.ghoti.

Diameter does have something to do with it; in that the thicker it is the longer it take to "saw" through it. A little extra material gives you a little more of what they call abrasion resistance.

Here is the place to look https://www.knifecenter.com/

A ringed bolster looks like it has a notch in it http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-boker-tree-brand-model-493-1807494538

Experience speaking, Scott?

here's the best advice I can give you http://rodbuilding.org/list.php?2

When we inherited the cabin on the local lake, we remodeled and repainted, put in a new floor and rebuilt the kitchen. I built my rod shop into one end, and decided to move all my tackle from the house and garage to the cabin. When the cabin insurance came up for renewal, I went to the agency, armed with pics of the collection and inquired about a rider to cover the rod building equipment and tackle. The owner of the agency said sure we can cover the rod building equipment, but how much fishing tackle do you have? Can't be that much. Ha! I started showing him the pics. He went from surprised, to amazed, to dumbfounded. I've heard people say you never have too much tackle. I can say, for myself, I have enough stuff to last me the rest of my life. Really. The only fishing gear I've bought in the last two years has been line. I had a spreadsheet listing the rods, reels and shop equipment. We guesstimated the value of the remaining tackle. The total surprised even me. The cost of the rider was very reasonable. I urge you, if you have a bunch of gear, to get it insured. Make a spreadsheet listing all your stuff, and sum it up. It may surprise you what you actually have invested. It may also surprise you how affordable a rider on your home owner's insurance can be. The peace of mind is well worth the time, effort and cost. Some of you may not want to share the spreadsheet with your significant other. Up to you. I showed mine to my wife. She looked, and said so what, I already knew you were crazy.

Nice. Let's see some pics when you get "em built.

Thsi has become the type of discussion that has no place here. all I will say about it is; NOT IN MY TOWN!

Don't have a bass room, but I do have a man cave, where I build rods. The only pic I have is a nice print of a northern my brother gave me. It's not on the wall yet.

Now thats funny right there.

I have two BFS setups. Six pound test on both. Invizx on one. Super Natural on the other.

fishnkamp, i do remember that seat. Now, that is. I'd forgotten them. I now know to what you're referring. My apologies to you, sir. I wonder why that type seat is no longer available. I the future, for your rebuilds, you may want to consider one of the Alps seats I posted links to. Their double locking nuts are secure. Very secure. Here's another idea for you. The same Aero seat you like, in an uplocking configuration, with a Fuji KDPS hood on the rear. Very comfortable. Ask Roadwarrior. It's his rod. Another one. Sorry for the out of focus pic. It's the best I have of that build.

Simple Green is all I use these days. Why use something toxic and flammable? Besides the inherent dangers, where do all these chemicals end up? I seriously doubt anybody cleaning their reels disposes of the used chemicals in an environmentally proper way. Simple Green is biodegradable, and does not stink up the joint. Rant over. I used to grease all bearings, except spool bearings, but no longer do so. I have over thirty reels of my own to service over the winter, plus the reels I do for other people. That's a lot of time. Getting a bearing full of grease clean is very time consuming, and I use an ultrasonic cleaner. I now use 90wt gear oil for all frame and handle bearings. Just as smooth as grease, easier to apply, and a lot easier to get cleaned out than grease. So, 90wt gear oil for frame and handle bearings. TSI321 for spool bearings, levelwind gear and pawl, and IAR bearing. Cal's or Shimano drag grease for drags and gears. The only exception is for the three spinning reels I use for winter trout fishing. I use Krytox grease for gears and drags in these reels. It's good down to -80 F. A synthetic fluorocarbon grease with PTFE additives. I got a small sample of this from a DuPont rep a few years ago. Had enough to do two reels. I bought more after one trial. I'm thinking about using this grease in all of my own reels. I bought a two ounce tube, and since it takes so little to do a reel, I may have enough to last me forever. Just my opinions. Feel free to disagree. You won't hurt my feelings.

The only Fuji seat I ever had a problem with loosened while fishing, which is a real pain in the membrane. After close inspection, I determined the seat had damaged threads, most likely from over tightening. A problem any of those cheap arse Fuji seats could fall victim to. You want an all aluminum real seat? http://www.anglersworkshop.com/ALPS-Seats/ALPS-All-Purpose-Aluminum-Trigger-Seats http://www.anglersworkshop.com/ALPS-Seats/Alps-Triangle-Reel-Seats Total overkill for bass fishing, in my opinion, but pretty cool looking. I'd use one for muskie, or stripers, or trophy catfish, etc. Dual locking nuts on these seats. http://www.anglersworkshop.com/ALPS-Seats/ALPS-MVT-Rapid-Spin-Toray-Spin-Seats http://www.anglersworkshop.com/ALPS-Seats/Textouch-Graphite-Reel-Seats http://www.anglersworkshop.com/ALPS-Seats/Alps-Double-Nut-Hoods-for-TexTouch-and-Split-Seats I've built rods with these. Very nice. no need to bash any company's rods. Don't like what you can find? Build your own

Winn grips are nice, but are NOT easy to work with.

A lot of folks are very interested in that Legend Glass rod. Post up your review when you can, please, and make some of them happy.

I use simple green, teethbreesh, and hot water for all reel cleaning. Alcohol is not a real effective solvent for grease. If you insist on using something toxic and flammable, lighter fluid naphtha is much batter than any alcohol.

The anti reverse bearing should never have had grease in it. Grease will cause that thing to rotate in reverse. Cold weather just makes it happen more often as the grease thickens, and does not allow the rollers to back up into the retainer slots in the race. since you got to keep the reel, do a deep clean. Get all of the grease out of the IAR bearing, and oil it, very lightly. I oil all of mine with the bearing fully assembled dry. Use a q-tip with a drop of light oil on it, and swipe it around in a forward rotatation, so the rollers spin while swiping. That will get enough oil where it needs to be without over-lubing. I'll bet this cures the problem.

I'm with you regarding the Sol. Love my Alphas. Didn't like the Sol. I had one for a short time. Sold it for what I paid for it, and never considered another.

Let's see; I have five Alphas, six Fuegos, four Zillions, a PX-R, an SS SV, a Viento and two Certates. I guess disqualifies me from the Shimano posse.

I regard any fish that can be caught with rod and reel a worthy opponent. Different fish, different tackle, different baits, different strategies, different challenges. Its all good. Why limit yourself to one species?

Closing the bail by hand will NOT prevent line twist. It will prevent formation of loose loops in the spool.

Two Tatulas, two Steez, a Light&Tough, and a TD-X. Cant say anything bad, I like all of them.

Mick, the next time you build yourself a casting rod, try a seat with the excess threads trimmed off; topped of with one of those foam arbor ramps you do so well. (It's on my list of things to try)

Most reel feet I've measured have been between 2 3/8 - 2 1/2". Measure all of your reels. Mount the one with the longest foot in the seat, and mark the threads where the locknut ends. Trim it one thread in front of that.