BobP

Balancing is most useful on rods used for "still presentations" like worms, C-Rigs, and jigs where you let the bait sit still and feel for a bite. On moving bait presentations, the rod is always tip heavy anyway so balancing is much less useful. Personally, I cut off the butt cap, insert weight into the blank and re-glue the butt cap on the rod with epoxy. Use a single edge razor blade and the modification is virtually undetectable. 3 or 4 straight pins through the back of the butt cap will hold it on the rod tightly while the epoxy cures.

As long as the eyes fit into an eye socket on the head, it doesn't matter much what you coat them with. If you want to put stick-on eyes on a curved head that has no eye socket, that is a real goat rope. Eyes with flat bases tend to pop off a curved surface before any topcoat can dry/cure, and any topcoat containing solvent will tend to dissolve the glue under the eyes.

This year's Chronarch or Curado would be a G series, not an E series, right? The E series Curado from last year is very close to the new 2012 G series Chronarch, with the exception of a slightly different drag and different paint (or so I hear). I recently got a Curado 50E and really like it. If $30 is enough to sway your choice, go with the Curado G. If you like the name and color of the Chronarch E, a $30 difference is not much. But I think they are essentially the same reel and they started retail at the same $199 price.

Nobody can say one balsa bait is better or worse than another, whatever the source, until they fish them. You can make a balsa bait that is durable and has a unique action that is impossible to find in a factory bait. That can be productive. Factory baits tend to be more uniform and have less variability. That's not a bad thing if the factory bait is a good one. What you're really hoping to get in a handmade bait is a unique action and/or color scheme that can catch you more fish than a standard factory bait.

The controversy will go away as last stocks of the Curado E's disappear from retailers' shelves. Then, you'll like a new model Shimano G reel or will prefer a model from another manufacturer based on your own biases, budget, reputation, or features. Differences in quality among manufacturers is narrowing and choices are getting harder - but your chance of buying a great reel is getting better. In the meantime, I'm happy for the inconsistency in the Shimano line because I can buy a G model reel with more of the features I think are important, at a big discount. Instead of getting my nose out of joint, I just want to see what's available and choose the one that's best for me. Next year, I'll do the same again. And again, etc.

I think most of us would pick and choose models from among the different brands depending on running depth, action, etc. But JMHO, yes, if you look at their baits as a whole, I think Rapala is as good as any and better than most, even when compared to some of the Japanese brands. Few brands contain so many good/great crankbaits, especially good balsa crankbaits. I chalk that up to the Rapala DT series of crankbaits, with the addition of a few others like the Shad Rap, a classic favorite. BTW, you could do worse if you looked at the latest issue of Bassmaster magazine and bought the crankbaits mentioned in their article on the 10 most sought after crankbaits. Most of them are economical models costing less than $7.

It's obvious that the G series reels are a re-calibration of the line in terms of features and price. I think it's mostly about exchange rates and manufacturing cost in Asia. When Shimano's mid-range Curados got jacked up in price to what American buyers used to pay for Chronarchs (and during an economic downturn), the line was out of whack and sales began to suffer. I don't think the changes for 2012 have anything to do with quality, which is a good as ever across the Shimano lines. Where the G versus previous E models matter right now: you can find previous year E model Curados with better features compared to current G models, and at good prices. For instance, a 2011 Curado 50E can be found new in box online for $133. It originally sold for $199, then was reduced to $179 by Shimano. If you want a 2012 Shimano G with exactly the same features as the 2011 Curado E, you have to buy a Chronarch 50 for $199. So picking up a Curado 50E looks like a sweet deal. I have Curado 200B's from 1999 that still work flawlessly. They have plastic star drags and side plates that have worked perfectly for over 13 yrs and I consider plastic versus aluminum for those parts a non-issue. In fact the plastic may be superior. It will take a lick without permanently deforming like metal will. But to each his own... As far as manufacture in Malaysia versus Japan, beauty is as beauty does. I bought a Japanese market Biomaster spinning reel several years ago and like it very much. I looked at the reel foot and guess what? Made in Malaysia. On a Japanese domestic market reel. That pretty much settled questions I had about Malaysia vs Japan manufacture for Shimano reels. If someone who owns a Shimano reel complains about its quality or features, I'll pay attention. But JMHO, taking pot shots at stuff you've never owned or used isn't very useful.

