Gary_Snyder

Big game has as high a stretch rate as you can get in mono....which can be helpful in some cases......it tends to put less force on knots.......and some say stretch helps with abrasion resistance. Some of you guys using big game - have you ever considered trying something with less stretch? Trilene XT has very high knot strength but more moderate stretch.

Stiffer rods and shorter rods are said to have more sensitivity - possibly because of a higher resonate frequency.

Hmmm......if you go down in size with mono/fluoro, the line will tend to stretch easier (and if you go up in line size, less stretch), so it might be a wash, with little to no difference in depth?

Supposedly Shimano used to use (I don't know if they still do?) a special grease which made their reels smoother. Maybe Lew's is doing the same thing?

The bass in Florida don't seem to care about line color........I can use that bright yellow line and get just as many hits? Perhaps different fish and different areas are different though? Spiderwire EZ mono comes in Fluorescent blue - it's just like XL (comes from the same parent company, Purefishing)

I think a youtube reviewer Tackle Advisors, or something like that has reviewed one or more of those reels. I don't think they did very well? I personally would look at brands like Abu, Pflueger, Mitchell, Daiwa, Okuma, or Shimano.

I use Fluoro most of the time also. I like the sensitivity and less problems on windy days. But for topwater fishing, I use some old Berkley Ironsilk made in 2007! I still have four or five spools of it. It sinks slower than regular mono.

I usually look for a reel that's around 7 ounces. This tip could save you a lot of money.

I don't know, but I would think you could fish the Bassmaster's Classic with a $60 spinning reel and a Bionic Blade rod? I would not go with the cheapest hooks and line, however.

Those mono lines with Fluorocarbon in them don't "do" anything special....there is not enough fluoro in them to make a difference (That said, some of them are fine monos). If you want something that's like fluoro, you have to go all the way with 100% fluoro

Mono and copoly are the same thing. Copolymer is a marketing hype term. There are very few 100% nylon 66 lines available today, you would be hard-pressed to find one - the vast majority are a soup-mix of ingredients. Fuoro is different though - it contains no nylon.

I have some 13 year old Berkley Ironsilk....... it's susceptible to UV damage, and sure enough, it breaks in my hands. But If I peel off the first 20 feet of line on the outside of the spool, the line underneath tests good.

Gamma Polyflex. I don't know if it's available on Amazon though, you would have to check. It's also available on the Gamma site.

9-turn clinch knot. (Not improved. And do not double the line.) It may not cinch up well every time...sometimes you have to cut it off and try again. Be careful, if tied well it can be very strong.

I have a question about Daiwa 2500 size spinning reels.......... I saw a review where the bail wire cracks knuckles on retrieve......... sure enough, the reel stem looks kinda short for that reel...... ( I don't want to go into Bass Pro Shops during a pandemic to play with reels) anybody have a complaint like that? Do you prefer a 2000 size reel because of it? Thanks guys. Happy New Year!

I usually look for a bass reel around 7 ounces. I've tried lighter reels but it does not seem to make a difference. That's a money-saver. Thanks for the feedback guys!

Hey guys, how are the Zaion body Daiwa spinning reels like Procyon, Tatula, Ballistic, etc. Compared to the low end reels like Fuego, Excelor, Regal, Legalis, etc? I've seen some reports of stem twisting/flexing on the $100 and down reels. But maybe it was earlier versions, maybe Diawa fixed it since then? Are the Zaion bodies more rigid? Do you think it's a worthwhile upgrade? Thank you.

So this post has me thinking about 100 dollar reels...... I need some guest reels for bass fishing and want something light but good for friends and family and don't want to spend $200.00 (sound familiar?!) I am eyeing the Fuego LT 2500D. It has bearings in all the right places except for the line roller..... where a reel does not have a bearing it will have a plastic bushing, and those tend to wear out quick...... I guess I might have to replace it every year or two.......but that's an easy one, you don't have to go into the gear case to replace it. And I know the reel is going to flex more than a metal reel or even a tougher, higher end carbon/plastic reel......... but it might be okay for bass fishing? Your rod flexes anyway. Another bonus is, I might be able to replace the knob bushing with a bearing? I live close to Boca Bearings. I like the light weight, and the low gear ratio should make it a smooth reel..... and the oversized spool would help with line handling and drag. I might pick one up to play with.

The Tica reels are nice but heavy. I think they were a sister company of Diawa at one point. Let's see............. the Nasci is a heavy reel with 4 bearings........I'd like to see at least 6 bearings. An anti-reverse switch can be handy.......once in a blue moon, your line might get tangled around the reel.....if you don't have an anti-reverse switch, you might have to cut the line to free it. I'd look at an Okuma Inspira or Helios

Some old baitcasters did not even have a levelwind. Perhaps a few saltwater/catfish reels still don't?

I would not say that fluoro is a must, but it's helpful: 1) For sensitivity when fishing baits where the line sometimes goes slack, like soft plastics. 2) Windy conditions. 3) Maybe when you want your line to sink faster - as an example, to get a crankbait to run deeper.

Oh no, the backreeling topic again. Nonsense! Sure, I used to backreel - when I was eleven, did not know how to set a drag, and had a reel with a bent wire for bail wire (no line roller!). But I grew up. Me and my buddies have been powerfishing plastics with light spinning gear and line (ten pound mono and now fluoro) for decades........we do the full Bill Dance hookset and rely on the drags to spin a little on a hard hookset.......... if the drags were not adequate, there would be no way we could get away with this technique without breaking the light line. If you get a huge fish and are concerned the line might be nicked, just turn the drag down a little during the fight, it's so easy to do with just a little practice. However, we don't use leaders - I've never found a line-to-line leader knot that I liked, so a leader knot might be a weak point. I'm sorry, but grow up and learn how to fish!

It's true that if you are not burning up a lot of line due to abrasion / retying, fluorocarbon will outlast mono several times over and actually be cheaper in the long run (Because it does not absorb water and cycle from wet-to-dry)! Also, the fluoro sinks faster and can help get baits deeper - if you need that. But - if you want an easier handling line (not that big a deal with crankbaits), a mono with just the right amount of stretch - enough for the fish to suck in the bait, but not too stretchy for the fisherman - some to try would be Gamma Polyflex, Stren Magnathin, P-line CXX. I think Gamma is the best overall.

Okuma Inspira. Lightweight, tough, and smooth. Or maybe the Dicks' Okuma Stratus VI if you can find it on sale cheaper..... amazing for the price.

lol on matching the line to reel! You know what though - admit it - looks count!! Go ahead and match da accessories girlfriend! lol. And remember....... it's all about the sauce (dipping sauce), all about the shoes, and all 'bout dat bass (music, you crazy fishermen!)! I like to see my line and prefer clear-blue florescent whenever I can get it (mono and fluorocarbon). The bass where I fish don't seem to be line-shy, but the yellow lines skeer me away, lol...... that bright color is just too obnoxious to me, the fisherman. But give it 20 years, when my eyesight goes......I'll be fishing the bright yellow stuff then!