zachb34

WRB nailed it. The only thing I'll add is, that on sunny days I like some red flake in my baits not so much to gain attention but I feel like it may look like blood from an injury or something to that effect.

If you want to get technical, yes water temps will make the plastic stiffer or softer, and also make the water more dense or less dense at the same time. This may actually be more of an effect on a 3" worm that as previously stated, has very little plastic to wiggle. When water temps drop, the density will increase, and to an extent make it harder to move. The senko wiggle more comes from the bait itself. It needs to be soft enough to wiggle, yet stiff enough for the bait to have a recoil to the original movement it sees from gravity. Once the bait hits the water it has to use gravity to cause movement and wiggle unless you give it another force from say your rod. So I guess to stay on topic I would say it's just an inconsistency in that particular worm or pack.

If you want to get technical, yes water temps will make the plastic stiffer or softer, and also make the water more dense or less dense at the same time. This may actually be more of an effect on a 3" worm that as previously stated, has very little plastic to wiggle. When water temps drop, the density will increase, and to an extent make it harder to move. The senko wiggle more comes from the bait itself. It needs to be soft enough to wiggle, yet stiff enough for the bait to have a recoil to the original movement it sees from gravity. Once the bait hits the water it has to use gravity to cause movement and wiggle unless you give it another force from say your rod. So I guess to stay on topic I would say it's just an inconsistency in that particular worm or pack.

These baits are getting really popular here in South florida. People use then for snook and bass. I have no experience with them though.

I've never thrown a 3" senko just the 5", but there's not much to wiggle on 3". I have gotten a few packs of Yamamoto where some colors have a different formula of plastic that doesn't move the same. Not sure of the particular color code but it was a watermelon with purple flake. I know from when I used to make plastics, different colors can have different plastic formula and therefor may act different under the water.

A local FWC officer explained it to me like this,"you can row a U.S Navy battle ship with no registration, but if you put a trolling motor on a log, you need to get registration".

Highly biased opinion here, but I'll share anyway. I currently own 8 shimano baitcasters and no other brands. I have owned 1 tournament speed spool along with a tournament pro. The Tournament Pro was a lemon. I posted about it on this forum maybe 2 and a half years ago. Whenever I would make a cast, more centrifugal brakes would engage, and I couldn't make a far cast at all. I eventually had to return it since I would need a new spool and bought it new off ebay with no warranty. I own 2 curado 200iHG reels now, and they're solid. Occasional oil to brakes and they will hang with the best of them (this is the usual cause of the squeak from the SVS infinity).

I keep mine in a waterproof Plano, in a zip lock bag along with my air horn, tool kit, etc so I have no excuse to forget it.

Florida five oh. It has black for the darker waters and watermelon for the more clear water. The red flakes really pop in the sunlight.

You should be able to find that on your states DMV website. Don't believe what people tell you the common misconception here is that if it's electric or 9.9 HP or lower, you don't need to register it. That's false. Anything with a motor in florida needs registration on public water. The specific info is irrelevant to you, but don't just listen to what people around you say. Ask the DMV.

I tried it and didn't do too well. However swimming that C-rig with a Big EZ or fishing it like a jerkbait on a light C-rig gave it a really cool action. I was fishing in very unproductive waters to begin with so I decided to play around with it.

Soon we will be debating Snap-on, Craftsman, Mac, etc for our bass fishing.

The pawl is simply there as a back up in case your anti reverse bearing goes out. I would say in bass fishing it's very unlikely to be needed. Some of these reels get used on salt and supposedly on a big pull it can do some damage to that bearing.

If I could do it all over again, it wouldn't necessarily be the quality I changed. It would be the deals I hopped on and the ones I didnt. I think it's fun hunting for deals and waiting for the perfect price. A lot of my gear I've gotten for next to nothing on some for sale sites, garage sales, pawn shops. Etc. Some of it I've been able to use for a few years and then either break even or even make a little money on. I pay attention to resale values now a lot. I buy either heavily discounted new gear, or slightly used gear. All my reels are shimano's and tags my preference performance wise. The nice part about that is most hold their value very well. I've also noticed the 5:1 and 7:1 gear ratios hold their value better than the in between 6:1 ratios. I guess if money ever got tight I could sell off my gear for what I paid for it and I still got years of enjoyment.