I use mostly Shimano but have a 2 yr old SX too. Compared to my (last year's) Curado 50E, which is better? I haven't had a minute of trouble from either, so for me it's a draw. I like the SX mag brakes - they work very well and the external control is nice. I wish I had passed on the 7:1 gears; JMHO, they're too steep for comfort. The Curado is lighter and I bet it will be as trouble free through the years as all my Shimanos have been.

I've never had a problem with BassPro XPS fluoro. Buy some during their annual Spring Sale and it's a steal.

If you look at a test chart listing viscosity, shear coefficient, and temperature stability, Hot Sauce oil stacks up pretty darned good against many of the alternatives. That said, I hate the stuff because the red dye they douse it with migrates all over the inside the reel. Maybe it's throwing out the baby with the bath water but when I crack open a reel for service, I don't want it to look like a mouse was crushed to death in there. If they did away with the dye, I'd use it since it is available at local stores at a competitive price. The dye is just a marketing ploy that I don't appreciate.

Before declaring the A-rig the greatest thing since sliced bread, maybe we should evaluate results in other seasons when bass behavior and distribution patterns are different than in the fall. Am I gonna try it? Yes. And I hope it will work great - but I'm tired of jumping on the Latest-Greatest New Lure Bandwagon every year.

There really isn't a solvent that's good at removing cured epoxy. Denatured alcohol is among the mildest of solvents and has almost no effect on epoxy, in fact I use it to clean surface stains on epoxied crankbaits. I'm with DVT about using a razor blade or Xacto knife to remove it. Moderate heating with a hair dryer first will make it softer.

A couple of websites, like Tackleunderground.com, specialize in crankbait building techniques. You can buy balsa bodies and lips from Janns Netcraft or lurepartsonline.com. JMHO, building good crankbaits has a learning curve about how to shape and finish wood and how to design baits, plus it requires some equipment and supplies. Most guys ease into it by first learning how to paint and modify crankbaits before jumping in the deep end with bait design and construction.

I've had one for several years now and like it. It's the only mag brake reel I own and wanted to try it versus all the centrifugal brake reels I own. The brakes work just fine and I have no more, maybe even fewer backlashes with the SX than with my Shimano reels and the external cast control is an advantage. Casts well, smooth retrieve - what's not to like?

Some guys like to use the handles of Xacto knives to hold baits by a hook hanger. I use locking forceps, clipping them on the lip or on a 'false lip' inserted in the lip slot. It really doesn't matter how you do it as long as it works for you. As far as scale netting, most drape the netting over the lure's back and then tension the netting with clothespins or clips at the bottom of the lure, and the top as needed. If you like to hold your lure in a stationary fixture like a vise while painting, you can also clip netting into an embroidery hoop and just hold it agains the lure's shoulders.

Try this: http://www.tackleworks.org/ It's a directory of custom rod builders broken down by state, as maintained by rodbuilding.org - the professional rod building website

The only commercial crank I know that will get down to 22 ft in independent testing is a 3/4 oz Luhr Jensen Hot Lips Express on 10 lb mono. I sorta trust a Rapala DT-20 will get to 20 ft because the DT series baits are one of the few that actually dive to their advertised depths.

Copolymer and fluorocarbon are heavier than braid so a spool full is heavier. Heavier spool = more cast control since the spinning mass is greater.

"They" say set your drag to 1/4-1/3 the stated break strength of your line, so if you're bass fishing with 20 lb line, you'd never need more than 7 lbs of drag. Of course, stated break strength of line is always lower than the tested break strength and very few guys use a tension scale to set the drags on their reels. You can tighten down the drag on a reel until it is locked and absolutely will not move, so I think the advertised drag strength is a pretty iffy spec to start with. Bottom line, I wouldn't worry about relative advertised drag ratings - the only thing that counts is whether you think the drag on that particular reel is strong enough and smooth enough to handle the line/rod/lure combo that you're gonna be throwing.

