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I don't fish beds. Not for any ethical reason. Don't wish to get into the "ethics" of the situation. There aren't any. If it's legal, it's legal. It it isn't legal, it isn't legal. End of story. I don't do it because the big fish on the bed is too hard to catch. The little fish on the bed are fairly easy to catch. I look for beds, in season, and then fish the closest drop into deep water for pre and post spawn fish. Both of which are easier to catch than bed fish. Sitting on a bed for an extended period of time, trying to catch a large fish I can see, and who can see me, is, for me an exercise in frustration.

I have two. And I'll take them any day over a Curado or a Tatula. No questions.

I have one, and have no problems with it. Wish they had been $200 when I bought mine. LOL. If I needed another reel, and I don't, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another, or two or three, at that price.

Microwave guides are the easiest guide train to set up for spinning rods. Just follow the dimensions in the package to place the stripper, reduction and first running guides. Use a static load test to place the remainder of the running guides. Order a couple of extra running guides. You may need them on a 7' rod. If static testing results require you to move the first running guide, move the reduction and stripper guides to maintain the spacing intervals between those three first guides. Oh, and do not get the tension too tight on the guide wraps. You will likely need to move them slightly to get them all aligned. If you can't move them, (using your thumbnail from one side or the other to move them around the blank) the thread is too tight. You can get the thread tight enough to cause the rod to break under load.

I use both U-40 and Tru Oil. Mick is right on the money about Tru Oil. It makes burl cork look better. Since I use different types of burl almost exclusively, I use Tru Oil almost all the time.

Seaguar sent me two spools of their new Rippin Mono to try; a spool of 10, and a spool of 12. I'm a mono user for everything but trout fishing. I use fluoro for trout. I use braid for emergency repairs. I despise braid for fishing. Ive used Trilene XL for years. When they "improved" it a couple of years back, I went on a quest to find a replacement, so I was happy to give this new line a shot. I spooled up one casting reel with 10, and another with 12, before driving south to visit Kent. The line is very smooth, round and clear, and seemed very supple while spooling. I treated it with KVD while spooling, and used it the next day. I use two knots for casting gear. Palomar and SD jam knots. Tied three of each, in both pound test line, and in every case, the line broke before the knot. Excellent knot strength for this line. Being very familiar with Trilene, I can say without a doubt, this new line has less stretch. It casts as well as the old Trilene, and has little better sensitivity. It is very limp in the water, maybe even better than the old Trilene, and that is exactly what I have been looking for. It is also much harder for me to see in the water. I have no idea if the fish can see it any less. (The next time you have a Bass agree to an interview, ask him what lines he can or can't see, then post his answers. I would be very interested to see what he had to say) Compared to my old favorite line, Rippin Mono has better knot strength, better sensitivity, less stretch, maybe a bit better slack line behavior, and less visibility in the water. I have finally found my new line. If you're a mono user, give this stuff a shot. You will be impressed. I'm impressed enough I have ordered enough of this line, in various strengths to fill up half of my casting reels, and will be using them all this year. If it performs all year like it has so far, I'll be sold, and will be using this line for almost everything. Available in 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, and 20 pound test, in 200 yard spools, for $11-$15. Not the cheapest mono out there, but it performs well enough to justify the price.

Seaguar sent me some their new Finesse Fluoro line to try. A spool of 5.2lb test, and a spool of 7.3. In talking with them, it was revealed that these are actual breaking strengths for these lines. Unlike say, Yozuri Hybrid, whose 6lb test line actually breaks at about 12 pounds. now for a disclaimer. I am not a fan of fluorocarbon line. The only use I have for it is trout fishing. I use 4lb test Invizx, on the extra spools of two spinning reels, and only use these for trout trips. Another disclaimer. I tried Tatsu twice. Kent gave me a couple of spools, so I filled two reels the night before one of our Bass Resource RoadTrips. I took four rods with me one day, fishing with Big O. Two with Tatsu, and two with Trilene XL. Tatsu frayed badly. The last 18" of line, the part that would come into contact with cover and or bottom composition, would last about 20 minutes before requiring retying. Trilene, fished in the same areas did not show any damage. After reporting this here, Seaguar sent me four new spools of Tatsu. Had the same issue. I gave those spools to Kent, and haven't used that line since. Seaguar calls Tatsu a double structure line, with an inner core of harder line encased in a softer outer core. I believe it was the softer, outer coating that was being damaged while I was using it. So, with more than a bit of skepticism, I tried the new Finesse Fluor, which is a similar, dual structure line. I primarily use casting gear for Bass fishing, but every now and then, spinning gear is required. I have two spinning combos tasked to bass fishing. An identical pair of Steez rods, with identical Daiwa 2004 size Certate reels. I spooled one of these with 7.3lb Finesse Fluoro, and took it along when I visited Kent last week. I tested some knots while still at home. Paloma, clinch and SD jam knots. I tied three of each and then broke them. The clinch knot broke at the knot all three times. The Palomar broke at the knot once, and the line broke twice. The line broke all three times with the SD jam knot. Pretty good performance for fluoro line. Excellent really, in my experience. So I spent about two hours fishing this line. I had some other stuff to test on this trip as well. The line casts well, and is fairly limp when using a slack line bait like a Ned rig, which was what I had tied on most of the time. Also used an unweighted fluke and a light shakeyhead. I drug this line over everything I could if find. Rocks weeds, brush, etc. I was pleasantly surprised to find no signs of the fraying which had disappointed me so badly when using Tatsu. Being a finesse line, it as only available in lower pound test ratings: 5.2, 6.2, 7.3 and 8.4. At 27 bucks for 150 yards, it is not a cheap line, but it's less than Tatsu, and outperforms in my experience. Ive ordered a spool of 8.4 to try on one of my finesse casting combos, and expect to like it for that as well as I like it for spinning gear. I'm saving the 5.2 for an upcoming White River trout expedition. I am impressed enough that I will be leaving the 7.3 line on one spinning combo, and will use it for this year, just to see how it performs long term. This is the first fluorocarbon line I have been impressed with.

