Delaware Valley Tackle

Each model is built on the same platform. The only differences are in features, primarily braking and the latter 2 have the full floating spool. Personally, I like centrifugal brakes. The SX is mag only, The S is Cent. only and the STX is dual. Whether or not the features justify the price differences is strictly user preference.

The reason 2 piece rods are perceived as lower quality is that by and large, they are marketed to individuals more concerned with convenience than performance and are built on cheap blanks. If built on a quality 2 piece blank with built in ferrules, sensitivity and casting are not negatively affected. The 7' MH/F is no doubt the most versatile for common bass fishing techniques but I would not go as far as calling it "Do it all". There will be compromises as you expand your fishing.

The Winch and E5 Shimanos are good choices. The Daiwa Crazy Cranker is another option. A budget option is the PQ on sale. If I remember correctly they come in both 5.1:1 and 4.?:1. I'm using a 4600 C3 Ambassaduer. The 23" IPT is middle of the road which I like since I'm not cranking 20' deep all day usually.

Lure weight ratings and rod power are loosely connected, but it is all subjective. Generally the sweet spot falls near the middle of the manufacturers lure weight rating but only experimenting will tell for sure.

Bang for buck wise a PQ on sale is hard to beat.

ABU significantly lightened the Revos this Gen and I think the feel and sound is a side effect. I don't see anything mechanically inferior so far. I can say pretty confidently that all the extra lube some are applying is completely unnecessary. 5 drops of oil in a bearing will suffocate it and leak out to unintended areas.

To enhance and improve your fishing success you might have more options with fewer sacrifices or compromises by finding a hi-vis line rather than colored rod.

Yes, a reel that new should be replaced under warranty.

Level wind parts are high wear items and corossion can account for the rest. The charges are not out of line. I agree that they way over lube just like the factory. I would be surprised though if they spend the time and attention to detail that I and the other shop owner-operators do on each service.

Right. Reels rated for salt water are not eccentric at all and "turning x into y" never yields the full benefit and usually costs more in the long run.

An 8 year old quality reel should have lots of life left if it's been cared for. 23 IPT is on the low side, but the small light spool is what makes this a great finesse reel. It would't be the best choice for deep cranking. The Zillion is obviously faster but probably not as efficient throwing the lightest of baits.

The Lew's name has a significant nostalgic component and I really feel that it has a positive affect on the way the reels are percieved. I'm not saying they aren't quality reels because they certainly are, and at a good price point. Strictly mechanically speaking there is very little if anything seperating Lews from Revos as long as you compare comparable models. Anecdotes about "I outcast by buddy ..." are meaningless beacause of the variables (rod, lure, line, maintenance or lack there of...) I also put very little trust in online customer reviews. I have a lot more confidence in feedback you get here on BassResource.com. As to the OP, if you've decided on one of the 2 reels mentioned, go with whatever you can get the best deal on.

Actually, for "feel" presentations (jigs,t-rigs...) the rod is a more critical component. For deep cranking you might make an argument for scewing the budget toward the reel. There is no "garbage" in the choices of reels in the $125> price range. You almost can't go wrong. Now if focus is put on the "for the money" part of the OP a Pro Qualifier on sale is really hard to beat. Pflueger, Revo S, and Citica (E or G) are good workman like reels as well and are good values, even more so in gently used condition.

Another option would be a repair. The crack can be over sleeved with a thin wall fiberglass piece or if it's not crushed too badly simply wrapping and epoxy over the bad spot may make it last indefinetely.

People tend to use the word 'warranty' when in actuallity "replacement program" is the better term. Repalcement programs are just a form of insurance whether charged for seperately of built into the price of the item. Everyone pays, some collect. All products carry an implied warranty of merchantibility unless expressly denied. In other words, when companies sell stuff, it has to hold up to the intended use. No company would last a week if they don't stand behind their products. I'd like to see all these fluff, marketing replacement programs fall by the wayside and just pay fair prices for quality items. If a rod is truly defective it's going to break right off the bat not weeks, months or years down the line. High modulus rods need to be protected from scratches, dents and dings to ensure blank integrity. In addition, no rod should be flexed to the point where the tip passes beyond 90* to the butt. In other words, no high sticking.

