hitchhiker

Any ideas on storing jerkbaits without pulling out every single one in a tangled mess? Tried the Falcon boxes, but they don't hold enough baits. Anyone use hook bonnets? Are they a pain in the a$$ to take off when it gets cold out?

Yes, but will they have the qualities in a line that I'm looking for? Abrasion resistance, stretch, no stretch? Like you said, each individual has to find the line that they prefer. Will you go with a line just because it has such and such quality typed on the package, or because someone says they love it? You may or may not, but actual line capacity is the original posters question.

Of course I would have to try it to see if it's the right line for me. Just like everything else in the world...

That's usually written on the package. I know that, but if they gave the actual breaking strength for the actual line diameter, it would make more sense to me than marketing a 15 lb line that breaks at 25+.

Line diameters on mono vary from manufacturer to manufacturer depending on lb test. As a result your actual capacity will vary as well. 65 PP is supposed to be 15lb dia? You should have enough line. I wish line manufacturers would go to a more uniform system to rate their lines. Line diameter would be IDEAL.

How right you are!

What length/action rod you prefer? Mostly longer/softer rods for when there are long casts light cover involved. Close in/heavy line/heavy cover heavy slower rods. What reel/gear ratio do you prefer? Shallow 6:1 deep 12 foot plus 5:1 What type of line you use? 10-15lb P-line fluoroclear (because I have bulk spools of it)

Hmmm... have the Core 50, but would not ever think of spending that on a spinning reel. What's the best spinning reel?

Where can I get this * ? What is the gear ratio on this * ? How much 1/2 lb test does this * hold ? How much is this * ? I'll pay anything for this * ...

It may be to just my untrained eye, but it seems that the eye placement of some craw painted lures are finally in the right place for a craw painted crank. For whatever it's worth, I'll still be slinging the baitfish patterns for as long as they catch fish. I don't live, eat, or sleep underwater, but in my mind's eye...

Verrrry Nice. I wish I could paint baits.

I 've always said it, it ain 't the wand it 's the magician, heck, I can fish with a Coke can spooled with 100 yards of line and whup some rear ends, not that I do it a lot but I 've done it. Perhaps in your neck of the woods, but the guy with the 8 foot rod with a strong baitcaster and 65 spectra throwing frogs in the mats will woop yours. :-X Besides that, gear changes all the time just like ugly sticks used to be high end. If you can't stand to see another "what's best?" post, don't click on it. May as well shut down the whole site if you think it's worthless reading.

Not a fanboy, just a dude. There's something I like in each and somethings that I don't. Favorite website...Tackle Warehouse

Also, how does the spool rim look?

Don't know if if it's just glare from the pic, but the circle on the lower right end of the reel (where the spool rim would be) looks like it's shinier than the rest of it. Probably just glare, but that large ring doesn't have the same oxidation as the rest of the machine marks. Could indicate some sort of grinding of spool against frame imperfection, but like I said it 's probably glare.

You don't need to use JB Weld or 5 minute epoxy. Should the tip get damaged again the use of those will make it way more difficult to remove the top even to the point where it will damage the blank. Find a stick of tip cement or even a hot glue gun stick and use that. It's what the tackle shop will use. If you're unsure about it bring it to your tackle shop. It's a cheap easy fix.

x2 and don't forget the jerkbaits.

More reason to have two sets of rods! ;D Back to the main topic, I have built a few rods with micros, and really like them. Line seems to come off the reel smoother which in turn could translate into fewer backlashes and longer casts. They also lighten up the tip section allowing the blank to bend the way that it was designed, and feels less tip heavy.

as decent as they were, they weren't being used. Liked my Daiwa Sol's and Fuego's too much. Throw a Revo or three in the mix. Well, I sold them off, and picked up a Curado 50E and really liked it! Bought a Curado 200E5 and 200E7 and don't like them. Never used them. Went and bought a Core50MG7. All I can say is WOW! Lesson learned! Buy high quality over high quantity. Who wants a deal on a pair of Curado 200's E5 & E7? I want another Core!!!

They probably wanted you to send it in because the heat applied to the tip could damage the blank and cause you more grief. If you do, do it yourself, don't twist the top after you heat it! Give a straight pull to get it off cleanly. I believe it's a 6 ring 4.5 tube Fuji Alconite top.

Somebody please post a picture of a guide with a hardloy, aluminum oxide, sic insert that has a groove cut into it that was not cracked to begin with please. I have seen stainless or wire guides worn down, and have seen guides that have been abused/mistreated, but would like to see a genuine Fuji or even Pac Bay guide that is grooved from the friction of mono, copoly, fluoro, and braid.

I usually have 2 breakes set and adjust the spool tension or mag setting depending on what type of day I'm having.

I use Sufix braid 10 and 20 on my spinning reels. Not only will you see a difference in sesitivity and longevity, but you'll see a huge reduction in line twist. Also, after you close the bail, give the line a small tug to make sure that any loose coils of line are pulled snug to the spool to avoid those nasty snarls on your next cast. It becomes second nature after a while.

I'm not sure about the eye, but my suspending fat free fingerlings have the word suspending in red near the rear hook loop.

too funny