.ghoti.

old school, I'm shocked I tell you. Shocked.

Back when I was servicing a lot of reels, I only replaced a few arb's. Most failed for a lack of regular maintenance. A few were damaged by over tightening the drag. They are not hard to press out. Just takes a bench vise and a socket of the correct size.

To get a useful answer to your question, we will need more info. What reel? Is the spool filled all the way? what line, brand and pound test what rod? Length, power, action what bait? Weight? Answer those , and you will get some good info back.

Because I enjoy it.

Bravo, fissure_man, Bravo.

OK, some inappropriate posts are gone. Guys, this is a new member who likely has no idea how many times the Diawa vs Shimano topic has been debated. Give the man a chance. And some of you haven't been here long enough to be so snotty. Lighten up. Not Rick, spend some time browsing the forums. A lot of what you want to know has been discussed. Join one of the active threads with your comments and questions. Also, when asking questions, add some background info to help us give good answers. When you ask about specific equipment, tell us what you're going use it for. You will get much better info back when you focus your questions. Welcome aboard. You will find a lot of fine people here, and a lot of good info.

First, a reel produces no power. You do. The reels is a transmission. It "transmits" power, supplied by you, to whatever is at the end of your line. So the most common statement made, in this context, is buy a lower ratio reel because it has more power. Nonsense. you said "define power". OK, power is work over time. One horsepower = 33000 ft/lbs per minutes. Move 33000 pounds one foot, in one minute, and you have used one horsepower. Another way to look at it; if the force increases, the distance and time remain the same, horsepower is increased. If force and distance remain the same and speed decreases, power is reduced. To make this relate to the topic at hand, consider this. When you reel in a crank bait you are supplying power to move a bait a certain distance. The force part of the equation is the resistance of the bait plus some friction. That force applied over the distance is the work. Factor in the time it takes to get it all the way back, and you get the power required. if you retrieve the same bait the same distance in the same time, the required power output power from the reel is the same. Gear ratio has nothing to do with it. Now, let us look at input power; the part you supply by turning your crank. Using the same bait, moving the same distance, at the same speed. When using a 4:1 ratio reel, you will turn the crank X number of times. Using an 8:1 ratio reel you will turn the crank X/2 times, half as many revolutions. Each revolution requires you to move your hand a certain distance. The force required to turn the crank will be different. The 8:1 reel will require twice the force of the 4:1 reel. The 4:1 reel will move the bait half as far as the 8:1 reel. So, twice as many turns at half the force, versus half as much force at twice the turns, gives you an identical amount of work. The last piece of this puzzle, is then the speed. If you move the bait at the exact same speed with both reels, the power required is identical. Now, stop obsessing over it, use whatever reel you have, and go fish.

If? IF? If your aunt had balls, she'd be your uncle.

My power wrapper has a drier motor as well as a larger wrapping motor. I use that most times, but I have a separate dryer setup. Moving from wrapper to the separate dryer is no real problem. I grab the rod between the stripper and the seat. I have yet to screw up the epoxy doing this. I probably should not have said that.

I don't use a motor when applying epoxy. I do a much better job turning by hand.

This was an amazing game. The best SB I can recall.

For short roll casts, you'll want a short handle. Start at 8" from butt to the back of the reel seat. Dry fit the grip and seat with tape, them mount a reel and see how it feels. Then make it shorter. Repeat until you think it's too short. i have a butt grip, rear grip and reels seat that are over-sized ID. I use foam rubber inserts to allow fitting them to any size blank at any location. Without a setup like that you will have to start at a longer handle than you think you want, then test at that length. Them ream the grip out to move it further down the blank and test again. Lather, rinse, repeat.

I have a box of Booyah baits they sent me, that I can't wait to try out. Jigs, spinnerbaits, frogs, and lipless. All I can say now is they all look good. The water at my local lakes is frigid chocolate milk. Very cold, but not iced over, and extremely dirty. Lots of rain this winter.

That's my only use for braid.

Welcome home. It's been a while.

I like to cook, and do most of the cooing at our house. Almost all, now that I have become semi-retired. Most of what I cook comes out OK. Baking is something I've just started getting into.

I found that if I give the dryer chuck a twist in the right direction while flipping the switch, it will start in the preferred direction almost every time.

Brain damage? Dont think it would make much difference to those two morons.

I had one. It was a great casting reel until I took it apart. I had a guide on Lake of the Ozarks tell me he had never seen anybody throw a DD22 that far. The side plate was soft, and had to be pried off. It was never the same after that. If the one you have works, use it. Don't try to service it. Use it until it pukes.

Send a resume to any local community colleges. They are all looking for adjunct professors. No teaching degree required.

Looks like an ice fishing bait.

Uh, I'll take the Fifth on this one.

All three sizes of Rage craws, and chigger craws.

Another vote for the Gammy skipgap jighead, 1/8oz. I also use the Shaky2.

If I'm bass fishing, I will always have at least one rod with a T-rig.