RoLo

Welcome to the forum "Wismallie", Hmmmm.....Wisconsin Smallmouth? Your suggestion takes me back to the late 1960s and to Al & Ron Lindner. I agree that "backreeling" is an open option, but after backreeling for a few months, I began to wonder why I paid top dollar for my rod and reel, and then decommission my equipment by being a human drag. There is an alternative that I use, and one that works very well when fighting a really good fish (e.g. PB). As the brute nears the boat (or bank), back-off some on the drag, because most fish break-off on a short line. The obvious downside is that you've got to remember to retighten the drag each time you chicken back. On the upside, you can use a heavy drag setting to quickly yank the slob from heavy cover, but then back-off on the drag as the big girl nears the boat. If she makes a boat-side lunge, even if she's lightly hooked or there's a nick in the line, you've seriously limited her ability to tear off. Roger

That is nice really nice! 8-) Good people - Good things Roger

Since you're open to "any" advice, I'd like to shift gears if I may. I've been fishing for quite some time now, and I have yet to buy a single lure based on any rod that I own. What I'm saying is, I always purchase my rods to suit my lures, rather than the other way around, because the lure is the tool that catches the fish. Just thought I'd run that past you, and good luck Roger

I'm currently using a "Lowrance X135", it's a superb unit. It's a 16-level grayscale featuring 480 x 480 pixel resolution with a maximum depth of 1,000 ft. It's not cheap unfortunately, and costs about $400 Roger

You're Right. I still it call it a "thermos" of hot coffee and not a "vacuum bottle" of hot coffee ;D Roger

As it happens, "Strong" and "Sensitive" and diametrically opposed properties. I sympathize with high-end rod manufacturers who strive to have both, but simply cannot (hence, lifetime warranties). Oddly enough, rods given to failure are some of the finest, most sensitive rods available. Glass composite rods like the Rhino and Ugly Stik are sadly lacking in sensitivity, but won't break in a Tractor-Pull. Even so, when you get serial breakage, then it's time to scan the field. Grabbing the rod anywhere above the rod grips is extremely stressful on the blank. Lifting the rod high up in the air and pulling for all your worth is equally stressful. I'm often guilty of doing just that, when I get angry with a snag > (Perhaps I need Anger Managment classes) Anyway, I get away with it, because in bad areas I'm usually holding an IM-6 stick (intermediate-modulus). Your All-Star rods probably have a higher tensile modulus than the rods I'm using. I tried many times, but I just can't break a Team Daiwa Light & Tough. Why? Because they use an IM-6 blank, the same as the GL3 Loomis. Roger

Having no experience with Okuma, I have no opinion. Three brands that I would recommend for saltwater exposure are Shimano, Daiwa and Penn. Most any model within these three brands is corrosion-resistant at the least, and some are corrosion-proof. If you want a reel you can "dunk" in saltwater, then you want a "Stradic MgFA". I own a Stradic MgFa but not because it's corrosion-proof, but because of its lighter weight. According to Shimano (vendor weights are inaccurate), the standard 2500 Stradic weighs 9.7 oz while the Stradic MgFA weighs 8.4 oz. That's a lot of money to knock-off just 1.3 oz, but it's coupled with an expensive high-modulus rod. Roger

Ryan, you're not totally blameless. We see and read the heading before anything else, and that sets the tone of the discussion. Geez, if you have a great day using Tiki Sticks, why ever would you call them Senkos, at the least, call them "Senko Knockoffs". Anyway, a stick worm is a stick worm, and real breaking news would be "any" stick worm that did not catch bass...lots of em Roger

I have only used the VMC Trailer Hook meant for spinnerbaits (extra-large eye & rubber keeper). All the same, VMC is a high quality hook and maybe I'm going out on a limb here, but I'd say that they're roughly equivalent in quality to the Mustad Ultra Point. Roger

That's the first time I ever seen that in print, but you make a moot point. It's very rare indeed that I'll ever need more than a 1/2 oz T-Rig Jig, but the proper lure must be properly presented. Okay, Here's The Deal: You are not trying to "rip" through weeds, on the contrary, you are allowing your lure to find its own path. This is done by pumping the rod slowly and gently, all the while giving the lure its own head. The lure I like best for mining dense vegees is the the "1/2 oz Owner Sled Head" which uses a 4/0 Owner hook. USAngler is the only vendor that I know. If you know of others, I'd be glad to hear about it. The screw-on retainer is a nuisance, but the trailer is not going to move. Common sense tells us that the most streamlined trailer (without appendages) will get down the farthest in dense vegetation. You also need tough, slippery plastic (forget about the Senko). My favorite by far, which my wife & I call our weed probe, is the "Gambler 5" Flapp'n Tail Worm". I prefer a Black paddletail worm, because its very dark down there, even on a sunny day. Roger

