RoLo

The best lure to use on a sunny day would depend on the water depth you're fishing, which I find very similar to a cloudy day. When predatory fish are actively feeding, they generally prefer water in the "twilight" zone (neither too bright nor too dark). During high noon on a hot sunny day, bass have a choice between two sources of "twilight" (half-light): 1. Sink to a depth that filters enough sunlight to create a half-light zone (In this way they may create dusk-like lighting at high noon). As nifty as that might sound, if adequate depth isn't IMMEDIATELY available, I believe that bass are more inclined to use Option 2 2. Remain at the same depth but move tight to cover (lily pads, stumps, bulrushes, under docks, etc). The wedge of shade cast by an object produces a satisfactory twilight zone for bass of all sizes. Although most Florida trophies are taken during the prespawn, some of the best bass are taken during hot sunny midsummer days. What's more, they're usually taken around midday from shallow water between 1 and 5 ft deep. Why so shallow? Because most of Florida's lakes are natural, and that's where the cover and shade is typically most abundant. (In an impoundment, bass might be found in 15-foot of water alongside standing timber, but only in a reservoir situation.) As long as adequate dissolved oxygen is present (5 ppm+), bass are as happy as clams in 90-degree water. Before Hurricane Charley the bass in my home lake were found "year-round" in 8.5 feet of water (the depth of best weed growth). The hurricanes tore out the hydrilla beds and now those same bass are scattered in shoreline cover from 1- 5 ft deep, "year-round". Roger

I make four changes to every jig before I ever get it wet. I usually modify my jigs at home in my living room. Below are notes I wrote to myself (copied and pasted): JIG MODIFICATIONS 1. SHORTEN SKIRT Benefit> Enhances skirt action <> Exposes more of trailer Process> Hold jig by the head with the skirt hanging vertically down. With pair of scissors, trim the skirt 1/2 below bend-of-hook. 2. SHORTEN FIBERGUARD Benefit> Prevents bristles from clashing with hook-point, which may interfere with hook-set. Process> To eliminate bristle interference, trim weedguard fibers until they just miss the hook-point. 3. ADJUST WEEDGUARD TENSION Benefit> Too little tension degrades weedlessness of lure <> Too much tension dilutes the hook-set force Process> To relieve excess pressure start by removing about 20% of the bristles, by cutting the fibers flush to the jighead. Remove more bristles as necessary until the tension is to your liking. 4. FAN-OUT FIBERGUARD Benefit> Fanning out the bristles increases the lateral coverage of the weedguard by reducing the possibility of side-entering snags and gives lure a nice bump-off action. Process> Grasp the weedguard between the thumbs and forefingers of both hands, holding about half the bristles in each hand. Now splay the bristles forcefully outward and down to form the broadest fan. Don't worry about over-bending the fibers, because after 5 or 10 mins the fan shrinks down. Normally the fanning process will need to be repeated a couple times until the fan remains about 1/2 inch wide (check in 10 mins). An open V-gap between the halves is okay, all the same, I feel more comfortable with evenly distributed bristles. Roger

That's a no-brainer. "Symetre 2500 front-drag", the best value in the Shimano house. Roger

The plastic worm can be fished at all depths, but more importantly it's a "true" year-round lure that's effective in a uniquely wide temperature range. BTW: Not all toads sink, for example the Sizmic Toad floats with a 4/0 hook. Roger

Dingy water with 2 to 3 ft visibility Roger

I never thought I'd see the word "fluorocarbon" in the same paragraph as the word "limp". You know, like "Rosie O'Donnell" and "Feminine" ;D just kidding ;D Roger

When I cut my teeth on fishing (early stone-age), nearly every fishing book listed hook-sizes according to the species of fish sought, because live bait was far-and-away the most popular lure. Today however, the angling community is embroiled in a soft-plastic revolution, where "lure size" plays the major role in determining the best hook-size. It's not the length that matters, but the "thickness" of the plastic that occupies the hook throat. A worm is a slender plastic lure, where 2/0 and 3/0 are arguably the most appropriate sizes. Worms aside though, and to answer the question: "good overall hook-size" I'd definitely go wth 4/0. I use more 4/0 Gamakatsu Super Line Z-bend hooks than all other sizes combined. Too, the size and thickness of the hook is an important component of the overall "weight equation". CAVEAT> You can't change hook-size without changing the fall rate and behavior of the lure. Roger

In order to produce full pigmentation, the fish most receive full sunlight. On balance, the greater the amount of sunlight (clearer and shallower the water) the deeper the colors of the fish. Muddy water comes-and-goes, but bass that spend a lot of time in perennially murky water typically have a pale, washed-out appearance (silvery). Bass from shallow, gin clear water normally have a darker lateral line and a dark-green back. Years back I took a home course from the Northwestern School of Taxidermy. You learn a lot when you've got to paint back the colors (ran a mini business on the side). Bass from clear shallow water generally needed more "terra verde" on their upper parts, which is Spanish for "earth green", the color usually used for painting a true "mossback" bass. The median line of most mossbacks that came from clear/shallow water was almost black. (Lastly, a top coat of transparent Pearlescence is added for depth). Roger

