Delaware Valley Tackle

I wouldn’t be as worried about doing damage as I would not liking the feel. Overweighted rods can have a mushy feeling especially with a pegged weight. All you can do is try it. On the other side, 2oz might be more than you really need for conditions. I don’t know if I even own any weights that heavy.

Brakes don’t affect casting distance so much as backlash control during the cast. If you’re not back lashing they’re likely working.

I have a few c3 & 4 for big baits, pike and carp fishing. I’ve got few old ones too that are for sale.

This system does not work well on all guide models. Extra high frame “match” guides at least or the original Fuji Kr.

The size of the backing has no bearing on casting, but you wasted some money using fluoro as backing. The problem isn’t braid it’s wrong braid (too thin diameter), bait vs practice plug, poor setup (too loose for learning, and throwing slack into the line during retrieve. You need to clear the spool occasionally of loops and slack.

I like Fins approach with the different grades. In general my short answer to the op is no. 20# should be more than sufficient unless the bigger reel is for heavier spinning applications in which case maybe 40#

Of course you could use one or the other but you paid for dual braking, why wouldn’t you take full advantage of what your equipment offers?

Ya, it’s impossible to say sight unseen. Impacts on hard surfaces obviously aren’t good for them but I’d hate to think a shaft would bend that easily.

No You’re starting to beat a dead horse here. If the drag has carbon make sure it’s clean , grease it if you want to. As suggested, the adjustment mechanism isn’t all that precise. If that’s what you truly want/need a step up in reels is where you should focus your energies.

This is how I do it. Never an issue.

Is it spooled with braid? If so did you use backing? If not, 99% the braid is slipping on the spool.

There’s no advantage to cranking down the spool tension knob but you could dimple the spacers. As long as you keep slack out of the braid you’re fine. It doesn’t need to be crushingly tight.

Those washers come like that. The reason is anyones guess. Reinstall as you found them, tabs down.

There’s no need for tape backing on any it braid. All you need is a strip so the braid has some traction and won’t slip. Mono backing saves on expensive mainline that will never see the light of day as Scott H pointed out.

What can I say? I’m a slacker.

That’s handled but if anyone has trouble getting me, my contacts are: email- mlawson@delawarevalleytackle.com phone- 973-459-2835 Bass Resource - PM Facebook/Instagram - Delaware Valley Tackle website- delawarevalleytackle.com Smoke Signal- ….

I’m here and don’t have any missed calls or emails. I’ll check my Pam folder. In the meantime call me: 973-459-2835 mike Value points I discuss with customers regularly. I won’t do/charge for anything that’s not appropriate or beneficial.

You’ve gotten the straight scoop here. Proceed as you see fit with confidence.

You can pitch cast with every rod in your arsenal. If you feel you need a particular length, power, action to get the accuracy and lure speed to skip well just follow that path.

Feel free to send it in at your convenience. Contact me with any questions you have.

Again, there is no standard definition of a “micro” guide. Guides are sized by the ID of the frame ring (OD of the insert). At one point in time a size 6 running guide and top was pretty standard. I think Duckett used 3’s which is really small. A size 4 will pass a well tied Alberto knot between 50# braid and 15# mono. Some rod maker touted “macro” guides, another made up term, which I estimate to be 5 or 5.5. The correct guide is the smallest, lightest that will pass your connections, stand up to the application and serve the environment (ice, algae…).

DC braking is effective but I imagine could get you in trouble if you have unrealistic expectations. You can backlash anything if you try hard enough and on the other side, I’ve not handled a reel that was so wild it was un-fishable.

Ya, I don’t see any need to sweat this. In the grand scheme of things there are lots more important reel care practices. I don’t recommend locking down a drag for use let alone storage.

The difference between those two ratios is not a mechanical advantage either way. 100% personal preference. There is no provable argument that either is better or more versatile.

A GOOD 2-3 piece rod is nearly indistinguishable from a COMPARABLE 1 piece. The problem is that it’s very rare to find that scenario. Modern built in ferrules are very well made in quality rods but people are jaded by their experience with lower quality rods (and thus ferrules) so they demand one piece in their longer quality rods. Since sensitivity can’t be measured, all we have are opinions this one just happens to be mine.