Depends where you are. Florida they can start as early as November and go on into March spawning more than once.

I have one of them too. Also really light just like the bucoo. I have the 6'9" and what makes it shorter is the smaller rear grip. I think it's a better jerkbait rod which is what I use it for. Casting with two hands bothers my bottom hand on a hard cast. Totally different specs than my bucoo but I got it for $20 so I can't complain.

I've said it earlier, but just to get an idea, I've had mine for 4 years. Sunday it's going to the shop to get a guide replaced for the 7th time. If this thing wasn't such a sweet rod other wise, it would be given away. To anyone looking at one, get the regular guides.

The "trap caster" is one heck of a rod. Its light sensitive and obviously excels with lipless baits. My only issue with the bucoo's are the micro guides are way too fragile. I don't beat my gear, but the slightest bump from another rod and I need a new guide. It is 4 years old though.

This should probably be considered a given, but a guy I used to fish with had one major rule. Don't step on the seats. Some guys also won't want you casting over the center line of the boat.

The fish in my avatar was caught on the same exact bait right down to the color. They flat out work. Too bad it was the only one of the day.

I've never had a lews or daiwa open, but I would assume it's unlikely it's coming from inside the reel. In my experiences the squeak is usually always a contact point from the spool or the worm gear/levelwind. Take the spool out and reel. If it stops making noise you know it has to do with the spool or the bearings it makes contact with.

Good stuff. I'd really advice against cutting into the bass tender though. Mine already has a slightly flex floor and I don't see the need with 4 storage compartments already. Unless your boat has the same rear as mine I'd cut into those no problem.

Please post a review of the gravity 2 line once you get a chance to use it. I'm curious to see if it'll have any better slack line sensitivity. In theory if it sinks ot should have less slack line to start and of its denser it should have more similiar slack line sensitivity to floro. Being a little more resistant to wind would be nice as well.

I wouldn't paint unless yours really needs it I had mine for about 6 months amd the corners where the plastic bended started to chip a little but for the most part it held up pretty well.

The first picture is the "before" its how I got the boat after washing it for hours. Then we painted it. I got the paint from WalMart its a specific paint for plastic by Krylon ( I think it's called fusion). We sanded the boat real good with scotch Brite pads, and made sure it was completely clean with a little bit of a rough surface. I think we did 3 coats total of about 10 or 12 cans. They make stuff thays supposed to help bond paint and plastic but I didn't use it. It was held together by staples so we undid those to replace some rotted out foam. To get it back together we just put in new staples and a coat of 3m marine sealant (5200 I think) I bought a new rub rail and heated it up in the over to get it to bend to the boats shape. After we clamped it and it had cooled off we riveted it down to the edge that was stapled and sealed. I cut two holes in the back from storage and hollowed out the foam. I used one for tackle and one for a battery. I built the deck with 3/4 plywood and sealed it up, cut my holes, and added the carpet. Underneathe i made a frame to support the deck with 1x3's it was just bolted, nit screwed to the edges since i had cut the holes in the plastic already for storage. We used big washers to disperse the force from yhe bolts on the plastic. We fished the wiring through the full of the boat from the batter compartment to the middle bench where I mounted the depth finder. And then from the battery out the back and to the bottom of the transom for the transducer. These boats on one side or the other have a boxy looking indentation which is where the plastic is supported by wood on the other side for your transducer. Painting wasn't too had but you have to take your time male sure it's completely clean and to have ideal conditions of you don't have a paint booth. The last picture was my Basstender 11.3. It was my favorite boat I've ever had but I kept it stock since I sold it to help pay for my first Jeep.