Delaware Valley Tackle

I’ve got one I built for sale that should work nicely. Message me for details.

MGL spool are lighter weight but still aluminum. MGL designation doesn’t affect saltwater appropriateness either way but off the top of my head I can’t think of a saltwater application where an MGL spool would be an advantage

If you’re treating yourself to a high end rod consider a custom build with the exact features you want including but not limited to grip length, shape and material, cosmetics and more. Message me if you’d like to discuss.

If using multiple brakes no harm in spacing them evenly but using an odd number or not perfectly balanced doesn’t hurt anything

Thread tension is adjusted on your wrapper and I pull the first 10-12 tight before snipping the tag end. How tight comes with experience. Goal is for wraps to be tight enough that it takes firm finger pressure to move and adjust guides. Finish epoxy has some odor and ventilation is always a good idea but it’s not noxious. A spare room, den or office is best bet if you’re in the house. I’ve never used an under wrap on a bass rod but no need to epoxy each layer separately. Guide alignment is best done by eye. The laser tool is useless. I use the foot and stem tool in the seat to get first guide and tip top lined up then eyeball the others.

What’s the lure wt range on the rod? Bfs is yet another term with subjective definitions. A ml is on the finesse end of bait casting but whether or not you’ll want a “bfs” reel to pair it with depends on your planned application. A 4 in senko will cast on that with any quality casting reel but may not fall under someone else’s idea of bfs. If you want to try spybaits with it I just built one for a customer.

My comment was just for split seats not that particular rod Yes we call them split seats. Threads and trigger with no insert/ barrel

Split seats are love ‘em or leave ‘em deal. I never hear and ambivalent response to them.

Letting the rod load and do the work actually generates more power than muscling a cast

Sounds like he means pitch?

I concur. Alps are fine guides but Fuji is the premier brand, I know what I’m getting each time.

Wraps secure the guide and epoxy protects the wraps. Finish epoxy is different from adhesive in regard to structural strength.

A Med/fast spinning rod is a good choice for all around spinning applications regardless of the body of water.

For the folks losing fish on bladed jigs, do you feel like you’re not getting a good look set or jig is being thrown after the fact? I fish them like a swimjig. Sharp hook, solid set whenever I feel anything different. Mh/fast, Hvy/f if cover and bait size dictate.

Meant tug. Moving parts need to move occasionally to work their best

Yes, JDM reels are no problem

I’ve changed guides on a rod and had it go from a dead stick to a pleasure to fish. So, yes, guides make a difference. Also, a 6.5 tip top does not have to be a 6 ring. 5 single foot are as big as I’d go personally but like they said it’s yours do as you like.

Check out Bill Falconers podcast mastering rod building. He interviewed the Anglers Resource (Fuji) rep who stated that there’s no structural reason to use any double foot (Fuji) guides on a freshwater rod. I use one maybe two for mostly esthetic reasons , 2-3 belly (wide foot) guides and the smallest runners that will pass line and connections.

These reels last lifetimes and generations.

Loosening the drag is not a bad idea but I’m not sure it’s critical. Definitely not as critical and keeping them clean and greased depending on material. Drags can get sticky just from sitting. I give them a tank every so often including at the start of a fishing day.

I’ve been under the impression that Mudhole, American Tackle, MHx, Pro etc were always intertwined business or ownership wise. I think this is more of a reorganization than anything. I don’t see it like a conglomerate swooping in buying up brands like we’ve seen with traditional tackle brands lately.

I don’t get to see a lot of late model entry level reels but I can tell you in broad strokes the BPS models compare favorably to ABU and Lews with similar features and price point.

? agree. As another example, long soft rods with light line are regularly used to hook steelhead at a distance then fight and land fish up to 10#+.

If you insist on throwing both on the same rod I’d look for a Med/mod fast which is good for steering the crank and popping it off grass and should set a hook on the spinner bait if the hook is sharp and not too heavy wire.

The claimed benefit of a triangle grip is legitimate, they’ve been used on saltwater rods for a long time. I’m not sure it translates to bass, trout, walleye rods etc. I haven’t put a foregrip on a bass rod in years and so little of the hand even contacts the grip when casting and palming a reel I feel like the seat is more of a factor.