regular maintenance especially in fresh water use. It's safe to remove. On the other hand, if the redundant AR is properly adjusted and greased, its presence should be undetectable.

As I posted in an earlier thread, the dead lift capacity of modern high modulus blanks is surprisingly high IF the rod is kept as close to parallel to the ground as possible. Pretty much like Brian said. Boat flipping is still a practice I discourage due to the toll it takes on both gear and fish, but if it's going to be done at least do it "right". Handle your rods appropriately to avoid compromising the blank with dings, dents and scratches, and avoid any motion that flexes the tip beyond 90* to the butt and your problems will go away.

The rod is the primary factor in casting distance (or accuracy for that matter). A well tuned and adjusted quality reel helps maximize the rod's potential. A longer rod will cast further, a slower action may cast further unless it has reached the point of being over loaded, and power must match the weight of the bait being thrown. Casting distance is way over rated compared to accuracy when it comes to putting fish in the boat.