flechero

The 9 and the 45 are both proven effective with good shot placement. Both are also proven ineffective with poor shot placement. The bottom line is to buy something that you will actually carry, and carry what you shoot well. In my case, I prefer the 45 but carry the 9 more often because in guns I currently own, the 9 fits into my summer time dress code easier. Hoping to change that with a new XDs, so I can carry the 45 more often.

Didn't read the last 2 pages but wanted to say what's missing in this argument in the 1st 2 pages is this: Big baits don't necessarily mean big fish but big baits eliminate many of the of smaller fish. Which can be key in certain scenarios where a smaller faster bass will gobble the bait up before the bigger bass can get to it. I've seen it happen while sight fishing, many times.

Use whatever soft plastic baits you have confidence in for that body of water. My personal preference is for C-rigging is a Zoom lizard or Smallie beaver) but that's based on my fishing locations. I have C-rigged almost every variety of soft plastic I have ever owned... and caught fish on almost all of them, at onle place or another.

I'd give it back. It will come back around on that guy, it always does.

The actual measureable difference in blanks would be smaller than most (all?) people could detect, given that the blanks in the line of rods is constructed of the same materials, and finished with the same components. You are seeing peoples perceptions ranking them, as DVT mentioned. (or perhaps the model mentioned balances better with most reels) Sure there will be some minor variance from rod to rod based on things like guide placement and fitting of cork, etc. but very few people would feel a difference in the actual vibration transmitted. Set aside things like tip action, which is often a visual cue. Many would argue that the light delicate tip would actually dampen the vibration making it less "sensitive". And to confuse it all further, you have hands to consider... no two people feel the exact same things. We joke about people having hands of stone sometimes, but some really don't have the ability to feel the lighter vibrations transmitted. ** Blindfold someone and let them hold 2 rods in the same line and apply vibration to the tip (better to do it through a weighted line) and see who can actually feel the difference... I've done this with people and it really seperates the fact from fiction.

You have to thin out what you carry. With the excess baits and plano boxes I keep 2 large rubbermaid bins in my boat storage unit and put all my doubles/triples and unneeded boxes in them. The only good suggestion I have for you is that I started seperating sizes in my soft plastic bags... so I can grab specific tackle bags when I hook up the boat, based on where I'm going or time of year. All my magnum sized baits- lizards, flukes and double wide beavers are a seperate bag. I also keep a seperate finess bag with all small stuff... it only goes to certain lakes as well. On occasion you'll miss somethiogn but 99% of the time you just don't need it all with you. Same with plano boxes... try to leave a few in the boat storage stall, based on where I'm going. Again, same with rods... I leave the big stuff home if fishing belton and leave the finess rods home if fishing stillhouse. Tackle organization is something you need to work hard at to be any good at... I'm still working on it. ...lol

I think the carpet rule is long overdue. I got sick of seeing fish flung high into a boat and then allowed to drop on a slack line into the bottom of a boat. It's nice to see them being held to the standard that many of us recreational fisherman already hold ourselves to.

It's the indian, not the bow or arrow. Give me an old 80's round abu and the rod of the era and I can still rattle cans at whatever (reasonable) distance you choose... just as I can with my custom rods and "nice" reels of today. (pitching or casting, it makes no difference to the equipment)

I believe that the predator instinct is much stronger than the lunar influence. And that would also support the fact that good fisherman catch fish regardless of moon phase and height. The lunar charts don't say anything about you being in the right place, using the right baits or knowing what to do that day. Just because a fish might be a little more willing to feed, doesn't mean he'll eat your lure! Worry about & work on the things you can influence, and you'll be a much better fisherman.

Easily, but I cut and retie often enough from wear on the rocks, ad a retie everytime I want to change baits (instead of picking up another rod) and I would get less enjoyment out of the day. One rod/reel isn't much of a technique handicap for me, most of my rods are similar power/action/configuration... & I have no trouble casting light to heavy on the same rod. But what would I do with all the extra money? ...lol

Trolling is no more cheating than using a reel to work the lure. But like the rest, I usually find it pretty boring.

