BASSclary

Your squishing their stomachs? I'd imagine no matter what they eat it will be "squishy". Squeeze your stomach, unless your eating gravel it will generally be squishy.

Kabar, there is absolutely no need for a fluoro leader. I rarely use one, but if the water is gin clear I'll tie on about 3' of fluoro. I try to match the leader just a bit lighter than my mainline, so if I snag no mainline is wasted. Also, the alberto knot is by far the best knot i've ever used to join fluoro and braid. I highly recommend you try it out.

You have no flukes 0.0 FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THINGS FISH GO BUY SOME FLUKES!!! seriously though, flukes are very versatile, and really catch a lot of fish. To start off get a pack of white and watermelon seed.

I'm really looking for a finesse casting rod for weightless trick worms, and very small, light, topwaters. Upper end in weight being 3/16 ounce. Powell doesn't have any ML casting rods so I guess I'll have to look somewhere else :/ Anyways, I think i'm looking for a ML/XF casting rod, thats around the 125-150 range. Pickin' is a little slim haha. Thanks

Not trying to sound like a D**k here, but Vanish is terrible line, and almost everyone here will agree to that. Fluorocarbon to my understanding though is not affected by sunlight the monofilament is. I leave mine on all season. However, fluoro knots do become brittle and I recommend you re-tie every trip. Fluoro does have more memory, but its easily alleviated by using a quality line such as Seaguar InvizX or any other decent brand name. KVD Line and Lure conditioner also helps. I know its hard to ditch $10 line but trust me its worth it. If your going to be using your casting setup for topwater, mono would be the best choice according to most people. Braid also floats, so that may be a more viable option if you also use that setup for jigs and texas rigs, and is what I would do IMO.

Yeah, the only drawback is that it doesn't have much abrasion resistance, but it will fare for general techniques. When you need abrasion resistance there is no better mono out there than Sufix Seige. But if I need abrasion resistance, i'm going fluorocarbon anyways.

Check the bottom of the line guide for wear. When you really try and throw your bait you might be getting really un-noticeable backlashes that can cut your line. That being said, just keep your reel full of line so it doesn't happen.

IMO, all line within the perameters are fine. The only thing I would stray away from is using leaders,the knot can and will get caught on an eye and you'll get a pretty severe backlash. Other than that, thinner is obviously better.

I dont use flouresent line often, but when I do it's Seaguar Senshi . By far the best mono i've ever used.

What is the shipping information? Does he take PayPal? How much is shipping? Sometimes shipping is ridiculously high, and people dont notice. Im not sure there is too much bass in vietnam, (Or a market for St.Croix for that matter) but you never know. Ask him why he's selling it. In the end, go with your gut feeling. If he was located in the US I would say go for it because if you get scammed PayPal and eBay will take care of you, but i'm not so sure of their power outside of the US.

I hope you like LOTS of memory on spinning reels, LOL. Seriously. i'd put it back on the original spool, and just put some 8# on. That way you dont waste the 15#

It no longer hurts, but dang it likes to ooze. it just keep oozing out puss (Good thing I guess) but dang, it sure like to get my socks soaked in it.

My first thought is not enough spool tension.

Daiwa Lexa by far. Looks like it could be the new Curado E for the price point

I could care less. Both catch fish for me, but the YUM's are only 3$ for 10 at wallmart, where Yamamotos are $7 for 8, with less color selections.

Got a third pack today. 4/0 EWG's. They just like sending me hooks I guess!

Your first setup all depends on what you want. I would get an all-around setup, a 7' MH/F. The most important part of learning to use a baitcaster is buying a quality reel. A rod wont help you learn, so invest in a better one down the road. A cheapy rod will be fine for now. I'd spend about 100 dollars of your budget on a reel. Unlike spinning gear, cheap casting gear will sour it's taste, and you will end up not liking casting gear as much as many of us do. I would look for a used Curado E, Revo S, or get a BPS Pro Qualifier. There are quite alot of reels in the $100 dollar range, and its hard to go wrong with a Daiwa, Abu, or Shimano. I'd pair that up with a cheap Lightning rod until you know you enjoy casting reels, at which point you can invest in a lighter, comfortable, more sensitive rod.

Heres what you need to do. Find some old wine corks, really any corks will do. Sand them down to a fine dust and mix the dust with a little bit of wood glue. Mix then apply to the craters. Let it fully dry then sand the excess cork/glue off. I've done it before with some cheap wal-mart rods and It came out very nice

IMO, unless your looking at broad ends of the spectrum, action has little to do with hooksets, and people get a little caught up in it. Obviously you want a moderate for cranks with a big sweeping hookset, but with everything else, the fish either hook themselves (Spinnerbaits, swimming lures) or you want a short, quick, hard hookset. With a F, XF, and maybe even a MF that shouldn't really be too big of an issue. I look at the action two ways: How am I going to cast/present this bait, and how am I going to work this bait. Lets say, big rattle traps, that I want to cast a long way and burn them back to the boat. I would opt for a Mod_Fast tip because it will really load up to launch the lure a looong way, but also when your burning it back and a fish smacks it, it will basically absorb the hit and set the hook. Or let's say your fishing weightless trick worms. You want a really fast tip that can load up with lighter weights, and your going to be working that bait back with small twitches. You want the tip to do that, not absorb the twitches like a slower tip might. Also, you want a to get to the backbone really fast to get the hookset, the XF will get to the backbone the fastest. I dont know if that made sense to you, but I hope it helped.

I was watching the ICAST coverage for the new lews BB1 and he said because the anti-reverse isn't infinite and has some play, that he can feel his crankbait better. I dont see how that works, that you can feel it better because of non instant anti reverse. Considering you feel your crankbait when you reel forward. Someone explain it to me?

I use the tungsten-carbide cutters on my P-Line Adaros, my SOG, or a lighter. I find myself going for the lighter just because it's easier and quicker, no matter the line type.

Simply put, no. Every year newer and better products hit the market. Does that mean I will stop buying the Powells I love? Nope, I love them! But i'm not going to limit myself to just Powells because I love them. I want to try out whats new, and exciting, and better. Just my opinion.

Avid 6'8" M/XF.

The Lexa 100 is 7.9 oz according to TW

I wonder If those handle's can fit some of my older, straight handle Daiwas.