S Hovanec

I have both L and ML in 6'6" Avids. I feel there is a whole power missing between them. Go with the ML.

After a couple coming loose after being in the rod locker in the summer, I started using 5 min. epoxy on my tips. No more loose tips.

If you turn the cork so the rings are a little snug, they won't come loose, no matter which cork you use.

Flared Straight

I do them both ways. On a one piece rod, the stripper guide keeps you from losing the ring to the front and the butt grip keeps it from leaving off the back. On the 4 piece I just did, I turned it in 2 halves with a flare on each end. I did it that way because there is no guide on the bottom piece to hold the ring.

Split Tennessee is my favorite and the Aero installed uplocking (backwards) is my second favorite.

I have a white SCV Inshore, but I'm not gonna wrap mine in white. Did a few test wraps with some light blues. I really like the look of prowrap teal. Purple on pink will look great, especially if its that RodGeeks neon pink. Just a FYI, they also have a new metallic purple. Ooh, how about a 2 tone pink/purple?!?!

No doubt it'll make wrapping easier. I grind the feet til they're almost like a knife edge. Good call on painting the feet too.

That wrap looks pretty tight! White is a hard color to work with. Only thing I'll comment on is if you taper the nose of the guide foot, it's easier to wrap and it makes a nicer transition from blank to guide foot.

If it's a production rod, it's cookie cutter. I believe they are just a production rod built on a NFC HM blank. You can get a one of a kind built on the same blank fir less. Why buy something that others have?

Before I dropped $500+ on the Edge, I'd get a custom built on a NFC. My first choice would be a custom on a St Croix SCV though.

Where I used to run in to interference is when the signal cones from the front and back transducers (operating on the same frequency) crossed. For my installation, this happened in water 20' and deeper. The front sonar would read double the actual depth with small horizontal lines scattered on the screen. The rear sonar would read the correct depth, but wound mark no fish. I fixed this by operating the sonars on 2 different frequencies.

I'm not ashamed to admit I'm a Shimano geek, both spinning and casting. I have 2 reels of that aren't Shimano and they never get used. Might as well sell them and buy more Shimano!

Go for it. I run a 17' boat with a 10" on the bow and a 5" and 7" on the dash.

You will want to consult your rodbuilder. I set up the guide train differently for a 1000 compared to a 2500/3000 reel. If they set the rod up for a 1000 size, the casting distance may suffer if you use a 2500 in it.

Nice to hear you like it. I'll be ordering a couple JDM FKs shortly.

First time I noticed it was on a batch of Legend Tournaments at a Field & Stream store.

I wax every rod that leaves my shop with spray furniture polish. A can of Pledge or Behold lasts me for years.

Not a repair. St Croix has been doing this for the last couple years. Not sure why as I've never had the need to put any guide less than 3" from the tip.

I've never done anything to my 05 Lund/06 Honda, other than change the oil and add gas.

I've never done one, but read where some are done with Rod Bond and others use thread finish and prop the rod on a dryer, with the tip up so the finish runs to the reel seat.

I'll agree there. I love St Croix's MLXF. I've had the Avid, SCIV and SCV in 6'9" and the SCV 6'10".

The guides on one of my DS rods cost almost that much.

Hi, my name is Scott and I'm addicted to dropshot rods. I haven't even caught a fish on the last one I acquired and just last week, another blank showed up. This one is a 5S610MLXF-G.......the forest green pearl one.

I use 15# Tuf-Line with a 6# Inviz-X leader, Owner Mosquito hooks (and I nose hook all plastics) and a MLXF rod and I still have some fish come unbuttoned. I also have a Mag-Lite/XF NFC dropshot and I really feel it's underpowered.