Delaware Valley Tackle

We don't need a standard, just an agreed upon measurement system. Some Custom builders are using the Common Cents system which started as a way to compare fly rods. It workd just as well for casting and spinning. Imagine if boats only came in short, medium and long. Is "long" 18', 19' ...

Sqealing on the cast is often mistaken for dry bearings (which may be the case) but more often it is centrifugal brakes. Clean the drum and shoes with alcohol and a swab. Some like to put a THIN film of light oil on the drum as well. If you don't have all the brakes on you can also try alternating the ones that are off and on.

Yup, Location / Depth / Presentation are the keys and when you get all those right you can have confidence in anything you throw at 'em.

I also stick to basic colors but I'm not so sure the contrast would hurt anyway and might even get a bite you wouldn't have otherwise

So much for hooked-on-phonics... or is it fonix.. or foniks.....

WD (water displacement)-40 isn't originally meant as a lubricant. It does displace water and dissolve rust to some level. It works as a line treatment same as Reel Magic but KVD L&L works better and is safer on the line and environment. No silicone spray belongs anywhere near a reel's internals as it dissolves grease. As for fish attracting power, I've heard some old timers used to swear by it, but with so many actual attractants available why leave the oil slick on the water?

Unless the guide was way off size or height wise you'll never notice it fishing.

Bearing upgrades are more of an enthusiast project unless maybe you have to replace a bad one anyway. There are no markings on the stock bearings and I've never been able to get anything more than conjecture as to the specs or ratings.

Good (comfortable, well fitting, polarized) sunglasses.

Have a C-rig ready to go. If you're not getting any good targets, dragging that can get you some bites. Lean to cast back handed. If you can hit the back side of targets as you pass you can pick up a few fish. The respect for the boater & boat should be a given. Feel him out a little to see if he's chatty or quiet and concentrating and go with whatever mood he sets.

Bowfin have a fan base that target them exclusively. Google Bowfin and you'll find some sites. One good thing about them is they'll bite well in the dog days of summer when the hot water slows some other things down.

This one depends on the actual power and back bone of the rod. A mod action isn't necessarily limp, but I'd be leaning more toward a fast or Mod-fast blank if I were building a swim-jig / spinner bait rod.

That rod sounds a little heavier than you need but should work fine. Depending on components, a 5 arm rig with 1/4 oz jig heads and 3-4" plastics will likely come in within the rod specs but toward the lower end. Try it and see if it loads and casts well enough with your specific rig.

At the price point your shopping you'd almost have to try to go wrong among the major brands. It will come down to features, deals and personal preferences. There really is no one standout or lemon that comes to mind.

I can't think of any bait with a profile and weight distribution that launches any better.

"Species" labels are like "Technique" labels in that they help lead the uninitiated toward appropriate gear for their purpose. In-shore, Bass, Walleye and Trout lines each overlap in a lot of cases. In the end you need tackle matched to the target species, cover, bait and presentation. This goes for rod, reel, line, bait and terminal tackle.

Half a spool of cheap mono on each topped with 50# Power Pro on the caster and 15# PP on the spinner

1/4oz would likely go on a spinning outfit if it were me, but a properly setup baitcast reel with properly flushed and lubed bearings will cast Traps well as long as the rod loads sufficiently. The rod is the determining factor.

Only soak the spool, not the whole reel.

Welcome to the forum. I think it's fair to say the membership here is C&R by a wide majority. Fair warning: if you're for real you're gonna take a bashing for killing 20# of bass which are edible but hardly a delicacy. Second, I wouldn't eat any fish that's laid in a cooler for a full day.

It depend on the jig and cover and as always personal preference. Typical all around jig fishing in mod cover with 1/2oz> a fast action is good. 1oz> in heavy cover/slop an XH/Mod fast gets a good hookset and the fish moving at the same time. Finesse jigs and deep water I think a faster tip gets a set on light bites. There is also no standard for any of the terms used so Mod-Fast / F / XF are all subjective.

Choosing the most sensitive rod is like choosing the smoothest reel or most comfortable car. It's all in the perception of the user. The top end Loomis rods are undeniably built using top quality components, but are way over priced for a production rod. If your budgeting that much (or even less) for a rod you can get just as good of components AND have them custom fitted and designed for you by a reputable rod builder.

A good Dremel tool isn't that expensive. A word of caution though: be very careful with any power tool near your reels. The idea it simply to polish off minor imperfections and not to alter the shape or tolerance of any parts.

I've never messed with the Gulp but wanted to try some. Had the leech in my hand and put it down in favor of some 2" minnows I though might make a good finesse drop shot bait. Also, a woolly booger fly makes a good hellgie imitation.

Handle length is determined by balance and user comfort. Too short of a handle is not good for two handed casting or for trolling in a rod holder. For your purpose I suggest something that will lay against your forearm for support but not so long as to snag on clothing etc.