Glad your dog is ok! PM sent.

Great info already given, so I'll just add that for $2 or so you can have a couple marker bouys to toss out and keep stuff marked... in a small alum. boat, those were key for me as i was constanly getting blown around and having to triangulate, mentally, to stay on stuff.

There are actually quite a few rod builders on this site. It's much like any other hobby that is either artsy or technical (rodbuilding is really some of both) some do it well and some just don't have the aptitude. It takes a little practice to get the basics down but it's not "difficult" if you are patient. There are a number of jigs and tools you'll need but you can make many of them. There is much to see and read if you search this section. It's incredibly gratifying to build and then catch on your own rods. Now, doing it for a living is something else entirely. Very few people actually make a living on rodbuilding... some make enough cash to fund the hobby... but if you ever plan to charge for one, research of the sportfishing excise tax. You should also look around in the rod building forum for a real glimse of the detail. http://rodbuilding.org/list.php?2

I use Owner for all my replacements and they are SO MUCH BETTER than the originals... sharper and stronger. Even new baits I'll lose fish occasionally but with the owners I almost never lose a fish once hooked. The difference is surprising. For a while, I was even replacing hooks on the new baits I bought because it was that noticable. They are a little more expensive but the difference is cents per hook, not dollars so there is no reason to skimp.

There is a lot more to it than the reel... the rod, line and especially the user make a huge difference in casting lighter weight baits. Having said all that, I used ABU's for about 20 years and will say that you will likely spend what you could buy a new reel for, in upgrading that one to do what you are really wanting. For heavier baits, those reels are still great, but for light stuff there are MANY better options out there.

Well, that's a long story.... but glad to be fishing again and have internet access at home!

Back when I went to lighter rods and reels, I quickly realized that it would require replacement of most combos... sounds like you are on your way!

As long as the guide still has the insert you won't notice anything different. If bent a couple times it will eventually break. As mentioned, replacing a guide is an easy fix and prettty inexpensive to have done locally. On a side note- night fishing will force you to learn to keep a boat organized and will teach you to put things in the exact same spot all the time... or it will cost you a lot of money. Trust me, I can get to almost any thing in my boat with my eyes closed. How- I have broken my fair share of rods and guides while night fishing in the early years!

When a blank is made, they roll material up around a mandrel, apply resin and bake. (that's oversimplified but you get the point) Hard to tell since your pic is a little blurry but it could be a run in the material or an overlap. How far does it extend? And can you feel it? It's probable that you'd never notice or have an issue... but on the off chance it does ever break, that would likely be the spot. Worth an email to with a clearer pic to the mfr to be safe.

a Q-tip works great... if really dirty add some warm soapy water.

As someone that used to ship a lot of rods, I can say that the best option for me was Fedex. If you consider tracking, delivery times and CLAIMS... Fedex was the best service. Sooner or later you will have a claim, so knowing the process was smooth and easy vs. a minimum 12 week whipfest with USPS, the extra few bucks was nothing. As for initial price, they were always within $2 - $5 of USPS and less than UPS. Insurance cost was cheap as well. I've had USPS break sched. 40 tubes... and then acuse me of shotty packaging. I asked if all future shipments should be packed to withstand the weight of being run over by a forklift!!

If you compare apples to apples in coverage, I've always gotten the best rate by using the company that has my auto, home and umbrella... the discounts apply to multiple policies so for example, my boat policy (just changed it over to safeco last month) was about the same but the multi-policy discounts changed my auto and umbrella rates so that the addition of the boat actually netted me a $200+ difference. As for claims, I have only had a claim on State Farm and they were great on the boat.

Under warranty, impellers need to be changed annually. After that- all but one boat mechanic I ever asked said 2-3 years, unless there is a problem (obviously).

Lots of great suggestions here, and you can almost see a regional influence. Don't forget spare fuse(s) and a prop pin for the trolling motor, and fuses for the switchblock if your boat has them. Also 2 spare drain plugs and a clip on hat light for the glovebox... eventually you will need them.