A graphite rod will not take a set from being stored in a bent position. Bamboo, yes. Old fiberglass, yes. Graphite, no. And nothing you do will straighten it.

Very, very nice, Mick. That's epoxy on the cork, eh? Ive epoxied a few cork rings after staining them, and couldn't quite decide if I liked it or not. Seeing yours, I have to say I like it. How does it hold up over time? Hat's off to you for the charity build, and congrats for the top dollar bid.

MHX blanks are NOT old Loomis design blanks. The original series of MHX blanks were made to mimic the old Loomis line and lure ratings. Loomis had nothing to do with it.

She is easy on the eyes. But, how could you listen to her for more than five minutes, and not throw her overboard?

Hey Tom, I think we are comparing spinning reels in this thread.

The braid will not scratch the spool, not that it matters. The braid will slip on the spool without some backing.

I prefer them, for the recess ring design and for the lower price compared to Fuji.

Cheap tungsten? No, but I know where to get jumbo shrimp.

Too late. I have a lot more stuff than that, and I intend to use it all.

Like I said, I could tell no difference in the blank, before, or after, the cut. Blue did not feel it before the cut. His perception is simply his perception. I can say this is not your typical, whippy, noodle bending, ultra light rod. it is very crisp in response. That could be why, in his hands, it feels like heavier power rod than it's rating. Hogs, didn't take your question as argumentative. It's a valid question. Here's a thought. I think most people's experience with ultra light rods, mine included, is a 14.95 wally world stick, like a shakespeare, or zebco combo; and not with a premium graphite, high quality stick like this one. It's a night and day difference. A new feel, if you will.

Just watch a couple videos of people trying to eat this stuff. I'll pass, thank you very much.

Thanks for the kind words, gents. I only have one question. Blue asked me to wrap it to match his Supreme XT. No problem, says I. Since I'm color blind, that is sort of a problem, don't you think? I took my XT to Anglers Workshop and had the guys there pick out the thread. How did they do, Clayton? It looked OK to me, but what do I know? So, is it an ultra light, or a light, or even a ML? Beats me. I consider the designations basically meaningless. Batson calls that blank a UL, mod-fast. It's a mod-fast in my opinion. Feels a bit closer to light than UL to me, but again, that's my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions. I do know cutting four inches off the butt did not change it in any manner detectable by hand. Technically, after removing four inches from the butt, it is slower and has a little less lifting power. Well, you can't prove it by me. I could not tell the difference. I Clayton thinks it's a L/ML, I'm not gonna argue with his conclusion. We all have our own criteria we use to apply these designation, and we all can't be right, which means we all can't be wrong. You decide for yourself. Besides, the dude is bigger than me, and he carries a sidearm. I ain't arguing with him. Bottom lines is, if he likes it for what he's using it for, it's the right rod for the job.

Love bacon, but I hate to screw up the flavor of a prime piece of beef by wrapping it in bacon. A good steak needs nothing but salt, fresh ground pepper and searing heat.

You could get Eva craft foam to fill in the gaps. I would try carving out the holes where the missing chunks are to make it easier to fit new pieces. Use rubber cement to glue in the new pieces. That is the only thing I know of that will securely bind Eva. Sand to even it all out, then apply whatever wrapping you choose. I would most likely try some of the available shrink wrap grip material over Winn stuff. I have never tried this, so I can't give you exact step by step instructions.

A-Jay, if you have to cook inside, cast iron is the best. This does it one step better. https://www.amazon.com/Creuset-Enameled-Cast-Iron-4-Inch-Skillet/dp/B00004SBI7/ref=sr_1_13?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1487365506&sr=1-13&keywords=le-creuset&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A2242049011 If you try one these, and you should if you like winter time steaks, here are a few tips. Dont oil the pan. Get it HOT pat the meat completely dry dont do the one minute on each side thing. Flip it once only. leave on one side long enough to make char marks. Takes a little practice to get it right, but well worth the effort. do not apply pepper before putting the steak in the smoking hot pan. You wont be able to breath. it takes a while to get the pan seasoned. Never put it in a dishwasher. Don't wash it in soap and water. Scrub brush it with hot water, apply a very light coat of oil, and place on the burner long enough to dry. This speeds the seasoning process.

Just like Dorado does it, except no worchestershire, and I use hardwood charcoal, not briquettes.

I have to agree completely with spoonplugger. A mod-fast rod is a whole lot better for pitching and flipping than a fast action. And don't get me stared on x-fast action rods.

Its healed fairly well. Still gonna be a dent. Got one just like it on the other side pretty close to being symmetrically opposed. When somebody asks, I lower my voice and tell "em that's where they removed the horns.