I'm totally confused. Are you fellows trying to suggest that I may have fabricated that testimonial? Roger

Losing a fish is one thing, but line-breakage is quite another thing. I would reiterate what Roadwarrior has written. After that, there is really no way a fish can break the line, unless it was frayed or nicked (typically "before" the battle). A good habit is to periodically run your fingers over the last few feet of line. Frays and nicks are usually easy to feel (time to cut and retie). Roger

Wow, that's quite a testimonial Randall. I've never owned a Falcon rod, but now you've piqued my interest. Roger

When you say "tail" are you referring to a ribbontail? Roger

Well naturally, I was a little skeptical at first, but after sending my first installment of $99.99 I received your tutorial. I was truly impressed by your detailed crayon sketches showing how to remove a treble hook from your buddy's hat, in the section, "Watch Your Backcast". I was also taken aback by your personal touch, everything handwritten in pencil. As though that weren't enough, I cannot thank you enough for my Roland Martin Code Ring! 8-) One Happy Camper!

Largemouth bass and weeds go together like smallmouth bass and rocks. As long as you stick to the weedbeds, you're fishing in the high-percentage area. Bass may be found along the weed-line, above the weed-bed and deep inside the weeds. Bass that make a habit of living deep within dense vegetation stand the best chance of reaching a ripe old age. When you fish the heaviest weeds you can find it's like fishing in a private lake within a public lake. Roger

I thought about your question, but I honestly can't say that any hollow frog has a better hookup ratio than the others. I honestly believe that your hookup ratio depends more on "bass disposition" than anything else. For example, we've all been in topwater bites when we practically batted 1000, hooking up on any surface lure we throw. Hah, but there'll be just as many days when bass will drive us insane with short strikes and sloppy hits, days when we and our best topwater producers eat humble pie. Regardless of the hollow frog being used, these 3 things will definitely enhance your hookup ratio: > 40-lb PowerPro braid > Delayed Hookset > Actively Aggressive Bass (by far the most important, but unfortunately the only one we can't control) Roger

I hesitated to mention the Ugly Otter, only because it doesn't remind me of a crayfish (as if that makes any difference). I'm not sure who likes the Ugly Otter more, the bass or me ;D Roger

I see, so it's a contraction for "Condensation Trail" Thanks George, that makes sense.

I'm not aware of a more realistic plastic crayfish than the "Yum Crawbug" (the big one, not the mini). All the same, my most productive plastic craw has been the "Zoom Big Critter Craw". Though I have a drawer full of pumpkin with chartreuse tail, every color works well. I fish them with a Gamee super line and bullet sinker (no jig). Roger

For me it's closer to 2 years, and remarkably there are no withdrawal symptoms ;D Roger

In your logo, I noticed that you are an airline pilot by profession. Okay, I give up, what is a "jet contrail" (don't say the opposite of a jet protrail) Roger

Bass are fairly tolerant of brackish water provided the PH isn't too acidic. The bass in Currituck Sound and Backbay are less than a mile from the ocean, but the nearest inlet is MANY miles away and the water is only slightly brackish. If you're not averse to changing targets, Chain Pickerel flourish exceedingly well in brackish, high-acid streams and backwaters along the Atlantic coastal plain. Roger

Generally speaking, drawdowns are very healthy for a lake and normally make it easier to catch fish. Drawdowns kill-off invasive vegetation along the shoreline and firm-up the bottom for more beneficial plants. Are you sure the prevalent plant was "coontail"? Coontail is not rooted in the bottom, and when pool levels are lowered, dense mats of coontail typically end-up in the last vestiges of water. Roger

In the situation you described, you'd be better off using a "T-rig jig" (Luck-E-Strike - Owner - Jobee). But if you're set on using a skirted jig with a weedguard, than I'd suggest a "swim jig" but instead of swimming the jig, retrieve it in your usual fashion. Outkast Swim Jig Roger