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I'd like a rod to do double duty: Topwater - Sammy 85-100 & Spook Jrs AND Jerkbait - Flash Pointers 90 - 100 the clarus is on sale for $50, but I can get the crucial for around $90 Which one of the two? I've been throwing spinning gear for jerkbaits in the past and have been pleased, but I'm looking for a better topwater rod that I'd want to use for jerkbaits as well. Thanks.

I don't want to spend more than $300, so I'm looking at these jackets/parkas: - Cabelas Guidewear Goretex xtreme Parka (uninsulated but with nylon lining) - Cabelas Guidewear Goretex Bass Angler Jacket (uninsulated without interior nylon-lining) - Bass Pro Shops 100 mph Goretex Rain Parka (uninsulated but with nylon lining) - Frabill F4 Cyclone Rainsuit Jacket (not sure about the interior) I've been using the Cabela's EXV Goretex Jacket and have been very pleased, but the jacket is getting old and the zipper is a pain. I'm worried the Cabelas Xtreme parka might be a little too heavy and it doesn't have a closable velcro flap to cover the face when making a run (zipping it all the way up has always been a pain with my current cabelas exv jacket). I'm worried the the Cabelas Bass Angler Jacket without any liner is mainly a summer jacket and won't hold up as a shell for xtreme cold wind in the winter (am I crazy thinking the missing nylon serves as an extra layer of protection from the elements?) I've never had the opportunity to put on a Bass Pros parka (not close to a BPS). Is it guaranteed for life similar to Cabela's Goretex gear?) I know nothing about the Frabill C4 Cyclone other than the really cool features for anglers. It is NOT Goretex, so is whatever they use just as reliable as Goretex? Is there a nylon-liner for easy on/off? Anybody with any experience with these specific jackets? I would love to get some replies on my concerns. Thanks.

Went with 766 dobyns flip. I have the softer crucial for mainly edges if needed. Maybe the Dx 795 is next !

Thanks...Used is not out of the question, but even used GLX AND NRX are out of my range of $200-250. But the Dobyns Champ and Mossyback or IMX are comparable in price. Used Mossybacks are almost always around $200. I can get a new Dobyns Champ 766c for $215. But having never fished a Dobyns - I need to know if I should go with a 5 or a 6? I have a gloomis shakeyhead spinning rod, but besides that never fished a casting loomis. However, I'm pretty sure a 4 power is what I need

I currently own a 76mhxf crucial split cork and a 711hxf crucial split cork as my pitching and flipping set-ups. I like the 7'6" length and want to upgrade. The tip of my 76mhxf is too soft. I'm looking real hard at a Dobyns Champion 766c or 765c flip or a Gloomis Mossyback, IMX, (don't think I can afford a GLX) 894 BCFR I fish Candewood lake in Connecticut often - deep grass - thick milfoil I like pitching 3/4 - 1 oz t-rig beavers, creatures, etc... 50 # Braid Do the Dobyns rods have less power? Meaning is a power rating of 5 comparable to a Loomis power rating of 4? Which rod would you recommend? of the 4 rods mentioned? Dobyns 765 766 or Loomis 894 Mossyback or IMX?

Having second thoughts about keeping the 734c for throwing heavy 1/2 ounce jighead 4.8 keitechs (swing impact fat ) in deep water

What about a used st croix 7'3" heavy legend tournament big jig rod? My last few rods have all been used - I wanted to buy new just for warranty , but I might not need it

Don't have the $ for the Dx right now. Unless I try to find one used. But sensitivity is pretty important. Is a receipt needed in the 'hassle-free' 60 dollar charge?

Already ordered a 734 and am sending it back to exchange it for a 735c savvy. I looked at them. There are so many choices

Two great replies. Thanks guys. Exactly what I was looking for. One last question on the return policy... Does the $60 hassle-free include shipping at least one way (back to me) or perhaps both?

Dobyns savvy ssm734c or ssm735c for 1/2-3/4 ounce football jigs, Carolina-rig, deep Texas-rig 3/8-3/4 ounce, hollowed-body and swimming frogs/toads? I've heard the action is not entirely accurate and that the 4 or heavy power is really like a 3 medium heavy, etc. Also, I read it's not super sensitive? I would listen to some other comparable rods in this price range. ($150-$200). Thanks.

I haven't used an 8 strand yet. I just want durability and cast ability in a 15 pound test diameter range. Sx1 - have tried and had some issues on thinner 12lb test - but that could have been my fault.

