.ghoti.

Contact Mike at Delaware Valley Tackle. He will take care of you nicely. If, for some reason, you and he can’t come to terms, email me.

Wow! That, boys and girls, is a real musician.

I have five stents. One is inside another one. That one took two cardio docs; one going through the femoral artery on each leg, five hours to complete. The other four took about 45 minutes each. I was awake for one procedure, and the doc angled a monitor so I could see the arteries, snd the catheters going through them. Way cool to observe.

My “app” says no fish will be biting in my living room.

And, if your aunt had balls, she’d be your uncle.

This one, probably. Not out of anything. Got more rods and reels than I use.

I prefer an old school version. A blender full of mixed dried peppers. Guajillo, ancho, pasilla peppers. Soak overnight( I've used water, beer or wine, Or a mix of water and beer or water and red wine). When peppers are fully rehydrated, blnd into a puree. Sauté a couple pounds of coarse ground chuck, a pound of chorizo, diced onion, smashed garlic, chopped Serrano peppers. Add pepper puree, oregano, cumin and cocoa and salt. Simmer until it smells too good to ignore. I do the sauté in a large wok, and simmer in a slow cooker. want to make it a little more old school, add a can of drained hominy.

Agree with Mike and Mick. A 7’ fast action rod built by me will typically have 9 guides. A 7’ moderate will typically have 8. The extra guide on the fast rod will be in the tip section. Or, to put it another way, the first 18-24” of the fast rod will have the guides a little closer together than the moderate rod. jimmyjoe, here’s how i do a static load test. I use a piece of fly line about 10’ long, and a piece of 20lb mono. I put the guides on the blank using small pieces of surgical tubing. Starting at the tip, the first few guides are placed about 4 or5 inches apart. I eyeball the rest, placing the stripper guide about 16” in front of the reel seat. I run the fly line through the guides, leaving about a foot extending from the tip. The fly line has 1/16oz weight glued to it. Just enough weight to keep the fly line under a bit of tension, Keeping it straight, but not enough to put any real load on the blank. I use fly line because it is a larger diameter, and is bright yellow, making it easier for my old eyes to see. The mono line is tied to the tip. Use the mono line to apply a load to the rod. Start by flexing only the tip section, then gradually increase the load the put more bend in the blank. Look at the fly line while doing this. Move the guides to make the fly line path match the curve of the blank. You will be moving guides in the tip section when the blank is under a light load. As load increases you will be working on guides further down the blank. Do not use the fly line to flex the blank; use the line tied to the tip. At this point i mount a reel ang go outside for some test casting. This is to get the stripper guides in the best location. If the stripper gets moved very far, i will repeat the static test. Hope this helps you, and does not scare you off. After you’ve done this a time or three, it gets easy.

The tip section of a fast action blank produce more flex in a shorter distance than slower action versions, requiring more guides in the tip section. Strictly speaking, a rod should have the fewest guides to perform at its best. Fewer guides, less thread and less epoxy, particularly in the tip area, will produce the most sensitive version of any blank.

Love Stevie

Haven't hunted in close to 50 years. Guess that answers that question.

I do believe I have heard enough of this. This thread is locked but left visible, as an example of how NOT to ask and answer a question.

So, you want somebody to obtain some copyrighted material, and just give it to you. Is that what You’re asking our members to do?

If you were a bass player, jaco changed the world.

Not a song. This is for j francho

It is best to leave them on the vine as long as possible. Using a banana to ripen them does work, but they will not be as tasty as vine ripened tomatoes. I read once, quite some time ago, the banana trick worked best if the tomatoes were not touching each other. That article recommended newspaper to keep them apart. I use a cardboard box, and place each tomato in a flat bottom coffee filter. Much easier than trying to keep them apart using newspaper. Arrange in the box with a banana. Close the box. Sealing it is not necessary. Take a peak every few days. The best bananas for this will be yellow, but still green on the ends. Bananas at that stage produce the most ethylene.

If you want, or need, the highest temperature, that will be closest to the hole where the steam exits the pot. The vapor will cool as it expands.

Well, wonder what adhesive was used on that. Never had the steam fail. Sometimes it takes a while.

The line size ratings are not about strength or lifting power. They based on the guide train. The guides on that rod will function well with mono up 14 and braid up to 30. The rod will not stand up to the force you can put on it with 30lb braid.

Menopause

The spinning rods I use for finesse bass fishing are both ML Diawa. I have two MXF Avids, which do not get used for finesse apps.

Yeah, I can’t claim I came up with the idea of mixing guide type. Saw a rod like that, and said to myself, self, you knucklehead, why didn’t you think of that? I use these recoil guides. They’re fly rod guides. $3.45 each I use the size 1. http://www.anglersworkshop.com/REC/RSF-Recoil-Titanium-Single-Foot-Snake-Guides I would not use these wrapped on top of the rod. It seems to me the potential exists for the line to get caught in the joint when reeling in under a load. Don’t know if that would happen. Never tried it. Just looked like a bad idea to me. No problem on a spinning rod nor on a spiral wrapped casting rod Looked up a quote I made to guy last year for a 7’6” spinning rod. Used Fuji guide sizing software to pick guide sizes for a KR concept guide setup. Alconite guide set = $28 Ti/ SiC Set = $97 Ti/Torzite set = $136 Alconite with the above mentioned recoil running guides = $32

When I choose guides for a build, I talk to my customer. I want to know what they want, what they expect, and what they will be doing with the finished rod. There are a lot of different answers to the question. For my own rods, I want the lightest guides set I can buy. I use Recoil guides for the upper part of the rod. Stripper guides and one or two more will usually be Fuji Alconites. The tiptop is also usually an Alconite. Titanium alloy frames will be lighter that steel frames. Enough lighter to justify the cost differential? Not in my opinion. what about ring material? You can look up the hardness specs. I know I spent a lot of time comparing guides specs. Go ahead and check it all out. You will learn something from it. The truth is, anything from aluminum oxide up, is fine. I did an experiment suggested by an experienced rod builder. Took an Alconite guide, and went at the ceramic ring with a file. Fingers got cramped up, so I got ahold of the guide frame with Vise grips. I eventually bent up the frame badly enough the ring popped out of the frame, but the file did no damage at all to the ring. NONE! I have built rods using SiC guides, and a couple with Torzites. Have heard several claim they would never use anything less. I have heard people claim SiC and Torzite guides will cast farther than lesser ring materials. That is a large steaming pile of what dropped out of the south end of a north-bound bull. The main difference between Alconite and SiC is durability. Drop a rod with SiC guides on your garage floor, and there is a very good chance one or more of those SiC rings will be cracked. Do the same with Alconites and there is a very good chance no rings will be damaged. SiC rings are a lot more brittle. As far as Torzite guides go, those are for the dude whose ego demands that his toys be the most expensive. Do not drink that flavor koolaid. Torzites are expensive, and possess no qualities justifying the cost. txchaser, if you are serious about a custom stick, get with Mike at DVT. He will take care of you.

Got a teapot? Get it boiling and whistling. Hold the tip in the steam whistle. The steam will be a little over 200°F. Blanks, when made, are oven cured at around 260°F. 200°F will not hurt the blank. A cig lighter can. i’ve used steam out of a teapot to remove numerous rod components, and have never damaged a blank doing so.