I'm not a Yamafan by any means, but the Flappin Hog is definitely one good-looking soft-plastic. Brad, wasn't that the bait you once pictured in your logo? (that was the first time I ever seen it). Roger

HOLY COW! What an impressive arsenal bshaner. I wish you the best of luck with those puppies. Arched Rods, Roger

I was just kidding of course, but you make a good point, that never occured to me (0.18% turnout) Roger

Ah Cumon, live on the edge! We only need ONE more Shimano vote

There are several ways to successfully fish the cane toad, but you might try this: Simply retrieve the toad "slowly" at a "constant" rate...that's all she wrote. Crank the toad at the slowest speed that keeps it on top and keeps the lobbed feet active. At this provocatively slow speed, the horny toad would be heading for Davy Jones Locker. Once you find the right stride for the cane toad, maintain a constant speed to make it easier for bass to home in. If there's any topwater bite at all going on, you're going to get following bulges, V-wakes and unexpected blow-ups. That failing, try burning her in like a soft buzzbait, only the cane toad will be more weedless and more mouthable than a prop buzzer PS: Keep the toad always in the slop Roger

On certain lakes, I take along my Extra-Heavy Rod with 80-lb PowerPro Line

If you scrutinize the area real well with your electronics, you will notice that suspended schools of bass "always" relate to baitfish &/or bottom contour (e.g. drop-offs), which is the reason why they chose that spot. Nevertheless, bass (like people) do not eat all day long. When bass are tightly schooled they have no choice but to employ gangland tactics because loner ambushing is not even possible. When bass get too big to chase shad in open water they will not join a school (normally ranked in year-class). Schoolies are typically small bass, though an occasional large bass may lie beneath the school, but don't count on it. Unlike fish with teeth, bass swallow their meal whole, so there's little or nothing for trophy bass to glom (no falling debris). The schoolies wait patiently, but not for your lure or mine, but for baitfish in the area to get sloppy and amble into easy striking distance. This of course triggers a feeding frenzy, what we call a "blitz" in saltwater. These bonanzas are generally short-lived, so slowpokes need not apply. Most of the boats will chase after the baitfish, but the schoolies normally regroup in their original lair, waiting to ball-up the next clumsy school of bait in the exact same spot. Roger

The Sheriff will be along, pronto Shimano

Do you use other's brush piles? Not while they're watching

It's funny, but I can relate to your opinion of Rick Murphy (too much time on the water?) Then of course there's "Mark Sosin", a highly knowledgeable, tough ole salt that's been around a looong time Roger

Sorry, but I realized in retrospect that I drifted off-topic, by not sticking to bass lost during the "JUMP". Three thoughts quickly jump into my head (no pun intended): 1. I love it to death when bass jump, and feel kind of cheated when they don't 2. I've lost some of my best fish during the jump, so I won't deny that my blood-pressure skyrockets every time they do. 3. I've yet to find a surefire method that prevents bass from jumping, that are bent on jumping (especially smallmouth bass) Bass don't jump for enjoyment, but instinctively know that they can generate greater head-shaking speed in the air than they could ever hope to achieve underwater. If the hook has torn a keyhole slot, and the bass takes to the air Hmm well...even with a tight line, that might save you the bother of having to weigh and release the fish As an aside, have you ever noticed the difference in the jump speed between a largemouth and smallmouth bass? (not even close) The head of the bigmouth pushes above the surface almost in slow motion, then he'll stand on that broad tail while rattling his gills:o Roger

Without uttering a single word, Senile1 has generated 16 Replies! I find the underlying implications to be a little unsettling, to say the least. The next time you post a message that generates less than 16 replies, you now know that your response would've been stronger if you never uttered a single word Edward is one shrewd fellow Roger

In the saltwater court I've been watching Jose grow old Which reminds me, what happened to the mogan man, Blair Wiggins (addictive fishing)?

If PowerPro is junk, then I don't know great line from junk Roger

The shaky head may be used over any bottom whatsoever, but like any jig (even a football) it will hang up in chunk rock. The main thing is to choose a jig with a spherical head (at least the forward hemisphere). Roger

Good for you! Getting down-and-dirty makes any sport more interesting and more rewarding. When I used to hunt deer with bow-and-arrow, you had to resharpen the broadhead arrow every time the arrow is fired. I'd be ashamed to admit how long it took to sharpen each three-bladed broadhead : Roger

Very nice review Avid. It was certainly kind of Roadwarrior to donate his high-end reel, but RW's generosity is no surprise to anyone. I'm glad that you had written that review and not me, because I'm torn between the two brands. Though I prefer Shimano for freshwater use, I lean to Daiwa (Penn & Newell) for saltwater use. Your Cadillac vs. BMW analogy is very interesting; I wouldn't have thought of that, but it's Right On! Roger