Jim, the cheapest/best way to repaint it would be to use rattle cans (exterior spray paint) and then coat the bait with spray-on exterior urethane clearcoat to give the paint some protection. This will not be as permanent as the original finish but should work for awhile. Lightly sand the bait with 400 grit sand paper and wash it in soap and water before you begin painting. If you need to paint the eyes again, spray some paint onto tin foil, dip in a Q-tip and press it on the bait. Come back with a water based black marker pen and paint in the irises. Buy the paint and clearcoat from the same manufacturer so it will be compatible, otherwise you can get bubbling and other problems.

After mixing the epoxy, try mixing in a FEW drops of denatured alcohol. It will thin the mix slightly, allow the bubbles to escape, and extend the brush time by several minutes. But it will not extend the cure time as many other solvents will. I also use a fine bristle artist's brush to apply epoxy and it seems to help pop the bubbles. Doesn't have to be an expensive brush, cheap artist brushes work fine and will last indefinitely if you clean them in lacquer thinner afterwards.

I've never exercised a rod warranty and would go for the warrant-less deal. There is no free lunch. Those of us who don't abuse gear have to pay for the guys who regularly trash theirs when we buy rods with lifetime warranties. Making the warranty optional like Powel is doing gives you a choice, so what's not to like?

Personally, I like an airbrush with a .3mm tip, if you want one brush that can do it all on crankbaits. My choice is an Iwata Revolution B - a high quality brush with everything I like: all chromed metal, gravity feed, small paint cup but large enough for crankbaits, and it sells for the very good price of around $80. .3mm is small enough to do some detail work but large enough to shoot pearls and flakes and to do all-over painting on a crankbait. Crankbait painters shoot at anything from 10 psi to 45 psi. So you want a compressor that has a SUSTAINED psi of at least 45 psi. Most compressors advertise their MAX psi, which is usually about 15 psi more than the SUSTAINED psi during use. So get one with a MAX psi of at least 60. Among hobby crankbait painters, regular tool compressors rated for 100+ psi and incorporating an air storage tank are very popular due to their performance and low cost. You need the compressor, an adjustable pressure regulator, and a moisture trap. The regulator/trap is an add-on item sold in home centers for around $25-30. Createx water based acrylic paint is the dominant airbrush paint here in the U.S. Topcoat your baits with a durable waterproof product like epoxy or moisture cured urethane.

I think the underspin is much easier for kids with limited hand/arm strength to cast and retrieve, especially with a fish on. As far as adults go, I thought underspins were bush league until I fished with a buddy who used an old Abu Gold Max 507 (long discontinued) to pitch dropshots to bedding bass. The 507 is almost unique. It has an oversize spool and when you tap the front of the spool with your forefinger, it releases the line which shoots around and catches on your finger, ready to cast. My buddy can wax anybody using a regular spinning reel, as far as speed of getting a lure to a fish with it, and the oversize spool handles line well. As far as push button spinning reels on top of the rod, I think they are OK if small and light but get unwieldy if they are large and heavy, like the Zebco Omega.

I got some 20# 832 last fall and put it on a 2500 spinning reel, and have used it 6-7 times, including in salt water. It's thinner than any other braid I've seen for it's stated test strength. The light green color has lasted OK to date and I like light green. The 832 is tightly woven and incudes one Gore fiber in the weave, which makes it sink very slowly (not as fast as fluoro). To me, it's an advantage when fishing unweighted plastics since floating braids tends to bow up over the bait and mask strikes while the 832 acts more like a copolymer line. I think you could probably use it on topwater lures since the sink rate is very slow. I have no complaints so far and would buy it again - but I agree it's sorta pricey. I'm not a fan of braided line except in limited circumstances, but this seems one of the best I've tried.