Delaware Valley Tackle

Did you keep a fair amount of tension on the line as you spooled it up? If so and you used backing, it may pay to take a look at the drag. There may be grease or oil that has migrated onto the pads. They can be cleaned, but a Carbontex upgrade is cheap enough and benefits almost any reel.

Have heard comments that when wet, the carbon skin grips actually get "grippy". I'm just getting ready to try some for myself and will post my first-hand observations. There is no doubt that the grip in the OP is heavier.

Some rod builders are making grips with a foam core, carbon fiber skin and an epoxy finish. These are are actually a little lighter than cork. Probably not practical in a repair scenario like this. The finish is actually less slippery when wet.

If you already have this rod and want to know if it will work - Yes. Is it ideal for a dedicated purpose rod - No. Typical FnF rod is 8'-10' Light or ML with a mod or MF action. If you like BnM, they have FnF rod models.

A Curado should pitch fine as long as it's serviced. The old green Curados however, are a reel that responds well to supertuning IMO.

The Quantum on the less expensive combo probably has less free spool and as such, easier to control. Once you cast effeciently, my guess is that the Extreme will cast further with less effort.

Shimano 877-577-0600 BNT801- cap BNT804 - spring BNT802 & 803 - spacers Schematic - http://fish.shimano.com/media/images/fishing/SPL/techdoc/international/crestfire-04-100D_v1_m56577569830585587.pdf Mike- DVT

You can't go wrong with either of these reels. I see no inherent design or quality flaws in either. Personal preference.

Some like the direct contact with the blank that you get without a fore-grip. In other cases it's done as part of a "Minima" build where the objective is to shave every gram od weight possible. It can also just be a style preference.

Ya it really depends on the reel. You can check with the usual suspects by Googling - Reel Parts but 10 years is a hit or miss proposition

Good point. I remove the split ring if using a snap on these type baits. That offsets the effect, but still may want to tie direct to certain baits.

Regardless of who paid for something, someone paid for it. Everything should be treated with the level of care required to keep it working as intended for as long as it was built and designed to last. To me this applies to my gear, tools, home goods, kids bikes... With that said, they are tools to be used and enjoyed, not museum pieces.

When you "always" do something the same way, you're limiting your effectiveness. With that said, I use snaps regularly. Mostly for moving baits like cranks. If I use a swivel to prevent line twist it usually in-line and part of a snap.

For "feel" type techniques like jigs, t-rigs etc. I'd suggest skewing your budget toward the rod and get the lightest, most sensitive you think you can afford and pick up a decent used 7.1:1 reel. I prefer a 7' rod but 6'6" is fine especially for the lighter jigs.

I use both.

PM sent

Is this an example of prime rib(bing)

x2 This is the #1 advantage of these guides.

Batson makes some very good blanks. Their prices are decent but not what I'd categorize as "cheap". I'm a fan of the St Croix blanks of SCIII (Avid) level and up. "Cheap" wise, the Mudhole Custom Builder IM6 are ok. Bang for your buck wise, the MHX line is hard to beat. What type rod do you want to build?

You'll open up new possibilities by looking beyond rods labeled "Frog Rod". 7'> MH/F are widely available at many price points

I couldn't make out anything definitive from that video either. Bearing noise is usually described as whine rather than a buzz, but really all anyone can recommend sight unseen is a proper cleaning and lube.

Reels can be sent to: Delaware Valley Tackle 2739 Gold Key Est Milford, PA 18337 Cost for forum members is $16.20 ($18-10%) plus shipping and parts (if needed). Please enclose a repair order from our website with contact info including BassResource.com screen name.

I consider smoothness more importatnt in bass tackle primarily because 10 lbs of drag is more than adequate for bass and as Jfrancho mentioned, the drag protects the whole power-train.

Once a graphite blank is compromised, the rate of failure increases dramatically. Exactly when or if it will actually fail is any one's guess. Go ahead and fish it keeping in mind normal rod handling such as avoiding "High Sticking" or anything else that flexes the rod tip beyond 90* to the blank and hope for the best.

We see this Bag-O-Parts scenario all too often, and invariably something is missing or damaged.