Delaware Valley Tackle

Spine is an outdated, debunked theory from the 80s. WAY over thought and discussed. It’s nothing more than a manufacturing anomaly of a tubular shape. Many if not most current builders build on the straightest axis because no blank is arrow straight. Materials, dimensions, components and guide spacing are the keys to a quality rod. This fact that a rod is not casted or fished on a single plane is one of the reasons spine is irrelevant.

You’ve got the budget for something custom: your pick of blank, seat, grip material / length / design, colors… message me if you want to talk about it

If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. If you get off the river into a lake with heavier cover try casting to see how you like it

Braid twists as much as anything else. It just doesn’t react as badly. Troll it out like any other line and reel it in tight again. Good to go

The centrifugal brake shouldn’t affect free fall at all. That one tab must be binding. Might be folding in when you put the side plate back on.

I stand corrected. I thought it read med heavy. Yes A hood frog rod. St Croix heavy is really stout. Could punch mats too.

Depending on where you throw it you could get away with it. Not my choice for technique specific.

That can be a jig/plastics, spinner bait , chatter bait, spook, swimbait (within casting weight) rod. Pretty versatile

20# big game is comparatively stiff and high memory especially new and dry. You just had one get away from you. Try walking off 1.5 casts length of line and put a strip of electrical tape around the spool. This will keep any backlash from going deep into the spool.

We used to call them ole reliable.

Any rod building supply shop.

We float fish 10hrs a day with 13’ rods for steelhead. You’ll be ok. I like longer rods especially for flipping. Extra reach and ability to move lots of line for Hook sets and moving the fish.

Why is a custom logo any more off putting than a corporate logo? I put mine on builds unless requested otherwise, which is not a deal breaker.

I think the problem he’s having is the spooler he’s using is sitting high off the rod and lifting the line out of the slot and into the T. If that’s the case either don’t use the spooler and/or pinch the line tight holding tension and keeping it aligned with the level wind.

An ss316 ABEC 7 from a trusted source will work great. There aren’t nearly as many manufacturers as there are brands. Counterfeiting is an issue in the bearing industry so deals that look too good probably aren’t. I agree that shimano uses the best oem bearings.

How heavy of a jig? Are you talking mats or weed lines?

Any Tatula model parts should interchange with those.

If there’s no chips or sharp edges, just keep an eye on it. If/when it becomes an issue, you’ll need to replace the guide.

Spinner baits are notoriously non aerodynamic. There may have been mild environmental conditions you didn’t notice, breeze etc? Also, spinners are often much heavier than their listed weight with blades, skirts and trailers added. I doubt you’re looking at anything mechanical

If you’ve ever used a mid tier ABU, Lews or Pflueger, the Carbonlite compares favorably

I also see no downside to U40.

I’m happy to fix your reel or even troubleshoot with you if you contact me.

As we often discuss, M, MH etc are subjective terms with no industry standard to define them. For example, two rods may both be rated to cast 1/4-3/4, one labeled M and another MH. The MH may have more backbone making it a better choice in heavier cover. Look at the lure weight rating first, then think about the cover and be sure you have the power you need. Whatever designation the manufacturer puts on it means little.

Thank you

I keep a spool of elastic string to tie on guides when I can slide a band on