The D series reel are a little larger profile and heavier, but they are super smooth and cast well. They have a fan base but more than a few agree with Aavery2. $100 is a good deal. Nothing wrong with the Citica especially if you want a profile more in line with current offerings but $120 is no real deal.

RoadWarrior will likely post a link to his often quoted post from the past. Basically, 3 setups will allow you to productively fish any bass technique: 7' MH/F casting for jigs/plastics etc over 1/2oz 7' MH/Mod casting for cranks and other trebel hook lures 7' Med/F spinning for plastics etc <1/2oz As you expand additions would depend on the type of fishing you want to do. I would add in this order: 6'9" ML/XF spinning for drop shot/finesse plastics 7'6" Hvy/F casting for flipping/pitching in heavy cover 6'3" Med/F soft tip spinning for small top water - Pop-Rs etc 7'6" H/F casting (soft tip) hollow body frogs From there personal preferences for specific lures and presentations really dictate. For examlpe, my favorite spinnerbait rod is 6' with a near pistol grip even though a MH/F 7' is fine too.

There is nothing at all wrong with line contacting the blank on retrieve. There is no danger of rod failure unless the line dips significantly below the blank when it is flexed. As suggested make sure everything is clean and to be sure, run a cotton swab around each guide to feel for nicks. Repalce any damaged guides.

My own reels are an ecclectic assortment that changes regularly. I buy, sell, trade and experiment constantly. Each of the "major" brands has unique design features that I like. I suppose patent laws keep anyone from taking the best of all and creating a hybrid design. In general a quality baitcaster can be had for around $100 with the point of diminishing returns being about $250. For spinning reels I'd say $70 and $200. Each brand has strong and weak points with an occasional lemon. You almost have to try to go wrong if working within these price ranges. Daiwa makes very nice reels but the price points are higher than other comparable models. They tend to suffer sticky clutch syndrome. Shimanos are user friendly and good performing. I replace some idle and worm drive gears if they get horsed on. ABU (and all the other Pure Fishing brands) are well built with worm gear (a high wear item on any reel) and in the past kick lever wear. Quantum gets bashed too heavily IMO. They make some very smooth, well casting reels on a solid platform. However, the finish is often poor and I see some QC oversights that make servicing a little harder than it should be.

IPT is the real metric to look at as stated but for discussion sake lets say were looking at several reels from the same mode line. A 5:1 ratio will have more power and be less tiring for DEEP cranks. That's probably the #1 application for a specific reel.IMO is a 7:1 for jigging/flipping etc. Occasionally the fish will bite and swim right at you and the faster reel helps take up slack for a better hookset. Anything else is pure preference.

That won't work. You don't want oil where the spool shaft passes through the bearing (never polish that spot either). The oil wn't get where you want it that way either. Take the cast control knob off to access that bearing, the side palte off for the non-crank side and pull the spool to raech a bearing behind the spool shaft pin. Sounds more and more like too much lube in the wrong places is bogging things down. Email or call if you need more help offline.

Spinnerbaits are hard to throw long distances without backlash due to the poor aerodynamics. Making sure the bait and rod are an appropriate combo is also important. If you still think the reel needs something flushing the bearings is critical. Simply adding new oil over the over done factory lube will more likely make a bad matter worse. There is no need to lube a spool shaft either.

If the brakes are screeching cleaning the drum and shoes should take care of it. The oil isn't a must, but if you use it go with as light a film applied as possible.

A light weight reel is a pleasure to fish if the light weight is achieved through the use of state of the art materials and not just shortcuts. However, even though they were on the heavier side the D series Shimanos were super smooth with great freespool and have a lot of fans.

The MHX blanks are much higher quality than the price would lead you to believe. I use a lot of them including for my own tourney rods. You don't need to invest in a lot of special tools to get started. In fact, turning a rod or two by hand gives you rael insight into how epoxy behaves. ghottis link is a good start.