I'm looking at Seaguar's Smackdown Tournament Braid - 15# test for Wacky-rig, weightless, shakeyhead. I really like Sufix Performance, but they don't offer 15 # test in performance. The 20# is tough to cast far. I love the durability, though. Any suggestions for a finesse braid with pound test between 15 and 20? Anybody use 18# braid for any of those techniques? Toray and Daiwa have it, I guess?

It's probably all in the foam now

Thanks. I'll check with a parts store.

Bought an Exide stowaway deep cycle marine battery Yesterday at tractor supply and put it on my backseat in my truck. It tipped on its side and leaked some liquid onto my cloth seats. The seats are pretty saturated in 2 small areas. The model number of the battery is 27MDCST. What is that liquid??? How should I get it out of my cloth and foam seat? And is my battery ruined? Pretty dumb move on my part - I know.

Thanks, Ice. I watched a youtube clip about these clips, and they look like they would help my problem. Few questions for any user of these clips: 1. If I choose not to use a bullet weight, will the extra gap in front snag weeds? 2. Do they cause any impact/hindrance on the terminal knot or line? 3. Do they impede any action of the bait? I would mainly be using these clips with a Texposed, weightless 5 in senko and a zoom regular size fluke. The skipping and/or swing-and-miss hook sets cause the senko to slip down, the harder jerks using braid to fluoro leader on my fluke spinning set-up causes that fluke to slip.

Thanks. Sounds like a good idea... Whenever I try to skip the senko or jerk too hard with the fluke, it's down past the off-set bend and worthless for that cast. I'm a co-angler and like to use the same exact set-up for the senko and fluke to save rod space out of the back of the boat.

I know this is a common problem, but I was wondering if anyone had any useful tips for keeping a senko AND fluke from slipping down the hook. I've tried all different types of hooks only to find that the hook I like the most (owner 3/0 "J" hook) still does not solve the slip problem. I've tried the skip-gap, g-lock and old style Mustad KVD grip-pin - I don't like them. I might give the newer mustad grip-pins a try, but HOOKS ASIDE, any useful tips, besides a dab of superglue? With the frequency in which I'm switching or adding new plastics out on the water - it's not ideal. Thanks.

Didn't break off at the leader once using the Alberto knot. Thanks for the helpful advice. Now for a new knot besides the Palomar

Thanks janderson

Wow. Awesome replies while I was away from the forum. Thanks michang5. I'm super meticulous when it comes to tying my knots - always wetting with saliva as well. I'll try the new knots and hope to not lose at the leader as much. I like using 12lb Sunline sx1 braid and 8lb Sunline sniper FC. I don't think it's a poor line issue - and I'm going to have to figure this out through trial and error. I wanted to check in here hoping that I wasn't the only one, so I'm glad to hear at least one other with this issue. Also, I was hoping to get a little advice to give me a head start in figuring out what to do. The difference in sensitivity compared to straight FC is worth the extra effort in fixing this.

Let me be more clear. Everybody gets hung up on the bottom (snagged, whatever). I should not have used the term break-off (referring to losing a fish due to line/knot/terminal failures). That's my fault. I want to avoid snapping my line at the leader knot when I do get snagged on the bottom and can't get the lure back. I wish to snap my line at the terminal/lure knot instead of the leader knot. I don't care if you call it a symptom, problem, situation or whatever. I'm asking for advice for treating these symptoms, solving these problems, addressing the situation, or whatever.

When I am hung up on the bottom and have to break off. I'm not talking about when I have a fish on.

Thanks, Tom. I agree with the Bob Sands knot being difficult to tie on the water. To me, any leader knot is difficult to tie on the water on tournament days. If I have to, I have to, but I'd like to avoid it. I'm using Sunline Reaction FC 8 lb as my Fluoro leader. If I run out of Sunline, I use 8lb Pline 100 % Ultimate FC. My problem has happened to me on both brands of 8lb FC. I pretty sure I'm tying the Bob Sands main line to leader knot correctly - it's extremely strong and hard to break by hand. Plus, I really like the thin profile of the Bob Sands. I heard it is also good for tying two lines together of different diameter. The palomar knot is rated at 15.11 breaking strength by Knot Wars (using Fluoro 15lb test). It's supposedly stronger with lesser diameter as well (like 8lb as opposed to 15lb + where it is not recommended). The most common lure that I'm using on this spinning set-up is a shakeyhead, drop-shot, finesse jig or tube. I really want to avoid using a snap because that would defeat the many purposes of using the FC leader.